You don't tighten them -- or loosen them -- in a clockwise pattern. Always use a rotating crossover pattern. And my point was that you don't loosen any of the bolts past cracking them until you've been able to crack them all.

 

At this point, get the easy offs. The rounded corners will not matter. Get a good breaker bar and about three foot of pipe to slip over breaker bar. It will break loose, or else break the easy off if not sufficiently robust and good quality.

 

6 point IMPACT socket is the only way to go, they don't stretch and break. I cracked a couple regular/standard 6 point sockets which caused a smashed finger nail doing this job before I wisen'd up. lol. You may need to beat on a size smaller metric socket if your bolt head is rounded too badly. idk..

 

Did you get the bolt out??

 

I did acquire the easy off sockets. However the ones I got must have been cheap as they themselves wore down inside and then just rounded the bolt to a perfect circle.

Here’s what I did. I tapped the socket on to the bolt head, 1/2 breaker bar with another 2ft pipe section. Had a friend ensure the socket stayed as tight onto the bolt head as possible but it still slipped. After a few more attempts at this, I then resorted to my impact drill, and that was it. There was no more I could have done.

So I took the block and hauled it to my local mechanic, who had the same extractor socket, set but a very high-quality version, and they were able to get it out… Not before breaking a half inch extension themselves!… It was really in there obviously. I am now left with the block and the heads off, so I thank you for your advice everybody.

Next, I am stripping it down and having a block tested to make sure there are no cracks and then having an engine shop look at it for slipped sleeves.

 

Thank you for replying with the outcome. Threads all too often are left unresolved.

 

Congrats on getting the head bolt out!

By the way, the second question was about the black chunks. That is known as carbon, and tends to build up in engines that aren't worked very hard. Sometimes racing is good for you.

 

Thank you and got it. I've just never have seen the amount of carbon loose and built up like that before.

Other than getting the block professionally pressure tested, is there any way to see if the block has a crack? Would it be obvious in some way?

Next a slipped sleeve, would it be obvious with a super accurate straight edge across the deck of the block?

 

if a sleeve is dropped down, it is slipped, and obvious. If it happens to be in correct location, then you can't tell unless you have block pressure tested. It is an easy operation you can do at home with air compressor and some home made block off plates. As for the carbon, this is what you get when an engine is not burning fuel correctly (ie: incomplete combustion). Many reasons for running very rich for a long time....maybe temp sensor, O2 sensors, or TPS/MAF is inaccurate..maybe ECU has a programming flaw....???? It's going to be a common issue to all cylinders, so not likely 8 failed injectors...

If the donor engine is a 4.6 out of a 99-02 RR, check block color, (I think RED? or was it BLUE?) is less like to have a slipped liner or cracked block

in your OP first pic, looks like head gasket failure with blow-by on the 'left' end . get you heads check for warpage....

If you rebuild with ARP studs, do not tighten them into block! screw down, and then back out at least 1/2 turn.....

 

OK appreciate the feedback team - thank you!

So I suspected heads warped on both sides. Check out my picture in post #15 above. Look at the bottom of the picture, the head gasket. The sections between the cylinders appears to be worn out to silver color. Would seem to indicate blow by into and out of each cylinder.

Well, Im going to get the heads planned, and see about them testing the block too. Thanks again!