If it has an amp under the seat and the speakers say Harmon Kardon on them it is the premium sound system, otherwise it is an Alpine. You will want to tap into the wires for one of the subwoofers, which will either be brown/black and white/black or pink/red and pink/green. You can disconnect the other pair. You will need to adjust the gain on the input of the new sub to work with the high output from your factory amp or use the line convertor you have to switch it to an RCA input if necessary. You will need to run a lead from your battery to the sub to power the amp. This will need to be a heavy gauge cable. Make sure you put a fuse at the battery. Then you can ground the amp near the back where you tap into the harness for the sub. Your amp is the type that will recognize a signal at the input and automatically fire up so you don't need to worry about using the remote lead. I would recommend using crimp connectors at the very least or solder and shrink wrap to do it correctly. Scotchloc taps are on my list of hated items.

By the way, what sub did you buy? Being able to check the specs will be helpful.

 

i posted earlier a link to it but i bought the JBL bass pro GT.

Im confused on where the wires I'm to tap my converter into are at. in the rear in the air return where i tapped into my trailer wires or at the amp? Id like to do it at the back of the car i just don't know which sets of wires it is like i have said there are 2-3 taped up sets of wires and I'm not sure which to splice into. (this seems like cutting a bomb wire)

as for when i wire it in i don't want to do damage to the wires so if i solder do i cut them in half then solder the 3 wires together?

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_109GTPR...12.html?tp=114

 

Ok - just checked out that sub. Looks pretty sweet. You want to pull off both wires to the factory subs as this unit is set up to handle two inputs. You need to look in the bundle that feeds into the rear door for the colors I referenced in my previous post. You will find it in the same area that you found the wires for your trailer wiring. Use the high-level input harness that comes with the sub, not the convertor you bought. The sub can handle a pretty high voltage input so you should have no problem setting the level to work with your stock system as the inputs. Set the auto turn on switch to on so you don't need the remote wiring.

You can cut the wires and then solder the three together, you can strip off the insulation from an inch or so of the wires then split them apart a little, wrap in the added wire and then solder that or just cut the wires and connect straight to the sub. I would eliminate the factory subs by cutting the wires since they will only detract from the system once the new sub is installed. If anybody wants to reconnect the factory subs they can do that at a later time.

 

So basicly i don't need my RCA converter the sub comes with wires i splice into the sub wires that are in the back of the truck? then everything is good to go?

 

i re read your post duxlr and your saying the sub wires where my trailer wire is just cut those in half and instead of wiring all 3 just wire in my sub as if nothing was ever cut?

Which wires are they i still haven't figured that out

 

Download the electrical library from my signature. It will give you the color codes of the wires.

 

i assume BY means blue yellow trying to make sure I'm reading this right. what speaker am i looking for since I'm trying to tap into the wires in the trailer wire area would it be low range rear door?

 

Here is the color code list: BY = Black with Yellow Stripe
1st letter is the primary color, 2nd letter is the stripe color.

 

Thanks all of this seems to be talking more about in the head unit area. the wires won't change color in the back will they?

 

The power amplifier is connected to the low range tail door speaker 1 on a KB wire. From the low range tail door speaker 1 the connection returns on a RB wire to the power amplifier.

KB would be POS and RB would be NEG correct?