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Again, no need to install the plug screw from the inside. The screw installed from the outside worked just fine in my truck for several years until I replaced the tank (for reasons I do not recall). I used a #14 x 3/4" sheet metal screw. It sealed the hole in the soft plastic of the tank very well.
The line running from the TBH to the expansion tank is the return. The other line running to the TBH is the supply, and it's easy for you to trace just by looking at it. If you were to remove the nylon return pipe entirely you could plug the short hose connecting the pipe to the TBH with a short, appropriately sized cap screw (bolt) and secure it with a hose clamp (probably the one that is in place there now).
So, we're completely cutting off circulation? the barb (nipple) on the bottom of the expansion tank broke off as I was trying to remove the return line to inspect it for leaks. The return line itself also broke. Everything is brittle. I could plug the remains of the barb on the expansion tank with a screw like pictured above. I could remove the return line entirely and also plug that somehow... Or I can remove one end of the supply line and plug it, like instructed. However, what consequences this might have on the overall cooling system function? Is this safe? Aside from throttle body not being heated, that it?
Thanks
In your thread on the other forum I posted a diagram of the DII cooling system flow. Perhaps you didn't see that, so I've included a portion of it here showing the line from the upper intake to the TBH (numbered 6) and line from the TBH to the expansion tank (7). The only thing that circuit does is pass warm coolant through the TBH. That's it. That's all.
I added pics showing how the line to the TBH is plugged, and showing where that line is connected on top of the upper intake (next to the coolant temp sensor). You could block that line there if you like, but you'd need to move the A/C compressor out of the way. Another pic shows how I have the short hose from the expansion tank nipple blocked, but you'd just have the hole in the bottom of the tank plugged with a #14 x 3/4" sheet metal screw.
My truck has run like this for ~10 years with no adverse effect (how could there be?). As Nike says, "Just Do It", and don't look back.
I see. Yes, I found some bolt that fit very tightly into the hole, what used to be barb/nipple on the expansion tank. I heated that bolt up with a small torch and screwed it into the expansion tank, seems to hold just fine. No, a piece of brittle black plastic return hose from TBH is stuck inside the rubber short hose, and I screwed in another screw in there, and tightened the original clamp, but it's leaking. What I need to do is get the right size bolt in Home Depot or Advanced Auto and plug the supply line like you did, hopefully without removing the A/C compressor. It's drivable now, but not 100% Kosher.
I still plan on getting an aluminum expansion tank, and a new expansion tank-radiator line, as it looks like it's made of the same brittle crappy plastic... At that point, perhaps I'll restore the TBH function, or perhaps do a bypass, where the supply line goes back into the expansion tank? Might it help in cooling ever so slightly?
I've had multiple plastic puke tanks fail and strand me or my wife in inconvenient places - That would be anywhere with a trailer attached; traveling through the highest auto tunnel in the US (world?) in a strong snow storm at night; etc. I'm sure you get the idea. I replace plastic cooling system parts with metal parts either when they fail or when I have the cooling system drained for any other reason. I have the Carr's 4x4 tank and lower wye pipe. The upper tee is not needed because I have the Inline Thermostats inline thermostat. (see what i did there?) The other plastic tubes can be replaced with metal tubing or higher quality rubber hose, or become a regular maintenance replacement item. Read @Extinct's explanation of the cooling system pressurization issue if you haven't already.
Okay, gentlemen, I so far have accomplished the simplest and most crude of TBH deletes ever. I am sure it's not a great fix for the long-term, I used an M10 bolt to plug the shorty rubber hose on the TBH, which is where the return line used to be. Drove the truck, and the coolant operating temperature seems to be lower now, by a couple of degrees. Is it possible that since that loop is blocked, the water circulation increased in the engine itself? Thus lowering the operating temps? I have a cheap OBDII scanner constantly plugged it, it reads coolant temperature. I know it's better to install an actual analog, dedicated water temp gauge, but so far this is what I have.
I don’t think it will affect the coolant flow enough to make a noticeable difference in temperature.
As for reading your coolant temperature, a lot of us have an Ultragauge permanently connected, secured to the dash. I think they’re still only US$86.
I don’t think it will affect the coolant flow enough to make a noticeable difference in temperature.
As for reading your coolant temperature, a lot of us have an Ultragauge permanently connected, secured to the dash. I think they’re still only US$86.
I'm looking at mechanical gauges, old-school, that are between $15 and $30... I don't exactly know what's an ultragauge, but I am using on of these OBD II devices that I don't entirely trust. Need to connect a dedicated temp sensor of digital or mechanical kind and a dedicated gauge... Mechanical will work no matter what though.
I'm looking at mechanical gauges, old-school, that are between $15 and $30... I don't exactly know what's an ultragauge, but I am using on of these OBD II devices that I don't entirely trust. Need to connect a dedicated temp sensor of digital or mechanical kind and a dedicated gauge... Mechanical will work no matter what though.
Yes, something along those lines, perhaps instead of the ashtray in the dash, to the right of the stereo system. I use the coin tray to support my phone, when using navigation. I have one of those in-line thermostat kits, by the way, and I do believe it has already saved my engine at least on one occasion! A mechanical gauge will always work no matter what... Electronic gauge is probably more accurate though... Still thinking about it and where is the best place to install the sensor.
10-13-2024 | 09:35 AM
