Thanks BEST4X4, I will take the first four into consideration, but the last one I'll discard in my case. As soon as truck died, I automatically checked for codes -logged or pending; without opening or closing doors, and that's when I saw the three codes under pending. I know that we shouldn't fixate on "pending" faults, but it caught my attention that it also popped up in previous event, and there's not much about it out there.

I don't recall seeing the red light going bananas, but I'll take another look when I tow the truck back here later in the day.

Thanks again.

 

I would not go down the road of the fob $600

 

...noted, thanks REDWHITEKAT; new CSP sensor should arrive by Monday and will see how it goes from there.

 

"Although it makes some sense, why would the immobilizer all of a sudden activate itself without notice while waiting for a green light?"
This is not your problem -- immobilizer doesn't activate when the car's on. I think your mechanic is missing the fact that it turned itself off in the middle of the road.

One idea. You could have a water ingress issue with the electrics under the dash. Have you noticed that your carpet may be wet, anywhere inside under the mats? That will cause nonsensical issues. Which you're having.

How are your battery cables and connections? Good? Crappy & old? Bad battery negative cable can cause weird stuff...

 

Thanks NASHVEGAS! ...but I haven't noticed mats under dash wet, I'll look closer though. Water does ingress when raining thru rear sunroof, but usually lands on rear cover until it dries out, but again, I'll look into this just in case.

As per battery cables/connectors, I've never changed the cables since I've own the truck (7yrs aprox), and just look old, but not crappy; the connectors I did replaced at one point, it had the original soldered to cable one; but maybe is something worth replacing to avoid them adding to my issues. Again, I'll look into this as well, thanks for the tips!

 

..:: UPDATE ::..

Hello Roverers,

I finally had truck towed yesterday to my workplace, and replacement Bosch CSP sensor should arrive Monday from Rockauto, so I can give that another try.

In the meantime, I made a video from inside the truck and trying to start it (starting.wmv), hopefully any of you might pick something up from what you see or hear. You'll also hear me locking/unlocking doors using button on dash, after starting attempt and removing keys from ignition; no blinking red light comes on throughout the process, so I'm guessing it only blinks when I lock/unlock from outside using door lock, since buttons on FOB do not work. This is just to look further if immobilizer may be playing a role here or not.

A second video shows me locking/unlocking with key in door (lock-unlock.wmv). You'll see in first 15 secs how red light blinks fast, I suppose while arming itself, then it slows down to a normal blinking, until I unlock and repeat the process one more time.

On first video you'll also hear a grinding noise after failed start attempt. When the non-start issue is present, the grinding noise is stronger, but when truck used to run after replacing CSP, the it was soft until it died down after start, but it was there. This noise was noticed after the first time the "non-starting" issue begun - a month or so ago, and CSP sensor was replaced; before this event, I don't recall hearing the grinding noise at all.

Let me know your thoughts, thanks.

 

If anything blinks after opening truck the security system is indicating an issue.

 

...thanks "EXTINCT", then is not my case, since I only see it blinking rapidly from 15 secs aprox as soon as I lock it from the outside, then it starts blinking slowly, as I guess it is supposed to.

 

..:: UPDATE ::..

Hello Roverers! ...so I find myself in a pickle.
New BOSCH CSP sensor arrived, and I crawled under truck to replace it and see if I can get it started again, but replaced it and still no start. In addition, I see that the male connector is missing the flap that clicks onto the female from sensor, so I fear connection here is no good, and fixing it might be a headache.
So here I find myself with new sensor, no start, and a connector that may not be holding. Any pointers?

 

You can use a zip tie to hold the connector together. Next thing to check is the fuel pump/pressure. Fuel pump should run while cranking. You can check at the pump or at the fusebox. If you have voltage but no pressure - bad pump. No voltage - different problem, most common is security lockout or inertia switch on firewall.