I don’t know the answers to your technical questions, but as for your joke, it’s said that Land Rovers don’t go off road until their third owner. That certainly seemed to be true for my D2 and P38 (but not my Series 2A).

 

Also, if the transfer case is in neutral and you start then turn off the vehicle, will it not release the key until it is also taken out of transfer case neutral? This would seem to make sense as transfer case neutral is really only a state for towing, and in that case you would want to leave the steering unlocked as well and this would force it.

I ask because my key wouldn't come out after I started and then turned off the vehicle with the transfer case neutral lamp lit.

 

The key won't come out if the vehicle thinks the transmission is in N for sure. Never personally have left the TC in N and tried to remove the key.

 

Here you can see LOCKED v UNLOCKED. If the arm is pushed towards the rear....it LOCKS the diff.

LOCKED

UNLOCKED

 

I'd personally climb under there and disconnect the PRND321 linkage and manually shift it into park. Then see if the key comes out. If it does, then I'd also manually place the Transmission into N and then see if you can shift the 4High/N/4Low **** up/down. I wouldn't be so worried with the CDL position at the moment. CDL engagement/disengagement sometimes takes a little bit with the vehicle moving to engage/disengage.

 

Alright, with the assistance of a long screwdriver and some baling wiring, we (my ranch buddy and I) were able to remove the pin from the shifter lever and move the Hi/Low range selector to "High".

CDL lever/cable is adjusted correctly, so at least I don't have that to worry about.

"New" transfer case is smooth as butter.

And key came out, so looks like my theory that when the transfer case is in neutral, the steering shaft can't be locked under the assumption that if you are in transfer case neutral, the vehicle is being towed. Yet another one of those uniquely "(too) clever English" things with unintended consequences.

Eventually (when my patience level is higher), I plan to reinstall to re-install the pin and properly adjust the cable so I have High/Low -- and neutral -- capability. Hopefully I can do that without dropping the case again, and any advice on to do that adjustment -- like what position to put it in, how best to access the cable locknuts and what tools I might need (I know it is a 24mm and a crowfoot would be best), is it better to access front front or behind,etc. -- would be appreciated. If there's a forum link already on the subject to point me to, that would be great.

The other question would be regarding the routing of the transfer case breather tube.

We accidently pulled it out when dropping the transfer case and I can't seem to get it back into a position on the firewall where the back of the engine isn't going to eventually melt it.

Right now the breather tube seems too short to get to where I remember it being routed : in the middle of the firewall and looped up around the metal fuel/brake that run horizontally across the back of the firewall. Again, any advice or tricks would be most appreciated.

 

The breather tube is zip tied to the rear engine lift ring (behind the passenger side head) along with the transmission breather tube. This done at the factory. Some people move this over and mount it closer to the inertia switch or extending the line with fuel
line.

 

do you have the RAVE manual downloaded yet (the LT230 and General Overhaul manuals)? It would be good for you to read through it regarding the T case set-up (and other issues) before doing any more work on the truck and then having to fix it again....

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