Hi

I'm trying to narrow down on the cause for my WOD problem. While there's no play anywhere, I found out that the left swivel ball moves easily. I was getting ready to get the swivel pin off to remove shims but found out that one of the bolts can only be removed by removing the hard piping of the brake line to the caliper.

Am I missing something here? No threads I've seen on the subject talk of disconnecting a brake line, unless all thread were covering non-ABS models.



Thanks for any hint.

 

yep you have to remove the hard line. take a pair of needle nose vise grips nd clam the rubber brake line before the removal of hard line. this will keep the line from just dripping and running the master cylinder dry.

walter

 

Mmmm I guess that also means purging the brake line afterwards?

 

It's a tight fit,but I removed the ABS sensor and used a box end wrench without disconnecting the brake line. The ABS sensor just pops out. Put a flathead screw drive under the lip and pry up. Once the bolt under the brake line is loosened, the bracket with the line attached will come with

 

If you grab the brake line to brkt clip and pull it up, you'll have all kinds of room to slot it just enough for the hard line to slide out or just swing it out.

If you ever do hubs later, it's nice to have slotted, tho'

put a jack under the bottom of the swivel as you remove the top bearing.

luck,greg

 

I finally removed the brake line, but despite having soaked it with liquid-wrench a day earlier, my 17mm socket just stripped the head of the bolt. Gotta get a special socket with those teeth for stripped bolt and nut heads.

 

Not that it will help now, but try PB Blaster instead of Liquid Wrench. I usually don't care about brand names for stuff, but it makes a difference here. This stuff is awesome.

Also, when you do have to open the brake piping systems, get a cheap "line" clamp form your local Auto Parts store they are plastic, have rounded jaws, a ratchet-like closure, are cheap, and really reduce any seepage to a minimum. They are for brake and fuel lines and such...

 

If you didn't, it's best to always use 6pt sockets on bolts like that, a lot less likely to round the corners.
Don't just remove shims, you'll be back to square one before long. The swivel bearings compress as they get mileage on them, so to do it right you should at least replace the bearings.

 

I just went through this a couple months ago. It didnt matter how many shims I removed, I still had play/wobble on the drivers side. After removing and replacing everything, found it was the railco bushing that was worn, not the lower bearing, and removing shims wont help that.

 

Oops, didn't think about that one...Is it what is also called the "Bearing for swivel ball", RNS086 on roversnorth parts list?

Mind you, I don't have any wobble (except at high speed), the housing is just easy to move back and forth.

thanks for the reply.