Hey All, I am currently running synthetics in the engine, transfer case and front and rear differentials. I started running the synthetics about 15k miles ago when I got the truck. I am now experiencing leaks where no leaks had been before, namely thetransfer case, valve cover gaskets and possibly the oil pan seal(I have changed out the oil cooler lines and the front crank seal). I was quoted $1200 to redo the transfer case seals (it works fine just leaks, no puddles) $650 for all three transmission cooler lines (the one that goes to the top of the tranny looks like a bear to get to, any suggestions without dropping the tranny?). I don't like the leaks but at those prices, I am quickly approaching the current market price for the truck! 99 Disc. I 90k miles in mint condition, except for the leaks. If I go back to conventional fluids in the transfer case, engine, can I expect the leaks to stop, slow down? I just can't see spending the money to redo the transfer case when it is functioning great. I am curetnly changing the engine oil at 3,500 miles. Thanks Happy 4th. Phil

99 Land Rover Discovery I, 90k miles

 

I changed out my transmission lines and yes the top one is not easy but you can do it with a short wrench about 6" long.
No need to drop the trans.

On the transfer case seals I do not know.

On the motor oil use Highmileage Mobil One syn oil.
Theleaks would have just started later.

 

Use synthetic fluid all the way around including the power steering and brake fluid.

 

This is a common problem when switching from dino oil to lab oil, the leaks will stop, the seals just need to adjust.
After I switched I had the same problem, one year alter and no leaks, thats right, a Rover with no leaks.

 

Thanks for all of your advice! Maybe I will invest in a drip pan. Spike555, you better check the dipstick. Any suggestions on the seals on the transfer case? Anyway to change them out without pulling it out or doing a complete overhaul? Thanks again, Phil

 

Why don't you power scrub your engine, find all the leaks and see what it will take to fix them?

 

Alright, small steps but in the right direction! I checked the access plate behind the flywheel, hoping that the rear main was not the source of the oil leak. Dry as a bone! After some girations under the truck, no lift, It looks like the leak may be coming from the back of the valve cover gasket on the passenger side. Doesn't really show a leak at all from the engine compartment view. Bingo, I think that I have that one in hand.

Now the transfer case is still a mystery, no clear source of a leak but there clearly is one. Has anyone used bars gear box stop leak or a product called White Shepherd? Kragen carries both but the sales guys didn't know much about it. I just can't bring myself to spend $1200 to rebuild a perfectly fine transfer case, except for the irritating oil leak.

Transmission lines, the line that attaches to the drivers side of the transmission housing, other than stuffing my hand up there, are there any secrets for gaining access to that fitting?

Thanks a ton, this site is great! Man what a charge a dry rear main seal will give you, I think I'll go surfing!

Phil

99 Discovery I 90k miles

 

your tbox is leaking from the inermediate shaft seal on the front, you can see is between the back of the trans, kind of overlapped by the bracket, its an oring, to replace it you basicly need to overhaul the tbox, on the other hand, since its under no pressure there, you can just clean it off real well and seal it up with some rtv from the outside if you want, not really the right fix, but itll work, and yes, its a pain to get rtv to cover the whole thing but make sure you get it all covered or youre not doing any good... also, make sure that your tbox breather is in good shape, it should be up on the back side of the pass side head, if its dropped down and hit the exhaust itll melt closed and youll have too much pressure in your box, hence the leaks

 

Dont bother rebuilding your t-case, you can buy one from www.roverlandparts.com for $800. If a shop rebuilds yours it wont take, and $1200 is way to much anyway.
www.discoweb.org has a tech section with a link on how to replace a leaking front seal on a t-case.
Start by changing the fluid in it and switching to 85w-140 gear lube. Then clean it really well. If it isint leaving any puddles on the ground then dont worry about it. Just check it every 6 months.

 

It look like the source if the transfer box leak is the intermediate shaft o-ring/oil seal. Parts 3 and 4 in the in the Rave CD, Section 41 Transfer Case, Intermediate Gear and Power Takeoff Assembly, page 411 of 873. I will try the RTV seal technique and see how she does. The rest of the transfer box looks really good, except there appears to be a slight trace of fluid around the base of one of the electrical senders on the rear of the transfer case, but it doesn't really look like it is dripping and fluid, just wet. How about the sealant additives, Bars or White Shepherd? Anyone ever have any luck in that regard? Thanks again for all of the input! Phil