Hey guys,
Last night I went out to change the oil in my differentials as well as my t-case. Differentials went super easy without a hitch. (Except, can you get metal plugs for the FILL hole? - I have magnetic plugs for the DRAIN plug, but my FILL plug is plastic and annoying) Oil in the differentials actually looked pretty good with not very much metal on the magnets.

Then I got to the t-case. I removed the cross-member underneath it. Then I drained it. PS - How do you get the e-brake cable out of the way? That was difficult. I heard someone removed it, but I wasn't quite sure how, so I had to work around it which was a PAIN. Anyway, I started removing the bolts from the t-case, being sure to keep them in the same position they came out on a piece of cardboard. 8 came out, but I could not get the two on the drivers side and towards the rear. Has anyone dropped their y-pipe to get to these? I was using a 10mm ratchet on the others and as able to get them loose, but my 10mm wrench would not budge those back ones. Eventually I just gave up because I couldn't really get the y-pipe off either. So I just put all the screws back in, and filled her up. It hasn't been leaking at all since I did it, but I would still like to re-seal it. Anyone have some suggestions?

Thanks

 

I just did this last week, diffs, tcase, and trans. First, I couldn't move the e-brake cable out of the way, at all, but my universal 1/2 socket worked with ease to get the fill plug in/out:



Next, about the top bolts, I used the same 10mm ratchet but add some leverage. My favorite tool for doing this is to use the extension bar thats in the pack with your land rovers tire iron. I'm doing the drive shaft now and I'm even using that to add leverage to my socket wrench, but here's the 10mm with it attached.



Try it! It works great and will give you the leverage you need to get those last two bolts out. I went to ace hardware and bought all new replacement bolts as well. Looks great all cleaned up with shinny new bolts. I also filled it up with 85w140 and she's nice and smooth now, and no leaks!

 

First, make sure you are using an 85/140 gear oil to slow down your wear, where exactly is your leak coming form? I used some White Shepherd oil stop leak a couple of yours ago for one dif and my t/case, neither have leaked since.
As for a good brass plug, go to British Parts of Utah, they have a great brass plug.

 

i got brass plugs for the front and rear diffs at rovahfarm.com, they had nice prices as i recall.

i got my t case cover off by removing that crossbeam (a pain) and then just lots of cursing and bloody knuckles. not as annoying as those bolts for the running boards though!

 

Haha might not have been as annoying though if I had included all the needed bolts to begin with :/ They come off nice and easy on my end though!

And my cross beam actually came off real easy.

Thanks for the heads up on the brass fill plugs. I'll look into those.

Thanks Mike. My t-case actually wasn't leaking at all. I just thought I would do it for good measure. Haha I should have learned by now that with a Rover, just don't mess with stuff that ain't broken! Either way, I put the rest of the bolts back on the cover plate, tightened them down, refilled it and it still isn't leaking (fingers crossed). And I did use 85w140 pre suggestions here.

Thanks Andrew for the pictures and encouragement. I think I will take another stab at in a few weeks. I'll try some of the methods you suggested and hopefully I can get them off!

And just FYI I broke my 10mm harbor freight socket on these nuts! The socket actually split in half! Pretty crazy. Thankfully harbor freight gave me a brand new set for free per their lifetime warranty guarantee. Once I'm outta grad school, I might invest in some higher quality tools... but for now the harbor freight specials have worked great.

 

Justin at Lucky8 also has some.
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