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Temp light came on, now sitting on side of road;)

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  #11  
Old 11-07-2011, 09:46 PM
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Now as to scanner, there are plenty to select from, but you want one that will read data, not just stored codes. There is also a handy item called an Ultra Gauge, does many of the same things, and displays coolant temp, gas mpg, etc, about $80. A code scanner can be used with other cars as well. Here's a pix of one, this member has overheat based on a fan problem. 226 temp, should be more like 195. Just plugs into the test port under the dash. Also pix of typical scanner.
 
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Old 11-07-2011, 10:16 PM
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Great idea, I will show him the pics
 
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Old 11-09-2011, 08:14 PM
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here some pix of Dexcool per your PM. Many people tried to use this long lasting coolant as "forever", and also they (or service providers) topped it off with other coolant. The result is an orange mud that slowly clogs up the passeges in the radiator until it does not cool as much as it needs to for the truck. Mechanics refer to this as Dexcool sludge. Peak is one good brand of the green stuff.
 
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Old 11-09-2011, 08:27 PM
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Buzz, so if Dexcool was used before is it possible that the sludge is causing the overheating problem. He flushed it but said there wasn't a lot and it is pretty clear.

Now we are in a mess as i said in the PM i just sent you, he replaced the therostat and now it overheats quick in the driveway and also the heat never comes out, just cold.

If this little info helps. It did not go into the red until I turned the heat off. As soon as I turned the heat off it slowly creeped into the red. Mind you the heater was at 75 temp wise but only put out cold air.

Thanks much for any idea's anyone may have. Patrick really does listen to all the advise just not much of a typist, so thats why I ask all the questions.
 
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Old 11-09-2011, 08:29 PM
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BTW, we have only had the Rover for a little under six months, so no idea what was orginally in it, coolant wise.
 
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Old 11-09-2011, 08:38 PM
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Have him look at this drawing. Item 16 is the thermostat. It has three openings. Side with one opening goes down. If "arm" opening on other side was NOT connected to pipe #17, unit would overheat very quickly, and there would be only cold air coming from heater. Double check this first.
 
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Old 11-09-2011, 08:52 PM
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Okay, Just printed it out! He just got home
 
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Old 11-09-2011, 09:05 PM
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He went and double checked and said it is installed correctly just like in the diagram. Also he said when he flushed the coolant it looked okay.
 
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Old 11-09-2011, 09:26 PM
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Check belt route.

Has air been bled from cooling system thru fitting on top radiator hose?
 
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  #20  
Old 11-09-2011, 09:30 PM
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If on a D2 the "heated air" is cold, with heat on max, no AC, then either you have low coolant, or a heck of a blockage, or a water pump that isn't turning. Coolant goes thru the pump, through the engine, part goes back to heater core under dash, then returns to intake side of pump. This is pretty much bypassed from thermostat.
 


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