Terrafirma rear bumper install woes.
Thread Starter
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Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 801
Likes: 84
From: Seattle, WA
Terrafirma rear bumper install woes.
Heh all,
I got most of the way through installing the Terrafirma rear bumper today but in still faced with one problem. I'm having a hard time getting the bolt holes for the trailer hitch and the bumper to line up so that I can bolt the hitch to the sub frame.
Any suggestions on the best approach here, the holes aren't off by much, but it looks like I need the bumper to move upwards and back maybe 1/3 of an inch. I've tried loosening off all the bolts and pushing and pulling on the bumper, but it fits into the space between the subframe and hitch mount really snugly, and it's that area that I need to manipulate.
Thoughts?
I got most of the way through installing the Terrafirma rear bumper today but in still faced with one problem. I'm having a hard time getting the bolt holes for the trailer hitch and the bumper to line up so that I can bolt the hitch to the sub frame.
Any suggestions on the best approach here, the holes aren't off by much, but it looks like I need the bumper to move upwards and back maybe 1/3 of an inch. I've tried loosening off all the bolts and pushing and pulling on the bumper, but it fits into the space between the subframe and hitch mount really snugly, and it's that area that I need to manipulate.
Thoughts?
Thread Starter
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Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 801
Likes: 84
From: Seattle, WA
Thanks for responding guys.
I'll post some pics tomorrow.
The TF rear bumper utilizes the existing outer mounting points as the OE bumper but also has a bracket that is supposed to slide between the hitch and the sub frame, to provide a center mounting point. Atlantic British's howto video on YouTube magically cuts out the part where that would all need to be aligned
I'll post some pics tomorrow.
The TF rear bumper utilizes the existing outer mounting points as the OE bumper but also has a bracket that is supposed to slide between the hitch and the sub frame, to provide a center mounting point. Atlantic British's howto video on YouTube magically cuts out the part where that would all need to be aligned
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 27
Likes: 4
I used a large, tapered end tool like the ones steel workers use to align bolt holes. I had to make my own from an old tire iron. I made mine on my Bridgeport, but you can also just use a disc or belt sander with a table. You need to constantly spin the tool to get a nice uniform end on it.
Or, I guess you could use a big *** screw driver.
I needed a TON of leverage to move the holes into alignment. I also had to push up on the bumper...used blocks of wood and a floor jack. Took all day to do it. Which is better than the 3 DAYS it took to do the front bumper!
Also....I had to remove the large washer-like spacers that were tacked to the hitch...or were they tacked to the bumper?? I can't remember, but they look like 1/4" thick washers. That was really the turning point of the install...once they were gone it went much easier.
Or, I guess you could use a big *** screw driver.
I needed a TON of leverage to move the holes into alignment. I also had to push up on the bumper...used blocks of wood and a floor jack. Took all day to do it. Which is better than the 3 DAYS it took to do the front bumper!
Also....I had to remove the large washer-like spacers that were tacked to the hitch...or were they tacked to the bumper?? I can't remember, but they look like 1/4" thick washers. That was really the turning point of the install...once they were gone it went much easier.
Thread Starter
|
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 801
Likes: 84
From: Seattle, WA
I used a large, tapered end tool like the ones steel workers use to align bolt holes. I had to make my own from an old tire iron. I made mine on my Bridgeport, but you can also just use a disc or belt sander with a table. You need to constantly spin the tool to get a nice uniform end on it.
Or, I guess you could use a big *** screw driver.
I needed a TON of leverage to move the holes into alignment. I also had to push up on the bumper...used blocks of wood and a floor jack. Took all day to do it. Which is better than the 3 DAYS it took to do the front bumper!
Also....I had to remove the large washer-like spacers that were tacked to the hitch...or were they tacked to the bumper?? I can't remember, but they look like 1/4" thick washers. That was really the turning point of the install...once they were gone it went much easier.
Or, I guess you could use a big *** screw driver.
I needed a TON of leverage to move the holes into alignment. I also had to push up on the bumper...used blocks of wood and a floor jack. Took all day to do it. Which is better than the 3 DAYS it took to do the front bumper!
Also....I had to remove the large washer-like spacers that were tacked to the hitch...or were they tacked to the bumper?? I can't remember, but they look like 1/4" thick washers. That was really the turning point of the install...once they were gone it went much easier.
It's the washers that I haven't yet removed that are contributing to the mis-alignment. Once those are out of there I should be able to get enough movement to line things up.
So far, i've used a combination of my two post lift and a HF motorcycle/ATV lift to manipulate the hitch and Bumper but I couldn't figure out how to apply leverage to that center bracket without putting a hole in my gas tank
Pro Wrench
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,605
Likes: 321
From: BC, Canada
Robert, I would love to see some pics of your TF bumper when it is done. I still have the factory rear bumper. Lucky me. The hitch and rear step has acted as pretty good dampers so far
But I know a steel rear is on the horizon.
But I know a steel rear is on the horizon.
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 1,184
Likes: 106
From: Putnam county. NY.
I would also like to see photos.
Glad you got it on.......