Hey guys does anyone know what the high and low side resistance of the coil pack is supposed to be? What ohms should it be tested on?

I just want to test it one more time before I pull the valve cover.

 

Can't say that I've ever seen that published, but another thing came to mind thinking about the ignition on these. Are you aware the this ignition uses "paired firing" plugs? Which means 2&3 fire at the same time as well as 1&6, 4&7, and 5&8. The other plug fires during the exhaust stroke. Just something to keep in mind when diagnosing. Looking at which plugs aren't firing and then at which coil they plug into might help you figure this out.

 

Anyone know? Will look into that Bkreutz

 

Google is your friend..

From other BLOGS...

The workshop manual gives the expected resistance for the primary and secondary coils in the ignition coil modules, as follows:

Primary coil resistance: 0.5 ± 0.05 Ω at 20℃
Secondary coil resistance: 13.3 ±1.3 kΩ at 20℃

But it doesn't give any details on how to perform this test. I am hoping someone may be able to give me some tips.

LRT.

If you have the coils off, you look at the 3 pin plugs and measure from the middle pin to the outers for primary resistance. The secondaries are measured across the output terminals between the two ends of each half of the coil, eg with firing order 18436572 you measure between the terminals for cylinders 1 and 6. BTW the resistance test won't find coils with internal insulation failure, only swapping with a known good s/h coil will do that.

You can test the secondaries by measuring from one plug boot to another, use the firing order to find the leads that are 4 cylinders apart. You can test coil voltage pulses at the ECU if you have a wiring diagram to determine the correct wire colours and pin connections.

But it is far more likely your loss of spark has nothing to do with the coils. First check the fuses that are marked with "engine" type signals in the fuse boxes.

Immobiliser failure or crank angle sensor failure spring to mind. You don't get spark unless the ECU gets all the right input signals. You may need someone with diagnostic skills to drop in on you.

 

From reading all that blah blah..
You are better off swapping the two coils and see if the problems go to the other side..

Sorry but..
That will be more definitive then messing with a Volt Ohm Meter.

1) Clear codes.
2) Swap coils.
3) Run for a tim.
4) Check for pending codes.

Done.

 

Make sure SWMBO holds the test wire from the coil. She will never bother you in the garage again...