Hey guys,
Sorry for all the questions but having a few issues all at once here... According to this thread- https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...-2003-a-40706/ there is no true fix for the common oil pump issue. I do have a ticking sound coming from my car during warm up and an oil leak coming from the front cover or so I think.

Assuming I have a noisy oil pump and leak, what does one do?

 

Simple fix Replace the oil pump !!

 

Your best bet is to install an after market oil pressure guage. This will allow you to monitor the pressure now and see if it drops in the future. That is what I did. I have a 2003 in the death VIN Range. My oil pressure has dropped recently at hot idle, but still no oil light. I will be replacing the oil pump gear, since the outer ring can break into pieces but still pump oil at a reduced pressure. Its a big job, since the crankshaft pulley, front cover, coolant/oil must all be drained and removed. Good time to replace your water pump too. I will be doing it this weekend. I bet there are a lot of people driving around on borrowed time because they do not know their oil gear has cracked. Here is the the replacement gear from brit parts of Utah. This fits inside the front cover and the crankshaft turns it at engine rpm. With all the parts & gaskets including timing chain kit your looking about $400 in parts if you do the work yourself. 2 days of work, but not terrible.

Here is a good thread that took on a life of its own, about installing a oil pressure gauge. My install is on the 2nd page.
Installing an Oil Pressuge Gauge on a 2003 Disco II ( 1 2 3)

This is the oil pump gear you can replace in the front cover. Good place to start too see if that outer gear is in 3 pieces.

 

Not simple, from what its sounds like you will have to continuously replace it over the life of the vehicle.

Thanks for the advice man! I've seen quite a few write ups on it and aware of the benefits.

If the front cover has to come off, I'll be replacing any and all parts possible. One question, I haven't found an actual "oil pump" replacement just the accessories that drive it? Is that the correct fix?

I just got done with the head gaskets and replaced all serviceable parts on the car (water pump, valve seals, wires, plugs etc). A little further diagnosis is needed as I'm only getting this noise at cold start up and goes away once a little heat is generated.

 

If you end up doing it Atlantic British has a deal on the timing chain kit. It will save you some $$ over buying the gaskets separate. Its what I ordered. also bought the oil pump gear there too.
Do an oil pressure check at cold startup 40-50psi. Hot idle 10psi not below. 2000 rpm 30 psi.
Mine fails at hot idle goes to about 6-7psi... but passes all the other numbers fine. The oil light has never come on.
I use 15w-40 Shell Rotella

Timing Chain Kit (BOSCH Engine) | Land Rover Engine Parts at RoverParts.com

 

I've seen that one above with my research on the issue, this will also be necessary, correct? Oil Pump Gear Kit W/Gaskets | Land Rover Engine Parts at RoverParts.com

Any other parts I need to do this job right?

 

Here's pix of what is ticking - cracked pump, still works, just wrong PSI, slowly starves engine for oil.

 

Thank you sir! I will keep you guys in the loop!

 

Those are the most necessary parts. It cannot hurt to have 2 front cover gaskets as it is convoluted and looks easily to tear or injure. I would do a oil pressure test first to see your numbers and go from there. I always call AB and tell them what I am doing so I dont forget a gasket or something else.

If you end up doing the job once you have removed the oil pan, stick a bar in the flywheel cutout triangle. Then loosen the cranskshaft bolt counter clockwise. This is the trick the dealer does in order to keep the crankshaft from spining. You should be able to walk the crankshaft pully off by hand. I did all this last winter to replace my crankshaft seal. Now no more leaks and I have practice on over 50% of the job. Good time to clean the oil pan up too. Follow the RAVE manual. All bolts on the oil pan go back on in a numbered order. I wrote in Sharpe the order torqued to 22nm. Just think after this job your Rover may not leak for awhile.

 

re: Hot idle 10psi not below. 2000 rpm 30 psi.

IMHO you are low on the high number a good bit.

Oil PSI specs from general data page of RAVE for D2:

Low oil pressure switch opening pressure 0.24-0.41 bar (3.5-6.0 lbf.in2)