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Thinking about coming back to Land Rover

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  #31  
Old 10-02-2013, 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Savannah Buzz
A radiator in Land Rovers is fed "in parallel" with horizontal tubes supplied by the side tank. If you warm up the truck, switch off, heat on fins top to bottom should be less than 10F spread. Above that, the lower rows are cooler from build up. On a D2, impractical to rod out (plastic brittle tanks). You can use an IR thermometer to check this out. A new radiator is $125 (knock off fleabay special) to $200 (Rock Auto for a Nissens). Don't whine, a new copper one for a D1 is like $700+.
Is there a better radiator that can be used from another vehicle? Something that is not so brittle?
 
  #32  
Old 10-03-2013, 07:52 AM
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I doubt it, just about every radiator today has the plastic sides. You just had bad luck with your radiator and it turned into something big. If you have something to monitor temps, keep an eye out for leaks, and change coolant when your supposed to you will be fine with any one of the radiators savannah suggested. Its really just something you have to watch for, any radiator can and will leak.
 
  #33  
Old 10-03-2013, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by White Rover
I doubt it, just about every radiator today has the plastic sides. You just had bad luck with your radiator and it turned into something big. If you have something to monitor temps, keep an eye out for leaks, and change coolant when your supposed to you will be fine with any one of the radiators savannah suggested. Its really just something you have to watch for, any radiator can and will leak.

Ok so let make sure I got everything correct here or laid out correctly.

The main reasons for the D2 overheating is the cooling system which leads to the radiator most times, next would be a water pump and probably next the thermostat.

So best thing to do in buying another one would be to do a coolant flush right away just to make sure I'm in the good. Cheak for any leaks and make sure other coolant parts are working properly.

Last would be to purchase a monitor of some sort like you have suggested to keep an eye on the coolant temps and everything else going on with the engine and cooling system correct?

My number one fear is loosing my engine. Like I said I can deal with the ABS, window regulators and other BS which is nothing but when it comes to loosing an engine that can really really hurt you. So by doing the above would be the way to go.

Would you possibly recommend just replacing the radiator, water pump and thermostat when I get one and just write down when I changed the items a and plus do a flush of the cooling system? Just so I start out fresh and know I'm in good hands? Or would it be best to just do a coolant flush through the system and buy a monitor to watch it?

Thanks

Oh btw replacing the hoses wouldn't be a bad thing ether right? I mean this is something I should do as well if I plan on setting up the new cooling system.
 

Last edited by Lyric; 10-03-2013 at 09:22 AM.
  #34  
Old 10-03-2013, 10:29 AM
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If it were me i would get an gauge of your choice to monitor your coolant temp. First check for leaks and make sure hoses and waterpump are in good condition, replace as necessary. Then i would flush the system and use a green coolant 50/50 mix (you can use full strength just make sure to dilute with distiled water) and put a soft spring 180 t-stat in. Then i would see where the temps were at. If high i would check into seeing why and replace the radiator or whatever needed replacement. Then just keep an eye on temps if they get over 220 i personaly would shut her down and see why. Highest i've seen is 204 and i dont have a soft spring t-stat yet.
 
  #35  
Old 10-03-2013, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by White Rover
If it were me i would get an gauge of your choice to monitor your coolant temp. First check for leaks and make sure hoses and waterpump are in good condition, replace as necessary. Then i would flush the system and use a green coolant 50/50 mix (you can use full strength just make sure to dilute with distiled water) and put a soft spring 180 t-stat in. Then i would see where the temps were at. If high i would check into seeing why and replace the radiator or whatever needed replacement. Then just keep an eye on temps if they get over 220 i personaly would shut her down and see why. Highest i've seen is 204 and i dont have a soft spring t-stat yet.

Now I remember my previous D2 had pink coolant in it, now this would be what they call the Dexcool correct? Now I have heard two different stories, I have heard to not use anything in a Rover engine but the pink coolant it comes with and I have also heard to drain all pink coolant and perform a flush and refill with 50/50 green. So what is the best option here? I have heard the pink dexcool coolant is what causes issues in the cooling systems like screwing the radiator up and everything else. Plus I heard it's bad for the engine as well. So?
 
  #36  
Old 10-03-2013, 11:35 AM
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Yes that is correct that more than likely was dexcool and when Air reacts with the dexcool and it can mud up and plug things up. I would use green and change it when the service manual says to and you will be fine.
 
  #37  
Old 10-03-2013, 12:17 PM
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What I would possibly do is buy a new radiator, water pump, thermostat and hoses and flush the system out really good and top it all off with the green 50/50. I would like to replace everything and start out fresh so I will then no I more than likely will have no chance of an overheat or issues with the pink coolant or previous pink coolant. Thanks
 
  #38  
Old 10-07-2013, 09:29 AM
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Found this article recently and found it interesting. It mentions at the very end about certain years and common problems. It mentions the 2003 with the oil pump issues. It says that Land Rover replaced the 2003's engines with engines from 2004 to resolve the issue because of a design flaw or manufacturing issue in the 2003 models. Plus it says oil pump failure was or would occur within the first 10,000 miles I think it said. So I guess it's safe to say that if it's an 2003 than your safe because it wont have a failure because it's past that 10,000 mile mark or the engine was replaced with a 2004 engine.

A look back at the 1999-2004 Land Rover Discovery: a modern classic SUV - Newark Classic cars | Examiner.com

Still, the only thing that worries me is all the blown heads you see on these vehicles. I see a bunch of Discovery 2's in my area for sale with blown heads and it rubs me the wrong way. I get really nervous thinking about buying and the heads blowing out. It's kind of like you might as well realize or expect this to happen, like some major design flaw.
 
  #39  
Old 10-07-2013, 11:59 AM
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It does happen, but if you keep an eye on temps you can have a better chance than just assuming everything is fine. I wouldn't say its a design flaw gaskets, seals, and bearings just fail over time no matter how preventive you are.
 
  #40  
Old 10-07-2013, 12:15 PM
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It's just that I've never heard issues like head gaskets going out in a vehicle with 120,000 miles or less. It really just puzzles me.

So is the 2003-2004 Range Rover HSE more reliable? It's another model I've always liked.


Is there any chance that the Discovery 2 may never blow a head gasket?
 

Last edited by Lyric; 10-07-2013 at 12:22 PM.


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