Can the stock diffs and axle shafts even handle all the torque from the Tesla motor? I would think all that needs to be upgraded as well. Same for the LT230.

 

Obviously the axles and carriers would need upgrades, but how cool would it be...? With lockers front and rear, and torque vectoring to provide as much power as can be handled by either axle...thing would be a beast!

Maybe I'm misunderstanding something, but as I understand it with torque vectoring, if the motor senses one output slipping, it naturally sends more power to the output that is not slipping, doing at least as good, if not a better job, than a simple locked t-case would do. An added benefit is that it is programmable, so you can tell it how much slip to allow before sending power the other way. But like I said, maybe I'm misunderstanding it's capabilities?
Biggest drawback I can see in todays environment is battery life/size/weight and charging times. But with the new tech ramping up and scheduled for integration in the next 12-18 months, I expect those restrictions to be eliminated as well.
I have seen some news about a company doing electric conversion live axles for trucks as well (Magna I think?). Not sure if or when they'll be available, but it'd be an even better option to the Tesla unit IMO. Weight even lower and batteries even more centralized, and 350-400hp/tq per axle.
I'm of the opinion that EV will very soon be the way to go, but it may still be a bit to early to do, unless one has lots of spare funds around to experiment with...ahh dreams, lol
Be fun to have a 408 LS stroker with 6l80 trans rig to compare to a Tesla swapped rig, you know, just for giggles

 

The problem with torque vectoring is that it is reactive instead of proactive. The wheel has to slip before the system can react to it. This is similar to how traction control works. Torque vectoring is more precise, but the issue is the same. Lockers prevent the slip from occurring by locking the two sides together. There was a really interesting article a while back with one of the engineers at Rivian discussing how they were contemplating the best 4wd setup (here: https://jalopnik.com/a-ridiculously-...lec-1847749837). I guess one considered setup was using one electric motor per axle with a locker versus the one motor per wheel (4-motor) setup they eventually went with. The superior 4wd setup ended up being each axle having one electric motor and a locker instead of the one motor per wheel because it prevented the slip from ever occurring. While they got the 4-motor system to be very good at detecting slip (within a couple milliseconds), even that minor amount of slip is worse than no slip at all. However, the 4-motor setup had other advantages for road driving, and that is what they ended up choosing. I have some doubt that most of these Tesla swaps would be able to keep OEM levels of torque vectoring though.

The Magna electric axles are very interesting as are the Ford and GM electric crate motors. The prices on those I think will be reasonable in the next few years and it should make the swaps a lot easier. Ford / GM electric crate motor direct to the LT230 would be a fairly easy install with minimal fabrication. The batteries will be the bigger question. The price of any of these swaps is still really expensive for now.

And there has been a Defender LS vs Tesla vs New Defender drag race .... which is a good laugh:

 

Perhaps tickles you ----> https://www.roadandtrack.com/car-cul...fender-review/

 

To start out I'm not trying to build suspense, be mysterious, promote, or seem important. I simply cannot give some details because of who I work for, what we do which is often proprietary, and some of the clientele we do this for.

I'm not sure why so many decide to rip the transmission out of vehicles just to put over simplified electric conversion in. I work in the EV world and have done numerous LSV conversions to HSV or just upgrades to existing systems. As well as motorcycle and auto conversions. I cannot get into some of the details due to works in progress or customer confidentiality of some configurations. However yes removing transmissions and doing direct drive or simplified gear sets to drive output is common. Sometimes that's what people ask for and other times it's what they can afford.

Now for placement of your power source the engine bay is very often desirable for ease of access and cost of batteries or power cells. For those using transmissions original or alternate conversion types power source placement becomes more like a Tesla, Prius or other hybrid types. Transmission based conversions where the ICE (internal combustion engine) is removed and either stock or a replacement transmission is selected makes power source placement rather challenging sometimes and others extremely simple. Again I am speaking from practical experience. Using a "complex" transmission or gearbox in some cases, is feasible and actually very cost effective. Keep in mind a transmissions, (for simplicity I'll refer to auto or manual as a transmission in general) purpose is to take input power and allow for a range of uses such as speed, torque or combination. So why in an ideal application you would opt not to use one is not very logical. Simplified transmissions, usually very few moving component or complexity offer some of the benefits a complex unit offers on smaller scale or fixed range. Personally I tend to take the jobs where a transmission is used as opposed to direct drive units (these may still have differential gear options to afford some very limited fixed range options) and leave the rest to others in our shops. Could be I like some of the challenges of the transmission or the mounting creativity for power source mounting. Either way transmission drive units tend to be more fun and realistic to the original power plant as far as driveability.

As for power source mounting some vehicles afford a good size option for fuel tank removal and using those spaces with customer racks or pods. And others still have flexibility to use space within frame rails (as no exhaust issues to worry about) as well as the prior fuel tank space. You'd be amazed as to some of the the mounting options that still keep a vehicle crash safe. We all know most people probably 99 percent (no I didn't look it up, just used based on family and friends who all have been in a wreck ever that I know of and took average) or so have had fender bender or outright wreck. That and most people these days have no consideration for knocking someone's vehicle I the parking lot or hitting someone vehicle and never say anything. I've personally installed a number of different types of power sources within existing space and had a few where we made space out of something that wasn't originally intended for use of anything. Many have the mis conception that all power sources are a single unit and no way to split them up. Depending on what you want price, range, or flexibility there are so many configurations available. Again cost is a huge factor for most even when they tell you money is no object lol yeah ok money bags. We have had a few that gave specific limits ($$$) that felt like the possibilities were endless.

As for drive and control systems there are already numerous options and have been for years. Yes things have been progressing on the drive units speed, torque, combinations of both, voltages, kw, and numerous other factors. Similarly the control units have gone frome very simplistic resistor and solid state to electronic, and more so now software driven devices. Options are really only limited to your budget, research and desire to find what you're trying to accomplish.


Short of everything is that if it has some other sort of power unit, it can be converted to electric drive. I have previously done several conversions in D2s amongst many other typical vehicles. It has been done and can be done. And no it doesn't have to cost 30k to do it and do it well. One of them (D2) was done for less than 10k still gets about 275 miles to a charge and is used for daily commute. Yes we used the original transmission, xfer case, and remaining drive line. Motor was a single unit adapted to the transmission and power supply was a lithium cell based setup that took place of the original fuel tank, some extra space used between frame rails, in the engine bay and even a little in sealed vented cases in place of the rear interior cargo pods. Off road didn't do so well for range but then it's a pretty good gap even using ice. Oh yes we got to test drive the vehicle on road and off road before and after conversion using full fuel tank and full cell pack in both conditions. When you consider wheel slippage to drive output off road it works out.

I do currently have a possible setup in mind for one of our D2s (my wife and I) if one of the motors gives out. Since it is my own vehicle I can be a bit more detailed, dual motor configuration to existing auto transmission, enough lithium battery cells to take up the space under vehicle I've used before and take some of the cargo area space similar to adding utility drawer box that stands about 12-18 inches above the original floor deck. Yes weight balancing is a factor in my setup. The control system is a single dual drive controller that is very software customizable.

I am actively at home working on a special project motorcycle using original gearbox and drive with a three phase a/c motor and a custom regenerative system (of my own design) that the company I work for is helping fund to get up and running. Basically the goal for the bike is to have a range of 300+ miles, too speed of at least 140mph, and still weigh the same or less than the original. As of this point it's going to weigh in less by over 100lbs using a battery pack setup that cost about $2700 by itself, running a 48 volt 7kw three phase a/c motor ($1000), fully working lights, abs, traction control, and some other bonus features due to the nature of parts being used. Reacharge time about 3 hours using a standard charger. Charger cost about $800. Donor bike $500. Originally a 750cc powerplant, 6 speed gearbox and one of the lightest/narrowest production frames ever made for it's class. It first was built direct drive to see what was needed to get it running. It did get about 100 mile range but top speed wasn't all that. I think the bike topped out around 70mph. And has since been torn down for the complete permanent retrofit.

I guess if you've read all of this you'll come out thinking damn I want one or what a load of crap. I hear this sort of thing all the time when I tell people what I do when asked. Funny to see people's faces when you shoot past them in a silent vehicle that moves faster than their 60k new car. One of the fun ones was a golf cart body conversion to look like an old 50s Chevy. Started out doing 15 mph after we got done with the structural upgrades and all. It would do wheelies and run about 60 mph. Was a blast to play with before we had to give it back to the customer.