Three electrical DII issues.
#1
Three electrical DII issues.
Hello Everyone,
My wife and I just purchased a 2004 Discovery and everything seems to work well and it runs good except for three issues.
The first is the ignition. If I turn the key to start the engine sometimes it does nothing at all. I did notice the dash lights dim while doing this. I had the battery tested and it is perfectly fine. If I turn and hold the key sometimes it fires up instantly. Bad ground maybe? Not sure where to look. The second issue is the dash lights go off when I turn the headlights on. They return when I turn the headlights off. There must be a short or something, but I cannot find it. The last thing is my rear window wiper stopped working the second I tried it for the first time. It moved maybe 2 inches and then just stopped where it was. I have checked all the fuses and I cannot find any blown.
I am starting my 60,000 mile service and I am about 1/3 of the way through. Any help on the electrical would be excellent.
Thank You,
Mike
My wife and I just purchased a 2004 Discovery and everything seems to work well and it runs good except for three issues.
The first is the ignition. If I turn the key to start the engine sometimes it does nothing at all. I did notice the dash lights dim while doing this. I had the battery tested and it is perfectly fine. If I turn and hold the key sometimes it fires up instantly. Bad ground maybe? Not sure where to look. The second issue is the dash lights go off when I turn the headlights on. They return when I turn the headlights off. There must be a short or something, but I cannot find it. The last thing is my rear window wiper stopped working the second I tried it for the first time. It moved maybe 2 inches and then just stopped where it was. I have checked all the fuses and I cannot find any blown.
I am starting my 60,000 mile service and I am about 1/3 of the way through. Any help on the electrical would be excellent.
Thank You,
Mike
#2
Dash lights sounds like the switch in the stalk, a modest DIY project.
Dim lights at start, trouble starting, battery tests good by folks that really want to sell you a battery - I would suspect a voltage drop cause by one, or more likely, several of these points:
Battery terminals, clean and clean posts, and wire connectors to same.
Main fuse box under hood - locate two largest cables, that would be battery and alternator - with main battery disconnected clean these guys as well - all the electronics other than the starter goes through here.
Alternator may not be charging battery enough, but your test should have caught that. If you have a voltmeter, measure volts across battery when truck off. Should be above 12. Turn on head lights, to add some load. Should still be above 12. A battery with a dead cell willl drop off quickly with any load. Crank truck. Voltage should come up to 13.6 - 14.2, which shows that alternator is capable of charging battery, even with some extra load. Turn off head lights and voltage should be 13.8 - 14.2.
There is also the shift interlock (try in starting in "N" instead of "P") and immobilzation by alarm interface to consider
For the wiper, look at this from the RAVE:
compartment fusebox and from the fusebox to the ignition switch on an N wire.
Looks like there are fuses in two places to check.
.
Beyond that it's time to download the RAVE, the circuit diagrams are in a separate file from electrical troubleshooting manual and work shop manual.
Taking rear door panel off is a chore, be careful and use upholstery remove tool (plastic, $5 for a set at parts house). You will tear up some of the retaining fasteners and back side of the door panel.
Dim lights at start, trouble starting, battery tests good by folks that really want to sell you a battery - I would suspect a voltage drop cause by one, or more likely, several of these points:
Battery terminals, clean and clean posts, and wire connectors to same.
Main fuse box under hood - locate two largest cables, that would be battery and alternator - with main battery disconnected clean these guys as well - all the electronics other than the starter goes through here.
Alternator may not be charging battery enough, but your test should have caught that. If you have a voltmeter, measure volts across battery when truck off. Should be above 12. Turn on head lights, to add some load. Should still be above 12. A battery with a dead cell willl drop off quickly with any load. Crank truck. Voltage should come up to 13.6 - 14.2, which shows that alternator is capable of charging battery, even with some extra load. Turn off head lights and voltage should be 13.8 - 14.2.
There is also the shift interlock (try in starting in "N" instead of "P") and immobilzation by alarm interface to consider
For the wiper, look at this from the RAVE:
OPERATION
Rear Wiper and Washers Supply
Circuit supply
A feed from the battery positive terminal is connected on an R wire to the engine
compartment fusebox, where it passes through fusible links 1, 7 and 8. Fusible links 1 and
7 are connected in series.
A feed from fusible links 1 and 7 is connected to the contacts of the auxiliary circuits relay
located in the engine compartment fusebox.
A feed from fusible link 8 is connected from the fusebox, on an NW wire, to the passenger
Rear Wiper and Washers Supply
Circuit supply
A feed from the battery positive terminal is connected on an R wire to the engine
compartment fusebox, where it passes through fusible links 1, 7 and 8. Fusible links 1 and
7 are connected in series.
A feed from fusible links 1 and 7 is connected to the contacts of the auxiliary circuits relay
located in the engine compartment fusebox.
A feed from fusible link 8 is connected from the fusebox, on an NW wire, to the passenger
compartment fusebox and from the fusebox to the ignition switch on an N wire.
Looks like there are fuses in two places to check.
.
Beyond that it's time to download the RAVE, the circuit diagrams are in a separate file from electrical troubleshooting manual and work shop manual.
Taking rear door panel off is a chore, be careful and use upholstery remove tool (plastic, $5 for a set at parts house). You will tear up some of the retaining fasteners and back side of the door panel.
#3
Dash lights sounds like the switch in the stalk, a modest DIY project.
Dim lights at start, trouble starting, battery tests good by folks that really want to sell you a battery - I would suspect a voltage drop cause by one, or more likely, several of these points:
Battery terminals, clean and clean posts, and wire connectors to same.
Main fuse box under hood - locate two largest cables, that would be battery and alternator - with main battery disconnected clean these guys as well - all the electronics other than the starter goes through here.
Alternator may not be charging battery enough, but your test should have caught that. If you have a voltmeter, measure volts across battery when truck off. Should be above 12. Turn on head lights, to add some load. Should still be above 12. A battery with a dead cell willl drop off quickly with any load. Crank truck. Voltage should come up to 13.6 - 14.2, which shows that alternator is capable of charging battery, even with some extra load. Turn off head lights and voltage should be 13.8 - 14.2.
There is also the shift interlock (try in starting in "N" instead of "P") and immobilzation by alarm interface to consider
For the wiper, look at this from the RAVE:
compartment fusebox and from the fusebox to the ignition switch on an N wire.
Looks like there are fuses in two places to check.
.
Beyond that it's time to download the RAVE, the circuit diagrams are in a separate file from electrical troubleshooting manual and work shop manual.
Taking rear door panel off is a chore, be careful and use upholstery remove tool (plastic, $5 for a set at parts house). You will tear up some of the retaining fasteners and back side of the door panel.
Dim lights at start, trouble starting, battery tests good by folks that really want to sell you a battery - I would suspect a voltage drop cause by one, or more likely, several of these points:
Battery terminals, clean and clean posts, and wire connectors to same.
Main fuse box under hood - locate two largest cables, that would be battery and alternator - with main battery disconnected clean these guys as well - all the electronics other than the starter goes through here.
Alternator may not be charging battery enough, but your test should have caught that. If you have a voltmeter, measure volts across battery when truck off. Should be above 12. Turn on head lights, to add some load. Should still be above 12. A battery with a dead cell willl drop off quickly with any load. Crank truck. Voltage should come up to 13.6 - 14.2, which shows that alternator is capable of charging battery, even with some extra load. Turn off head lights and voltage should be 13.8 - 14.2.
There is also the shift interlock (try in starting in "N" instead of "P") and immobilzation by alarm interface to consider
For the wiper, look at this from the RAVE:
OPERATION
Rear Wiper and Washers Supply
Circuit supply
A feed from the battery positive terminal is connected on an R wire to the engine
compartment fusebox, where it passes through fusible links 1, 7 and 8. Fusible links 1 and
7 are connected in series.
A feed from fusible links 1 and 7 is connected to the contacts of the auxiliary circuits relay
located in the engine compartment fusebox.
A feed from fusible link 8 is connected from the fusebox, on an NW wire, to the passenger
Rear Wiper and Washers Supply
Circuit supply
A feed from the battery positive terminal is connected on an R wire to the engine
compartment fusebox, where it passes through fusible links 1, 7 and 8. Fusible links 1 and
7 are connected in series.
A feed from fusible links 1 and 7 is connected to the contacts of the auxiliary circuits relay
located in the engine compartment fusebox.
A feed from fusible link 8 is connected from the fusebox, on an NW wire, to the passenger
compartment fusebox and from the fusebox to the ignition switch on an N wire.
Looks like there are fuses in two places to check.
.
Beyond that it's time to download the RAVE, the circuit diagrams are in a separate file from electrical troubleshooting manual and work shop manual.
Taking rear door panel off is a chore, be careful and use upholstery remove tool (plastic, $5 for a set at parts house). You will tear up some of the retaining fasteners and back side of the door panel.
Thank You again,
--Mike
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Paul Grant
Retired - Private For Sale/Trade Classifieds
16
05-15-2015 06:32 PM
Paul Grant
Retired - Private For Sale/Trade Classifieds
0
03-30-2012 10:29 AM