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Three electrical DII issues.

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  #1  
Old 09-29-2011, 07:09 AM
mj_duell's Avatar
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Default Three electrical DII issues.

Hello Everyone,
My wife and I just purchased a 2004 Discovery and everything seems to work well and it runs good except for three issues.

The first is the ignition. If I turn the key to start the engine sometimes it does nothing at all. I did notice the dash lights dim while doing this. I had the battery tested and it is perfectly fine. If I turn and hold the key sometimes it fires up instantly. Bad ground maybe? Not sure where to look. The second issue is the dash lights go off when I turn the headlights on. They return when I turn the headlights off. There must be a short or something, but I cannot find it. The last thing is my rear window wiper stopped working the second I tried it for the first time. It moved maybe 2 inches and then just stopped where it was. I have checked all the fuses and I cannot find any blown.

I am starting my 60,000 mile service and I am about 1/3 of the way through. Any help on the electrical would be excellent.

Thank You,

Mike
 
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Old 09-29-2011, 08:28 AM
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Dash lights sounds like the switch in the stalk, a modest DIY project.

Dim lights at start, trouble starting, battery tests good by folks that really want to sell you a battery - I would suspect a voltage drop cause by one, or more likely, several of these points:

Battery terminals, clean and clean posts, and wire connectors to same.

Main fuse box under hood - locate two largest cables, that would be battery and alternator - with main battery disconnected clean these guys as well - all the electronics other than the starter goes through here.

Alternator may not be charging battery enough, but your test should have caught that. If you have a voltmeter, measure volts across battery when truck off. Should be above 12. Turn on head lights, to add some load. Should still be above 12. A battery with a dead cell willl drop off quickly with any load. Crank truck. Voltage should come up to 13.6 - 14.2, which shows that alternator is capable of charging battery, even with some extra load. Turn off head lights and voltage should be 13.8 - 14.2.


There is also the shift interlock (try in starting in "N" instead of "P") and immobilzation by alarm interface to consider


For the wiper, look at this from the RAVE:

OPERATION
Rear Wiper and Washers Supply
Circuit supply
A feed from the battery positive terminal is connected on an R wire to the engine
compartment fusebox, where it passes through fusible links 1, 7 and 8. Fusible links 1 and
7 are connected in series.
A feed from fusible links 1 and 7 is connected to the contacts of the auxiliary circuits relay
located in the engine compartment fusebox.
A feed from fusible link 8 is connected from the fusebox, on an NW wire, to the passenger

compartment fusebox and from the fusebox to the ignition switch on an N wire.

Looks like there are fuses in two places to check.

.

Beyond that it's time to download the RAVE, the circuit diagrams are in a separate file from electrical troubleshooting manual and work shop manual.

Taking rear door panel off is a chore, be careful and use upholstery remove tool (plastic, $5 for a set at parts house). You will tear up some of the retaining fasteners and back side of the door panel.
 
  #3  
Old 09-29-2011, 09:28 AM
mj_duell's Avatar
Three Wheeling
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Outer Banks North Carolina
Posts: 78
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by Savannah Buzz
Dash lights sounds like the switch in the stalk, a modest DIY project.

Dim lights at start, trouble starting, battery tests good by folks that really want to sell you a battery - I would suspect a voltage drop cause by one, or more likely, several of these points:

Battery terminals, clean and clean posts, and wire connectors to same.

Main fuse box under hood - locate two largest cables, that would be battery and alternator - with main battery disconnected clean these guys as well - all the electronics other than the starter goes through here.

Alternator may not be charging battery enough, but your test should have caught that. If you have a voltmeter, measure volts across battery when truck off. Should be above 12. Turn on head lights, to add some load. Should still be above 12. A battery with a dead cell willl drop off quickly with any load. Crank truck. Voltage should come up to 13.6 - 14.2, which shows that alternator is capable of charging battery, even with some extra load. Turn off head lights and voltage should be 13.8 - 14.2.


There is also the shift interlock (try in starting in "N" instead of "P") and immobilzation by alarm interface to consider


For the wiper, look at this from the RAVE:

OPERATION
Rear Wiper and Washers Supply
Circuit supply
A feed from the battery positive terminal is connected on an R wire to the engine
compartment fusebox, where it passes through fusible links 1, 7 and 8. Fusible links 1 and
7 are connected in series.
A feed from fusible links 1 and 7 is connected to the contacts of the auxiliary circuits relay
located in the engine compartment fusebox.
A feed from fusible link 8 is connected from the fusebox, on an NW wire, to the passenger

compartment fusebox and from the fusebox to the ignition switch on an N wire.

Looks like there are fuses in two places to check.

.

Beyond that it's time to download the RAVE, the circuit diagrams are in a separate file from electrical troubleshooting manual and work shop manual.

Taking rear door panel off is a chore, be careful and use upholstery remove tool (plastic, $5 for a set at parts house). You will tear up some of the retaining fasteners and back side of the door panel.
Thank You very very much! I have already downloaded the RAVE and will get to work on what you suggested.

Thank You again,

--Mike
 
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