Time for an alternator, it seems
#11
06-04-2018, 08:57 PM
Pro Wrench
Parts Player Alternator’s have worked great for me. Rebuilt locally is fine, and we use American parts is fine “if” they actually do.
I knew a guy that insisted he rebuild his D1’s alternator vs a Parts Player replacement. It maybe lasted 3-5 months the first time, got fixed again under the shops warranty after he got stranded out at the lake miles from nowhere, then he let his wife drive it & it kicked the bucket on her. He eventually had me slap in a Parts Player unit & he’s been going strong since. His rebuilt unit is a spare now.
I also had another friend that inisted on his Ford’s alternator get rebuilt. It didn’t last a week..... he took it back & they just got him a replacement and didn’t charge him.
My brother had his RRC alternator rebuilt and it also failed like 2 weeks later with what they called “upgraded” parts. He took it back, they rebuilt it again and so far so good.
Honestly Auto Zone/Oreilly’s will have a longer warranty than most rebuilt at a shop and if it dies you have a better chance of getting a replacement vs being nowhere near the shop that rebuilt it.
For me it’s Parts Player, or spares from pick n pull lots.
I knew a guy that insisted he rebuild his D1’s alternator vs a Parts Player replacement. It maybe lasted 3-5 months the first time, got fixed again under the shops warranty after he got stranded out at the lake miles from nowhere, then he let his wife drive it & it kicked the bucket on her. He eventually had me slap in a Parts Player unit & he’s been going strong since. His rebuilt unit is a spare now.
I also had another friend that inisted on his Ford’s alternator get rebuilt. It didn’t last a week..... he took it back & they just got him a replacement and didn’t charge him.
My brother had his RRC alternator rebuilt and it also failed like 2 weeks later with what they called “upgraded” parts. He took it back, they rebuilt it again and so far so good.
Honestly Auto Zone/Oreilly’s will have a longer warranty than most rebuilt at a shop and if it dies you have a better chance of getting a replacement vs being nowhere near the shop that rebuilt it.
For me it’s Parts Player, or spares from pick n pull lots.
#12
06-04-2018, 09:09 PM
Super Moderator
Dunno one guy was from Houston, Brother is from the PNW, and the guy with the Ford was local, but had it rebuilt in LA. Local shop here tried to quote me 200.00 for a rebuild on a P38 150AMP Bosch unit. I kindly said no thanks, went to a junk yard and grabbed a perfectly good unit for 25.00 with a warranty. Then saved dead ones pulley and used it as a core.
#13
06-05-2018, 07:56 PM
I went to the local LKQ today and bought the alternator off an '04 DII. After I removed it, I was surprised to see it said it is a 120 amp unit. I thought all DIIs were 130 amps.
Given my use I believe 120 amps will be just fine, but I wanted to check to see whether or not any of you have any information or points of view about this alternator. Thanks.
Given my use I believe 120 amps will be just fine, but I wanted to check to see whether or not any of you have any information or points of view about this alternator. Thanks.
#14
06-05-2018, 09:15 PM
Super Moderator
#15
06-10-2018, 07:01 PM
Well, I installed the replacement alternator. The Ultra Gauge volts are reading in the high 13s to low 14s. I disconnected the battery and put it on the charger overnight. All seemed good, but when I took the truck on a short errand this evening the battery light came on - intermittently at first and then steadily. If the UG voltage is good, what could be the problem? (Also, when I had the charging system tested a week ago at Advance Auto the battery tested good.)
#16
07-16-2018, 09:42 AM
The battery light problem turned out to be simply because my 23-yr old son hadn't tightened the cables carefully enough. Cables tight; problem solved.
But now the odometer is flashing. I don't know what could have happened through the course of the alternator dying, the battery subsequently dying, and the alternator being replaced to cause the odometer to flash.
We know the odometer error warning is triggered by the miles stored on the BCU not matching the miles stored on the instrument pack, but that's not the case here. There is a thread here from many years ago about someone having a flashing odometer after a shop replaced the alternator, but no cause or resolution was posted.
But now the odometer is flashing. I don't know what could have happened through the course of the alternator dying, the battery subsequently dying, and the alternator being replaced to cause the odometer to flash.
We know the odometer error warning is triggered by the miles stored on the BCU not matching the miles stored on the instrument pack, but that's not the case here. There is a thread here from many years ago about someone having a flashing odometer after a shop replaced the alternator, but no cause or resolution was posted.
#17
07-17-2018, 06:52 PM
I wish I would have seen this post sooner. I did my head gaskets last week and could have let you borrow the alternator while it was out. I also have an extra one. I had mine rebuilt by a shop in N. Charlotte and it lasted a few months. The last alternator I bought was off eBay and it was new and cheap.
Also, there are 2 2004 D2’s sitting in the back field at Caroline Salvage. Both had alternators in them 2 weeks ago. One also has the beefy top rails on the roof. I got the set off the other one.
Since I’m right down the road, don’t hesitate to reach out if you need anything.
Also, there are 2 2004 D2’s sitting in the back field at Caroline Salvage. Both had alternators in them 2 weeks ago. One also has the beefy top rails on the roof. I got the set off the other one.
Since I’m right down the road, don’t hesitate to reach out if you need anything.
#18
07-20-2018, 08:11 PM
Thanks Jamie. We should get together and compare notes one day soon.
I stopped by a local Rovers-only shop right around closing time and they used their Autologic to sync the BCU and the instrument pack. No charge. It helps that I developed a (minor) relationship with them over the last few years, even though I told them up front that I would never be a good customer for them since I do most things myself. They're good guys.
I stopped by a local Rovers-only shop right around closing time and they used their Autologic to sync the BCU and the instrument pack. No charge. It helps that I developed a (minor) relationship with them over the last few years, even though I told them up front that I would never be a good customer for them since I do most things myself. They're good guys.
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