Time for a frame swap, anyone done this?
#1
10-24-2017 | 04:25 PM
Thread Starter
|
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 33
Likes: 3
Time for a frame swap, anyone done this?
My 00 disco was recently diagnosed with terminal frame cancer. Refusing to accept this diagnosis, I secured a used rust-free frame that will be arriving next week. I have never taken on an automotive project of this magnitude before but I'm a mechanical engineer so I figured I should be able to figure it out. Anyone done this project before and have any advice on specific unexpected issues I may encounter? I've seen a youtube timelapse video of two guys installing a galvanized frame, but I haven't heard of anyone doing a DIY disco II frame swap. I'd like to be as well prepared as possible before I get into it so this doesn't turn into a year long project. Thanks!
#2
10-24-2017 | 04:51 PM
Step 1.
Take your time. If this is your daily and you think you can do this in a weekend, then just send your truck back to the shop and have them do it. Because it isn't going to happen.
Step 2.
Break it down into pieces. Everything on the front axle should be one assembly. Same for the rear. Engine,Trans and Transfer-case, one assembly. Body, One shot.
Step 3.
Organization. Keeping everything organized will go a long way on re-assembly.
Step 4.
There is a lot to be said for a lack of lubrication. Some people swear by WD40. Others swear by PB blaster. I'm a Justice Brothers kinda guy myself. Lubing bolts, nuts, etc, will go a long way. A little heat as well never hurts.
Step 4
A good set of tools will help. Harbour Freight tools will only get you so far. Not saying shell out for Snap-On tools, but Sears stuff is decent. and their warranty isn't bad either.
Step 5
Wait, you are a Mechanical Engineer. This is critical, DON'T OVERTHINK IT. Keep it Simple. NO offense, but most of engineers I have meet, unless they have automotive experience, tend to overthink things.
Good luck
Take your time. If this is your daily and you think you can do this in a weekend, then just send your truck back to the shop and have them do it. Because it isn't going to happen.
Step 2.
Break it down into pieces. Everything on the front axle should be one assembly. Same for the rear. Engine,Trans and Transfer-case, one assembly. Body, One shot.
Step 3.
Organization. Keeping everything organized will go a long way on re-assembly.
Step 4.
There is a lot to be said for a lack of lubrication. Some people swear by WD40. Others swear by PB blaster. I'm a Justice Brothers kinda guy myself. Lubing bolts, nuts, etc, will go a long way. A little heat as well never hurts.
Step 4
A good set of tools will help. Harbour Freight tools will only get you so far. Not saying shell out for Snap-On tools, but Sears stuff is decent. and their warranty isn't bad either.
Step 5
Wait, you are a Mechanical Engineer. This is critical, DON'T OVERTHINK IT. Keep it Simple. NO offense, but most of engineers I have meet, unless they have automotive experience, tend to overthink things.
Good luck
#3
10-24-2017 | 05:02 PM
#5
10-24-2017 | 05:39 PM
Baja
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 5,845
Likes: 368
From: Near Bordeaux, France
You are about to embark on a massive project and it won't be simple. You ideally need a 2 or 4 post vehicle lift but it's possible without one. Firstly, observe ALL of the commonsense rules about personal safety and don't take risks. It may take you weeks or months to complete the project but don't rush and take a lot of photos before each segment of work. If this is your daily driver it may be out of commission for sometime so ensure you have alternative transport available. Good luck and seriously consider whether to galvanise your replacement frame/chassis before you start the work. Good luck and keep us posted on progress.
#6
10-24-2017 | 06:13 PM
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 854
Likes: 154
The following users liked this post:
Massrover (11-28-2021)
#7
10-24-2017 | 06:27 PM
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 854
Likes: 154
#9
10-24-2017 | 07:05 PM
Thread Starter
|
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 33
Likes: 3
Hi everyone, thanks for all the input. To answer some questions:
1. I understand this is a huge project and doesn't make sense to most people. I tend to take on one stupidly large project per year. Last year I completely rehabed a '75 Boston whaler 16' that had been smashed to bits and left for dead. The year before that I gutted and rehabbed most of my 1790's house. This year, it's time for the rover. They all seem crazy but I get them done and done well.
2. To all the people who say "buy a rust free one and go from there".... those don't exist in New England and by the time I go to Arizona to find one and spend $5k on it and the cost of flying and/or transporting across country it gets ridiculous for a toy.
3. This is not my daily driver! It is strictly a project car. I normally drive a '15 GMC sierra
4. I do not have a lift but I don't see any reason why a Kubota tractor, some sailboat stands, and some 2x4s won't be enough to allow me to lift the body up and roll the chassis out from under it.
5. I plan to have the new frame coated before the swap
6. The rear half frame replacement is not a good option. The entire frame is pretty well cooked, especially the area where the new frame section would connect to the old one. Also, those frame sections are $1200 + freight from rovers north, and when I was done it would still never be perfect. I just bought a perfect 2004 frame with no rust for $650. Seems like a no-brainer to me.
7. The way I see it, the 2000 disco was the last best solid axle land rover ever made. It has the 4.0 (more reliable than 4.6) and it still had the cdl in the t-case (yes, I have a d1 linkage). This truck is special in my opinion, and I figure if i swap the frame and make it close to perfect condition, then use it lightly and keep it in my garage then in 20 years I am going to have a very cool and very rare truck. I know it sounds crazy, but these frames sucked and they are all rotting away (especially in NE) and most of them are going to be left for dead sooner rather than later.
To the one guy who actually gave advice instead if telling me I'm crazy, thank you!
1. I understand this is a huge project and doesn't make sense to most people. I tend to take on one stupidly large project per year. Last year I completely rehabed a '75 Boston whaler 16' that had been smashed to bits and left for dead. The year before that I gutted and rehabbed most of my 1790's house. This year, it's time for the rover. They all seem crazy but I get them done and done well.
2. To all the people who say "buy a rust free one and go from there".... those don't exist in New England and by the time I go to Arizona to find one and spend $5k on it and the cost of flying and/or transporting across country it gets ridiculous for a toy.
3. This is not my daily driver! It is strictly a project car. I normally drive a '15 GMC sierra
4. I do not have a lift but I don't see any reason why a Kubota tractor, some sailboat stands, and some 2x4s won't be enough to allow me to lift the body up and roll the chassis out from under it.
5. I plan to have the new frame coated before the swap
6. The rear half frame replacement is not a good option. The entire frame is pretty well cooked, especially the area where the new frame section would connect to the old one. Also, those frame sections are $1200 + freight from rovers north, and when I was done it would still never be perfect. I just bought a perfect 2004 frame with no rust for $650. Seems like a no-brainer to me.
7. The way I see it, the 2000 disco was the last best solid axle land rover ever made. It has the 4.0 (more reliable than 4.6) and it still had the cdl in the t-case (yes, I have a d1 linkage). This truck is special in my opinion, and I figure if i swap the frame and make it close to perfect condition, then use it lightly and keep it in my garage then in 20 years I am going to have a very cool and very rare truck. I know it sounds crazy, but these frames sucked and they are all rotting away (especially in NE) and most of them are going to be left for dead sooner rather than later.
To the one guy who actually gave advice instead if telling me I'm crazy, thank you!
Last edited by Shaky Disco; 10-24-2017 at 07:45 PM.
#10
10-24-2017 | 10:42 PM
Hi everyone, thanks for all the input. To answer some questions:
1. I understand this is a huge project and doesn't make sense to most people. I tend to take on one stupidly large project per year. Last year I completely rehabed a '75 Boston whaler 16' that had been smashed to bits and left for dead. The year before that I gutted and rehabbed most of my 1790's house. This year, it's time for the rover. They all seem crazy but I get them done and done well.
2. To all the people who say "buy a rust free one and go from there".... those don't exist in New England and by the time I go to Arizona to find one and spend $5k on it and the cost of flying and/or transporting across country it gets ridiculous for a toy.
3. This is not my daily driver! It is strictly a project car. I normally drive a '15 GMC sierra
4. I do not have a lift but I don't see any reason why a Kubota tractor, some sailboat stands, and some 2x4s won't be enough to allow me to lift the body up and roll the chassis out from under it.
5. I plan to have the new frame coated before the swap
6. The rear half frame replacement is not a good option. The entire frame is pretty well cooked, especially the area where the new frame section would connect to the old one. Also, those frame sections are $1200 + freight from rovers north, and when I was done it would still never be perfect. I just bought a perfect 2004 frame with no rust for $650. Seems like a no-brainer to me.
7. The way I see it, the 2000 disco was the last best solid axle land rover ever made. It has the 4.0 (more reliable than 4.6) and it still had the cdl in the t-case (yes, I have a d1 linkage). This truck is special in my opinion, and I figure if i swap the frame and make it close to perfect condition, then use it lightly and keep it in my garage then in 20 years I am going to have a very cool and very rare truck. I know it sounds crazy, but these frames sucked and they are all rotting away (especially in NE) and most of them are going to be left for dead sooner rather than later.
To the one guy who actually gave advice instead if telling me I'm crazy, thank you!
1. I understand this is a huge project and doesn't make sense to most people. I tend to take on one stupidly large project per year. Last year I completely rehabed a '75 Boston whaler 16' that had been smashed to bits and left for dead. The year before that I gutted and rehabbed most of my 1790's house. This year, it's time for the rover. They all seem crazy but I get them done and done well.
2. To all the people who say "buy a rust free one and go from there".... those don't exist in New England and by the time I go to Arizona to find one and spend $5k on it and the cost of flying and/or transporting across country it gets ridiculous for a toy.
3. This is not my daily driver! It is strictly a project car. I normally drive a '15 GMC sierra
4. I do not have a lift but I don't see any reason why a Kubota tractor, some sailboat stands, and some 2x4s won't be enough to allow me to lift the body up and roll the chassis out from under it.
5. I plan to have the new frame coated before the swap
6. The rear half frame replacement is not a good option. The entire frame is pretty well cooked, especially the area where the new frame section would connect to the old one. Also, those frame sections are $1200 + freight from rovers north, and when I was done it would still never be perfect. I just bought a perfect 2004 frame with no rust for $650. Seems like a no-brainer to me.
7. The way I see it, the 2000 disco was the last best solid axle land rover ever made. It has the 4.0 (more reliable than 4.6) and it still had the cdl in the t-case (yes, I have a d1 linkage). This truck is special in my opinion, and I figure if i swap the frame and make it close to perfect condition, then use it lightly and keep it in my garage then in 20 years I am going to have a very cool and very rare truck. I know it sounds crazy, but these frames sucked and they are all rotting away (especially in NE) and most of them are going to be left for dead sooner rather than later.
To the one guy who actually gave advice instead if telling me I'm crazy, thank you!
1. A boston whaler retains its value, as does a house, a disco does not
2. I've seen rust free ones as recently as 2 years ago with ZERO rust in western Mass for 1500
3. A disco 2 shouldn't be a project car unless you're doing something crazy with it, otherwise there's no reason to bother
4. That'll work, but again, not worth the effort.
5. There's a good galvanizer in the Boston area, go in with a few other people to save $$
6. That was a better decision
7. Don't waste your time with a D2 V8. 4.0 or 4.6, it doesn't matter. In the end the survival rate drops to zero(to quote a certain movie)
I enjoyed my D2, it was definitely fun. If I really wanted to keep it, I would have done an LS swap. The Rover V8 is garbage.