-I had an Indy shop do the wires and plugs. I assumed they checked the gaps as they were very good about rechecking everything a week later when the check engine light came on.
-Coolant level has been dropping, noting severe but for the last year I have been monitoring it and oil. Both seem to take more between oil changes. This last trip after approximately 1600 miles I added 1 qt oil and I added liquid aluminum to the coolant reservoir the first time.
-I am not sure how to check arcing. I have observed nothing like what I think that means with the hood up/engine running but I am probably not checking what you mean.
-No white smoke. No sweet smell.

 

I have no idea on the O2 sensors. I assumed they have been changed as part of scheduled service but do not know for certain. I have all paperwork from everything ever done to the Disco so tomorrow I will pull the packet out and look for both the O2 sensors and the MAF. Until you question I had never heard of either of these. Thank you very much for the suggestion.

 

 

O2 sensors and MAF are not regular maintenance, they're a replace when failed part.

 

If you cant do simple maintenance like change the oil, then yeah I would trade it in. Its not worth the cost to keep these trucks on the road if you pay someone to keep it running. Get something afew years old thats still under warranty.

If this truck isnt your daily driver and you want to start maintaining it yourself, you dont need a garage. Most issues with these trucks can be fixed with basic tools and with patience. There is tons of information online on these trucks. I spend 90% of the time reading and researching and then 10% actually wrenching on the vehicle when I'm fixing an issue. But I have other cars to drive when my disco is in the driveway for a week or two while I'm finishing a repair.

As for your misfire issue, in my opinion, you first need a code reader so you can pinpoint what the truck's computer is telling you. Reset the codes then drive it and see what codes come back. Multiple misfires could be caused by a bunch of things that probably isnt anything major like head gaskets. You just need to confirm this by reading the codes and seeing where the fault is. And I would flush out that liquid aluminum right away. All its doing is hiding whatever leak you have; its better to just fix it right the first time. And its normal to lose abit of coolant and oil every few 1000's of miles. I check both everytime I fill it up with gas. As long as its losing fluids at a slow steady pace then its nothing to worry about. If you are losing 1L of coolant every 500 miles then yeah its time to figure out where its going. As for oil, its normal to lose abit as some of it gets burnt off when it blows past the piston rings or from the crankcase ventilation and abit will leak from the gaskets.

Most of us on this forum could afford newer land rovers, but atleast in my opinion, the disco 2 is a much better truck then nearly all the other trucks available. Its 4x4 with solid axles with a tough chassis while also having heated leather seats plus a heated windshield. It also has low range and a locking center diff (2004 or if you have that option installed) which makes this truck great to drive around when there is a half of a foot of snow on the streets.

I would disagree. They will wear out over time and the ECU will try to compensate but its best to replace at a set interval like every 75k miles. Compare a scope reading of an old O2 sensor against and new one and the new one will switch faster.

But if you're saying "dont throw parts at an unknown problem" then yeah I will agree with you on that.

 

That's what I'm saying. No need to throw parts at it and hope for the best. Proper diagnosis is key.

 

How do you know if they have failed? What is the test? I would have assumed the diagnostics would have identified that.

 

 

As a start I ordered a used MAF. I will swap that out and see if there is any improvement.

 

You can test O2s but monitoring the voltage swings while driving and at idle in drive. They will swing fast, if they're slow, it's time to replace. MAF can be tested by using a meter and watching voltage at various RPMs. You'd have to cross check to see if they line up with factory specs, or you can monitor the air flow reading while driving and at idle in drive. It's best to test under load, since that's when 90% of issues take place.