The link worked perfectly well for me just now.

 

I just tried again and it says"the site is currently unavailable."

 

My mistake. I was hitting the wrong link. I missed the "here" link. It works.

 

Yesterday I swapped plugs 8 and 6. The same error codes came back, P0328, P0300, P0305 and P1300. Today I installed a code reader (rather than taking it to AutoZone) and the codes read P0308 and P0300. I will next swap the ignition cable ends on 8 and 7 to see if the P0308 stays. I started to mess with it today but the record cold stopped me. As I tinkered I began to wonder if the two cables long enough to go from one side to the other. If the weather improves in the next day or so I will get this done.

 

Hello to anyone still curious. It has been a while since I posted anything or had anything to report. I have an update.

I just finished relocating the coils via Gerry Condez's relocation kit. I put in new coils, new Champion spark plugs and new custom length ignition wires. Prior to that I replaced the O2 sensors with new ones and installed a used MAS. I also put in a code reader that links to my phone. Because it took a while for all the parts to arrive the car sat and was not driven much for the last 8 weeks. I started it every week or so to keep the battery charged.

Today I tested it after doing the above work and the check engine light still flashes but the code reader read no pending codes. The brake light came did not turn off after releasing the hand brake but flashed on and off while I drove it about 8 miles. By the time I got home the brake light stayed off but the check engine light stays on. The code reader gave P166e as the only pending fault. Not sure what to make if it. Any advice is welcome.

 

P1666 Engine anti-theft signal circuit malfunction BCU serial link frame/ bit timing error
P1667 Engine anti-theft signal circuit low Serial link short circuit to earth
P1668 Engine anti-theft signal circuit high Serial link open circuit

Not sure what to make of it. Check the anti-theft wiring?

 

Does the car run well? Does the light flash at idle, driving, both? Only when cold, only when hot? both?

I have been in an out of the thread, but you have replaced enough parts for now, let's stop throwing $ and parts at it and start doing deductive analysis on the problem.

There are a number of test we can do to determine what is wrong and what is going on, but we have to do them one at a time and get reports back after each test.

I have had 12 Discos and have developed a number of test to be able to narrow down problems. Most involve disconnecting or swapping various sensors and devices left to right and then observing the reaction to determine if it is sensor or device problem.

Your relocated coils will make troubleshooting much easier and faster.

So lets get started, go back to the first question I asked today, and lets start there.

 

Question 1:
The car runs like before, a little rough. The Check Engine light flashes both while driving and at idle. While driving it sometimes quits flashing but stays solid. This is both right after start up and after warmed up. The brake light comes on and off while driving. Sometime it goes off while stopping and it goes off after parking.

 

You are in Reston, call LoudonRoVa
Loudoun RoVa LLC - Virginia - USA
(703) 627-6594

There is also British 4x4 in Springfield:
https://www.british4x4.com/
703-493-1432

I will say that LoudounRoVa would always have a ton of trucks being worked on when i'd pass by their shop on 50, but I am under the impression they moved per their website. Spoke to them the other day about a potential project truck. Good luck!

 

I called them this afternoon and explained my issue. The guy told me 99% I have fallen cylinder sleeves. He said it would cost about $12000 to put in a rebuilt engine. I don't think I want to invest that amount. If he is correct I am back to my original question, is it time to sell, and I am leaning to the "yes" answer.