So I am in the middle of replacing my oil gears in my non tsb disco II '03. I had a tap tap tap and started noticing my oil light was not going out as quick as I would like unless I parked down hill. Read another post and decided to go in...low and behold my outer ring was in two pieces with a little scoring around the outer broken ring. The toughest thing so far was the crankshaft bolt. I ended up wedging a wooden hammer handle in the flywheel and pb bustering it overnight. Came out the next morning with my 24mm socket and breaker bar and crawling under the truck. using my legs against the inner passenger tire I was able to break it by hand. I was very surprised. I have heard this whole process is easy but it has taken me a little while.

 

It sounds like you are coming along in the job well. A trick when you go to put the harmonic balancer pulley back on the crankshaft. Stick a lever bar back up on the flywheel teeth. It will prevent it from turning, if you can wedge it right. Also block of oak wood can do the trick too. Just remember to remove it before you put the oil pan back on!

 

That sounds like a great way to mess up and break your flywheel. Since you have the oil pan off, I think the safest way to tighten and break loose the crankshaft nut is to wedge a 2x4 up inside the block in between the crankshaft and the block so it can't turn. At least that is how most people do it on here.
Your Rover your method though

 

Yeah, being careful is the key I think. I would rather sacrifice wood than metal tho. I like disco mikes tool but i just do not have the machining tools now. thanks for the idea. I use some sense when forcing things so wish me luck. Does anyone know about a bevel on the replacement oil pump gears?

 

You can use an air impact tool and have it in the remove direction or CCW.
Then you don't have to wedge it at all.
The bolt just comes off from the inertia of the crank and flywheel being dead weight.

In fact, that is the only really good way to do it.

 

I avoided the teeth for a reason. Also bracing against the counterweights on the crank because the outer wall of the block looked thin to me but the cut outs on the flywheel looked safer because its steel and close to the turning radius. idk it worked on mine. so far...btw i had to remove 10 bolts instead of nine on my timing cover to remove it.

 

I'm sure, I just do not have access to air tools right now.

 

Oil pan on and torqued. Observed specs on timing cover and chain. Filling it with juice and starting it tomorrow. Planning on pulling the fuel relay to keep it from firing to prime the oil pump (packed it with vaso and oil). Any suggestions before I turn the key?

 

You must first take a young ford into the field and slit it's transmission line and let it bleed out to honor the Rover God's.

 

It started and runs fine. but the tic tic tic is still therenow thing aboubt new thermo, new valves and cam, mains + rods and but engine is as dry as they come no milk