I was wondering if anyone knew if the timing gear cover gasket can be replaced without replacing the sump gasket (i.e. not removing the oil pickup strainer). I replaced the water pump and all hoses. Now it is clear where exactly the leak is coming from, directly behind the lower right side of the water pump at the timing gear cover.

Also,do ineed a special tool to remove thecrankshaft pulley or can i use a strap wrench and socket?

Thanks in advance for any help.

Jesse

2000 LR Discovery II
125k

 

My indie rover shop changed mine, and they had to remove the oil sump to do so.

 

thanks for the reply, thats what i was thinking. I was hopingthere might be shortcut. Not too many shortcuts on these. thanks again

 

No special tool needed for the crank pulley, strap wrench and socket will do.

 

well the strap wrench idea didnt work. cant get the nut broken loose.

looking around a few other sites, ive gotten a couple more ideas...

a-put the socket on the bolt, brace socket drive with breaker bar on the frame and bump the ignition.
b-drop the oil pan and brace a counter weight with a wood block and break loose.
c-put the car in 1st with the hand and foot brakes on, then try and break it loose.
d-remove flywheel cover jam with a big screw driver and break loose.

anyone ever tried any of these with success?

conserning -a-, its got no oil. i dont want to screw anything up. should i remove the plug wires to insure it wont start?

any thoughts??

Thanks
jesse

 

Well you dont need to remove the plug wires to make sure it wont start, just remove the fuse for the fuel pump, no fuel no start.

If all you are doing is "bumping" the ignition to get a half rotation or so at a time...you do more damage every moring when you start it before going to work.

Most shops use a impact wrench to break the nut loose. If you have shop air and can borrow or rent a impact wrench that might be your best option.

 

Thanks Spike. Im gonna try the bumping thingcause i dont have shop air. Ill let you know how it goes.

worst case i can haulmy dad'scompressor and wrench up here, im a few hours away so id like to try and bypass that.

 

What made the strap wrench not work? Couldn't get the strap tight enough around the crank pulley to prevent it from turning? I don't have a strap wrench, instead I have a chain wrench.

I've personallynever tried method A. Even though I have air tools, my chain wrench have always held the pulley tight enough to break the boltloose. It saves me time of removing the radiator in order to getclearance for a air gun.

Method B should work

Method C will not work, reason being you have an automatic transmission. With a auto trans there is no mechanical connection between the engineand trans. If you had a manual trans, then method B would probably work

If your strap wrench isn't working, method D seems like the easiest way. Followed by method B.

Word of advise, the crank pulley bolt is extremely tight. Along with my chain wrench, I had to use a cheater pipe on my 1/2 ratchet or breaker bar.

 

well bumping the ignition worked like a charm. couldnt have gone more smoothly. now to figure out how im gonna tighen it back up...you guys think i could wait till i put the belt back on to add enough tension to be able for 2 people(one underneath holding the pulley) to get 200#?