Tips to fix sluggishness
#1
Tips to fix sluggishness
Hey all,
I am not sure how much pep I should expect for a 4WD vehicle, but my new D2 seems to be a little sluggish.
The gas pedal is a bit hard to depress, so I am planning on cleaning the throttle body and using silicone spray on the throttle cables from the throttle body down to the pedal.
When I accelerate, I hear/feel a puttering sound that sounds separate from the rest of the motor noise. I wish I could explain it better.
Anyhow, with this big new motor, I was hoping for a bit more power than I have felt. Any tips appreciated.
I am not sure how much pep I should expect for a 4WD vehicle, but my new D2 seems to be a little sluggish.
The gas pedal is a bit hard to depress, so I am planning on cleaning the throttle body and using silicone spray on the throttle cables from the throttle body down to the pedal.
When I accelerate, I hear/feel a puttering sound that sounds separate from the rest of the motor noise. I wish I could explain it better.
Anyhow, with this big new motor, I was hoping for a bit more power than I have felt. Any tips appreciated.
#2
You can start with a few tanks of top grade premium fuel, with either techron or seafoam injector cleaner in the tank... possibly a direct injector cleansing... check the plug wires to see if they are original grey... basic stuff first.
my experience is if cheap fuel is used it will take at least one tank full of top shelf fuel before the computer opens up and lets it run right. the computer will retard the timing with low octane or low quality fuel. No telling what the PO put in it. especially if it was a dealer.
I'm not sure how many drive cycles it takes to un retard the timing once you put good gas in.
I used to use cheaper (non detergent ARCO) premium 92 octane fuel and even that caused sluggish performance.
The puttering sound could be the burble of an exhaust leak, listen to see if it seems to be coming from the passenger side of the engine compartment... could be the signs of a failing SAI system.
my experience is if cheap fuel is used it will take at least one tank full of top shelf fuel before the computer opens up and lets it run right. the computer will retard the timing with low octane or low quality fuel. No telling what the PO put in it. especially if it was a dealer.
I'm not sure how many drive cycles it takes to un retard the timing once you put good gas in.
I used to use cheaper (non detergent ARCO) premium 92 octane fuel and even that caused sluggish performance.
The puttering sound could be the burble of an exhaust leak, listen to see if it seems to be coming from the passenger side of the engine compartment... could be the signs of a failing SAI system.
Last edited by Dave03S; 04-03-2012 at 07:01 PM.
#5
I had my D1 running like a champ after new plugs and wires, new fuel filter and new air filter, to name a few. Then I took the kids camping in the mountains, topped off my gas tank with 87 at the one-pump general store in the only little podunk town for 50 miles. A little over half a tank of low octane gas and it's been a toad since. Coming up on my second fill-up since- hope it improves.
#6
#9
only way to wake these up is to swap the gearing in the diffs and/or xfer case.... sacrifice some top end speed for more torques... and wear the motor out that much quicker
if you had some cash to blow, 4.6 bottom end, have the heads/manifold ported and matched, custom ground cam, lifters, reprogram, coated long tubes, open exhuast sans cats.... or get a centrifugal blower mounted but youd only be good for a few psi, like under 4 haha. then again the stock cooling system cant do its job as is id hate to see if have to keep up with upgrades lol. i dont even know if you can reprogram the ecu, and i doubt anyones made any hardware for it reguardless.
its a baby v8 that puts out roughly the samer power as the jeep inline 6 4.0. you can get 3 liter v6's that put out almost double the power now'a'days haha.... hell my motorcycle engines 1200cc's and puts out more hp and torque at roughly the same rpm hahahaha.
if you had some cash to blow, 4.6 bottom end, have the heads/manifold ported and matched, custom ground cam, lifters, reprogram, coated long tubes, open exhuast sans cats.... or get a centrifugal blower mounted but youd only be good for a few psi, like under 4 haha. then again the stock cooling system cant do its job as is id hate to see if have to keep up with upgrades lol. i dont even know if you can reprogram the ecu, and i doubt anyones made any hardware for it reguardless.
its a baby v8 that puts out roughly the samer power as the jeep inline 6 4.0. you can get 3 liter v6's that put out almost double the power now'a'days haha.... hell my motorcycle engines 1200cc's and puts out more hp and torque at roughly the same rpm hahahaha.
Last edited by grandkodiak; 04-04-2012 at 08:48 AM.
#10
How many miles? Did you tune it up after purchase? Never trust someones else on their word for service and maintenance. Plugs, wires, filters, good gas, clean TB, clean/service PCV. I found that when I did my timing chain it made a solid difference. I had about 1/2 of deflection in the chain, I am not sure how much in degrees it offsets the cam timing but I am sure its a tooth or so too much (or little) enough either way to effect it I am sure.
But I would at least clean everything for starters. I like to think of a car as a human
try running with your fingers in your nose, a week of Big Macs and beer, old tired shoes unlaced and bronchitis and see how well you do.
But I would at least clean everything for starters. I like to think of a car as a human
try running with your fingers in your nose, a week of Big Macs and beer, old tired shoes unlaced and bronchitis and see how well you do.