Tire, Shocks and Other Questions?
#1
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Good afternoon everyone, I am new to the site and yes this is my first post. I have just reading & researching for about a month or so. I bought a 2001 Disco 2 LE with 99.500 miles and I need some info and your opinions. Here is what has been done to it in the previous month by me and in the past year by the previous owner.
ME:
Oil Change New Filter
Lubed Front and Rear Driveshaft - It does have zerk fittings on all joints, I presume this means rebuilt? Do not know how long ago though.
New Front Brake Pads
Checked, cleaned and lubed all rear brake parts.
Installed new Hella Fog Lights
New Drivers Side Window Motor - bought from Ebay
OLD OWNER: In the last 12 months
New thermostat
New Water Pump
New Serpentine Belt
Radiator Flush and De-Scaling??
New Power Steering Pump
Engine Headgasket job after leak..done by LR Dealer
New Wiper Motor
New Spark Plugs and Wires
I have all this paperwork from dealer.
Pending and Questions:
1- Tranfer Case Rear Main Seal Leaking - Any tips on how to repair?? I did find the thread on how to. Any tips would be appreciated.
2- Driver side door locks do not operate at all; I can move it manually or with the handle but will not lock or unlock with key, or with power locks from inside the car. Does these mean I need an new actuator or new springs?
3- It came with an ARB Bumper; I wanted to add a winch to it. I do not know how old the coil springs or shocks are; do I need HD shocks or spring in the front due to the added weight of the bumper and winch? I do not have anything to base it on but the suspension seems stiff..any bump feels harder than I would think it should be.
4- It has the 18" rims; if I go with 255/55/18 AT type tires do I need anything as far as a lift? What tires would you guys recommend? I was thinking of going with Toyo Open Country AT II.
I do plan on off-roading at some point, with my kids and such camping etc. As much as New England will let us.
Is there anything else I should be paying attention to? Thanks in advance.
ME:
Oil Change New Filter
Lubed Front and Rear Driveshaft - It does have zerk fittings on all joints, I presume this means rebuilt? Do not know how long ago though.
New Front Brake Pads
Checked, cleaned and lubed all rear brake parts.
Installed new Hella Fog Lights
New Drivers Side Window Motor - bought from Ebay
OLD OWNER: In the last 12 months
New thermostat
New Water Pump
New Serpentine Belt
Radiator Flush and De-Scaling??
New Power Steering Pump
Engine Headgasket job after leak..done by LR Dealer
New Wiper Motor
New Spark Plugs and Wires
I have all this paperwork from dealer.
Pending and Questions:
1- Tranfer Case Rear Main Seal Leaking - Any tips on how to repair?? I did find the thread on how to. Any tips would be appreciated.
2- Driver side door locks do not operate at all; I can move it manually or with the handle but will not lock or unlock with key, or with power locks from inside the car. Does these mean I need an new actuator or new springs?
3- It came with an ARB Bumper; I wanted to add a winch to it. I do not know how old the coil springs or shocks are; do I need HD shocks or spring in the front due to the added weight of the bumper and winch? I do not have anything to base it on but the suspension seems stiff..any bump feels harder than I would think it should be.
4- It has the 18" rims; if I go with 255/55/18 AT type tires do I need anything as far as a lift? What tires would you guys recommend? I was thinking of going with Toyo Open Country AT II.
I do plan on off-roading at some point, with my kids and such camping etc. As much as New England will let us.
Is there anything else I should be paying attention to? Thanks in advance.
#2
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1-For the t-case leak, White Shepard seal conditioner.
2-New power door lock actuator.
3-Medium duty is all you will need, if the suspension is stiff then you prob already have a heavy duty lift.
4-I dont know.
For what you are planing on doing with the truck there is not much to do other than keep it in good running shape.
If you were going to be rock crawling etc. then you would want to do things different.
2-New power door lock actuator.
3-Medium duty is all you will need, if the suspension is stiff then you prob already have a heavy duty lift.
4-I dont know.
For what you are planing on doing with the truck there is not much to do other than keep it in good running shape.
If you were going to be rock crawling etc. then you would want to do things different.
#3
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255/55-18 is the standard tire size for 18" rims so you don't need any lift. I have 265/60-18 on mine with no lift and haven't had any problem (when I bought it, it had 285/65-18 with no lift but I didn't like how close it was to everything so I never even got close to a rough road, I think it would have rubbed badly on any trail)
#4
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Thanks for the info. One more question if I went to 16" rims and 265/75 will the stock suspension work with it? I have the possibility of getting some used rims and tires in that size.
Does that white shepherd stuff work? I just looked it up and the bottle cost the same as the a new seal...
Does that white shepherd stuff work? I just looked it up and the bottle cost the same as the a new seal...
#5
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If you want to replace the seal on the t-case that is the correct way to fix it.
If you want to put in the work go for it man, you need to remove the rear prop shaft, the parking brake and drum, then remove the seal.
There may be a few more bits to remove first, I've never done it so I cant say for sure.
If you go with the 16" rim you will have a WAY better tire selection and they will be cheaper too.
If you want to put in the work go for it man, you need to remove the rear prop shaft, the parking brake and drum, then remove the seal.
There may be a few more bits to remove first, I've never done it so I cant say for sure.
If you go with the 16" rim you will have a WAY better tire selection and they will be cheaper too.
#6
#7
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Careful if you lift too much with stock size tires - the 18's have pretty low-profile rubber, and it might look a little...odd with 55-series tires and an OME lift. That said, the 265/60's that Bkreutz have would probably look fine with a lift, and give you some more rubber if you want to air down at any point.
Spike has got it right, though - 16's will give you a LOT more options. I can't blame you if you want to stay with the 18's, though - I really like the rims on mine, and when I eventually have to replace my tires, I'm thinking of something like a 255/60-18 to get a little bit more tire without effecting the gearing too much.
Spike has got it right, though - 16's will give you a LOT more options. I can't blame you if you want to stay with the 18's, though - I really like the rims on mine, and when I eventually have to replace my tires, I'm thinking of something like a 255/60-18 to get a little bit more tire without effecting the gearing too much.
#8
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Thanks for all the replies; I am currently looking at the Nitto Terra GRappler in 255/55/18 and the Hankook Dynapro ATM RF10 in 255/60/18 both have a great price at Discount Tire. Right now to me it looks like it is down on the front, I imagine because of the ARB Bumper?? I think all around they are stock shocks and springs only 100K miles they certainly have no name brand on them just look like stock black ones.
With the ARB and possibly a winch should I upgrade the front springs to Med Duty?
With the ARB and possibly a winch should I upgrade the front springs to Med Duty?
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