Top end engine rebuild w/ pics and video
 

Hello fellow forum members!

Not too long ago I purchased a discovery II with engine troubles. I am going to document the process of diagnosis and repair to help anyone else who might face this issue. I'm using the rave manual to help out with the process but have found this forum to be an excellent source of workarounds not always provided by the rave. I am not 100% sure yet if the problem is only in the top end and am hoping that one of the liners have not slipped. I assume that once I have the heads off I will be able to determine whether the bottom end needs a rebuild which may lead to an engine replacement.

Here is a video of the sound and symptoms

Step #1
 

Looks like I have SAI, not sure if this is a good or bad thing yet..?

Starting out with the left gasket.. Rave steps below

Gasket - cylinder head -LH

Remove inlet manifold gasket

Ok, so far I have removed the viscous fan (a tool is needed to remove the fan or else you will be spending quite some time), radiator, oil cooler and intake manifold. The rave manual suggests that you only remove the intake manifold to start but I plan to replace the cooling system.

Next step is to remove the ht leads from the spark plugs..?

Pic attached

Disconnect ht leads from spark plugs
 

Disconnect ht leads from spark plugs

HT Leads were trivial, but just in case anyone is having an issue removing them I used a set of pliers to simply pull them out. I am now attempting to remove the secondary air injection and have successfully removed one of the union nuts. The nut closest the cabin is giving me some trouble so I have taken the advise of a fellow forum member and purcahsed a set of crows feet wrenches. Still I am having trouble removing the union nut. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

Video

I don't have SAI, so I don't know if removing that nut is an accessibility problem, or if the nut is seemingly seized. If it is the later, my latest go to nut buster is Sea Foam Deep Creep. Previously, I had been a fan of PB Blaster. Then I discovered the wonders of the Deep Creep. I helps break down rust and galvanization, dissolves carbon, and lubricates the threads. Recently helped a friend change spark plugs in his 5.4L Triton Ford. Professional mechanics hate these engines because the plugs carbon up and break on removal necessitating a lengthy process for removing the broken plug. With the help of Deep Creep, all 8 plugs came out easily, as the carbon was liquefied.

I thought Deep Creep was an adult film star but from based on your description it sounds like I need to pick some up.

HAHA, going to pick up a can of that stuff. So what size is the union nut, 22mm? I've been trying to use a set of pliers with no luck and need a better tool to get to it at an angle.

if it's the one perpendicular to the head, it's a 27mm. You can get a 27mm combo wrench at Home Depot for a few bucks.

SAI Union nut removal
 

Success!! Due to the difficulty of this step I will take more video in a few. The required tools for this step are an 18mm crows foot wrench, short ratchet extension, and 27mm combination wrench. And you were rite about that sucker being at home depot for 8 bucks, thanks!

I believe the next step is to remove the valve cover

what is your ultimate goal here to replace the heads gasket?

Engine rebuild
 

The goal is to bring the engine to a reliable state capable of daily driver duties and family outings. Yes, the head gasket is one of the items that will be replaced along with resurfacing the heads and doing a valve job. Would you suggest that I replaced any other components? Other parts for replacement are listed below.

Radiator
Water pump
Thermostat (low temp variation)

You want reliable daily driver..... all aluminum radiator, in line thermo mod, electric fan.

What is the inline termo mod? Is there a different one to get? How is it modified?

meaning get rid of the bypass and put a traditional stat in an inline housing

Help
 

I have managed to strip the head bolt on the passenger side closest to the firewall (the pain in the *** one to remove). I'm afraid I stripped it pretty good using a 1/4 inch 5/8 socket and a huge breaker bar, with a wobble extension. Not sure how to address this new issue, any takers? (video to come soon)

I'm thinking about trying one of these to remove it

Upon removal,Did you start with that bolt?
You should have, but if not put some others back to relieve pressure, then use whatever striped out nut tool. That ^ thing looks promising

as stated before you should un-torque the head, working from the outside in. But as stated install some bolts and snug them down then hammer a 6 point metric socket onto the head bolt and remove it.

Removing head bolts
 

Worked like a charm, fellow forum members who are tackling this job do yourself a favor and head over to Sears and pickup a craftsman turbo socket!!!!

http://c.shld.net/rpx/i/s/pi/mp/2074...6&op_sharpen=1

This thing took the head bolt rite off!

Turbo socket?
 

I don't see the compressor...and where do the exhaust gases enter?

Cylinder head is off!!! Video!!!
 

LMAO, these sockets are worth their weight in gold.

Good news! One of the heads is off!! And I do not see evidence of a slipped liner! The blowout is not between the cylinder walls. Video below, thanks to everyone for their help!

lucky man throw it together and enjoy it for another 75k

Use ARP head bolts. The stretch bolts is what causes the cracks between the cylinder walls do to the thin walls. I would bet that your next HG job will be a slipped liner. Just my opinion.

minor correct; ARP head studs

Yes drow, you are correct...had not finished my coffee yet.

If I can get 75k, this will have been time well spent!

I will grab the recommended head bolts. I would like to avoid another head gasket job, but having gained some experience with this job am confident that I will be able to tackle another one in the future, thanks.

Could you provide a link to the correct part? I still have not been able to remove the multiplug from the plenum.. How does this thing come off? Oh, and what should I have the machine shop do, resurface heads, full valve job, anything else?

You guys rock!

what you have done to your head depend upon your milage, under 100k you're probably all right just having them decked.
If you're much high than that you could have a valve job done, which ever one of you do it make sure you replace the valve guide seals that will come with the gasket kit.

ARP should list two numbers one for older rovers 14-bolt heads and one for newer rovers 10 bolt heads, the older set will give you 8 extra studs for less money than the newer set. check the numbers

Since your already have the heads off go ahead and get the valve job. Not that much more and well worth it.

ARP part number for head bolts is
157-4301

Check with Lucky8 they also say they have them. AB sells them but are at top dollar.
I know you can also get them from Summit Racing.

About the head bolts/studs? I just realized that I bought these from AB. If these are prone to failure I will get ARP 157-4301

Land Rover Head Bolt Kit (Same fit as Part # ERR2943) Fits Discovery, Range Rover & Defender Vehicles

that's a decision you will have to make yourself if you want to use bolts or studs.

Personally i would use studs, i believe a lot of these junk blocks are caused by the people replacing the head gaskets.
they jerk the bolts tight, use extension bars, cheater bars and what not because they can not evenly apply the proper pressure to smoothly tighten the bolt. which cracks the hole in the block but thats just my theroy

Thanks, I will be returning the bolt kit. Atlantic British was able to offer me a price match on the studs from Summit Racing.. Great company! If anyone reading this is in a similar situation just call and send the salesperson a link to the summit racing page, and they will match the price! Thanks AB!

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-157-4301

X2. Great minds think alike.

Dropped the heads off at the machine shop for a surface and valve job. Inspecting the head gaskets, is there a way to determine whether a head gasket job was done before on my truck?

Machine shop doing the work is Gary's Tucson

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Garys...48457685197808

only if you have a noticeable "other than oem" brand gasket or studs or something easily noticeable.
both original head gaskets that i have removed had "land rover" embedded in them

there are measurement in the RAVE or the LR engine manual, it will give you point of measure.using them you can tell if its been decked and by how much.

Head Gaskets
 

I did notice the land rover emblem on the blown head gasket. I am going to replace the water pump now, any recommended manufacturer or OEM?

air tex
brass impeller is best
http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/...Q-saAvde8P8HAQ


i use the cheaper version

I also used a cheaper one because the stock is not brass, and no one could tell me the advantage to brass.

brass is supposed to last longer and is at the lesser risk of having a corrosive reaction in the cooling system, but I'm with you. I will save my money if it was good enough for oem, its good enough for me. i am more concerned with the seals than the metal. the seals are the same in the regular and in the brass.
cheap one = http://www.carid.com/2000-land-rover...-22519776.html

Thanks guys, is the inline thermostat mod worth the effort? I hear nothing but good things thus far from the thread I have been reading.

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...rmostat-67535/