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Old May 19, 2011 | 08:04 AM
  #21  
drowssap's Avatar
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From: Boston Strong
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Vandev,

You are correct on a Disco there is most likely room to pull the heads off of a stud set, my only area of concern was the right side by the brake booster. You would need approx. a foot of clearance roughly 6in for height of the head itself and roughly another 6-7 inches to clear the stud.(but i have not taken any measures)
 
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Old May 19, 2011 | 12:37 PM
  #22  
DarylJ's Avatar
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Originally Posted by drowssap
You are correct on a Disco there is most likely room to pull the heads off of a stud set, my only area of concern was the right side by the brake booster. You would need approx. a foot of clearance roughly 6in for height of the head itself and roughly another 6-7 inches to clear the stud.(but i have not taken any measures)
That's a good point. To use a long socket and a torque wrench on that bolt you already need to get creative with the firewall/wobblers.

Its not the end of the world, but you just may need to pull motor mounts and drop it down some to clear the stud. I'd be interested in hearing real world examples from anyone who has actually pulled a head with the motor in after converting to studs.
 
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Old May 19, 2011 | 02:16 PM
  #23  
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Default also remember

also remember that the studs are put in finger tight and was recommended a 1/4 turn with a allen key till snug....And i don't mean arm tight..hand tight...this will ensure they are set. Set, meaning that if you talk to ARP tech they say "you can check the studs after i think it was 1000 miles to check tightness" now this mainly geared for high performance applications... But to check studs on LR you need to pull off too much crap. Turner and RPI relegiously use studs so i have no worries. Mark from D&D has been extreamly helpful with the ARP studs as well as supplying me with them.

chris
 

Last edited by vandev; May 19, 2011 at 10:48 PM.
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Old May 19, 2011 | 04:14 PM
  #24  
DarylJ's Avatar
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Originally Posted by vandev
But to check studs on LR you need to pull of to much crap.
And on a lot of other stuff. I actually have APRs on my Porsche, but I'd have to pull the cam tower (so the timing and balance shaft belts as well) off to get at 1/2 of the studs. I'm not worried about them, as on subsequent tear downs (even on a stupidly over boosted turbo head gasket blowing machine) they were solid. This experience is well shared across the Porsche (and I'm sure other) communities. ARP definitely makes a good product.
 
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Old May 24, 2011 | 09:57 PM
  #25  
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I'm going to be using studs when I get around to doing mine. Tried to start tearing it down tonight, but tornados stopped all that craziness. Anyway, what torque recommendations have you gotten?
 
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Old May 25, 2011 | 07:14 AM
  #26  
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Default they come with there own settings

Originally Posted by DrippyDisco
I'm going to be using studs when I get around to doing mine. Tried to start tearing it down tonight, but tornados stopped all that craziness. Anyway, what torque recommendations have you gotten?
they come with there own settings. I will post later today...sorry , i have been busy as i haven't worked on the truck in over a week...
 
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Old May 25, 2011 | 08:29 AM
  #27  
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Ok, I have those. Mine say 3 equal steps to 80lbs. Just checking to see if you had gotten any additional info from the experts. Thanks!
 
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Old May 25, 2011 | 09:46 AM
  #28  
0304Disco's Avatar
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Does anyone have the ARP part number?
 
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Old May 25, 2011 | 01:58 PM
  #29  
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ARP #124-4003

This is the one I found.
 
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