Hey guys,

New member here,

Just picked up a 2001 Disco II SE with 134k miles and already got a lot of help from researching on this forum.

Car had a blown head gasket that was redone along with all the coolant hoses, tstat and some other things recently by previous owner.

Noticed that the temp gauge was rising here and there so checked the coolant level and it was low. Followed the instructions on here and refilled coolant. Air came out the bleeder screw. Temp gauge is not going up anymore but will keep an eye on the coolant level for leaks.

Also decided to go ahead and do the transmission fluid (Valvoline Dex III)/Autozone filter, the F/R diff fluids and the transfer case fluid with SuperTech 85w/140 from Walmart. However, when I drained the transfer case fluid, only a quart or so came out... Filled it back up with 2.2qts..and will check to see if it leaks.

Any ideas or suggestions on the above issues??

Also my driveshafts/u joints do not look rebuilt so was thinking of taking them myself to a shop and getting them done but I don't know what to mark before removing them..actually don't know anything about it...any help will be appreciated!!

Thanks!!!!

 

Something is wrong. Could not get car to move!! Will shift into all the gears but when I press on the gas, its like being in P or N. Engine revs but like I said it won't move... like being in neutral!!

This is right after doing the transmission fluid/filter, the transfer case fluid, and both diff fluids....

 

I've done this. You didn't put enough trans fluid in. Start the car, and pump more in while its running, then when its starts coming out, put the cap on, and switch through the gears again a new times, then check if the fluid comes out again, if it doesn't pump more until it comes out, if it does, you should be fine. You really have to pump it in there, like 6 quarts is the capacity I believe.


EDIT: Also, your tcase has a leak, keep an eye on it and top it off. You could reseal it also, its a lot of work.


Coolant leak, big deal on the rovers, find it and stop it, look at all of the little plastic hard lines and the throttle body heater plate as they are common for coolant leaks.

 

Thanks so much for the reply!!

I suspected/hoping it was just not enough fluid... BUT I can't seem to get more in there without it spilling out..followed the procedures.

Put in about 3 qts then started the engine, went through all the gears, and I tried to put more in, but would keep spilling..

any suggestions? Also if I get enough fluid in there, does it engage/ just starts working again?

 

Just keep pumping, I had ATF all over me when I was doing my brothers, I worked fine for me though. Just push as much as humanly possible in there, you will lose some AFT during the process, so you might need an extra quart. It will just start working again also.

 

OK also read in another thread to put in it neutral and pump it in... should I be in P or N? So I should ignore the oil spilling out and keep pumping in?

 

Thanks for the help!

Started working as you said, and did a little slow test drive.. and first gear was a little slow and in and out of neutral type feeling... and shift from 1st to 2nd is rougher than b4 the fluid change..

Shift from second to third was very smooth.

Came to a red light and came to a complete stop for like 10 seconds and when the light turn green I hit the gas but it felt like it was in neutral again, let the rpm drop and hit the gas again and it was fine...

Do you think I need MORE atf???

 

A lot of ATF remains in the ATF oil cooler system and has to be pumped out for a complete change of ATF even then you cannot evacuate all of the ATF. Refilling if you have lost most of the ATF is a series of starting, running the engine in idle to pump the ATF around and topping up as the ATF distributes around the system. It's best done on axle stands with no wheels on as ultimately you need to cycle the autobox through all of the gears to ensure ATF distribution and then top up again. Once you've finally topped up the autobox take the truck for a local run around and then recheck the ATF level and top up as necessary. Of course this would all be a lot simpler if it had a dipstick through which you can top up the autobox, like a D1 or Pajero, which in fact you can fit to a D2 if the change the autobox sump and get the dipstick kit (refer to Paul Grant who sells them)

By the way, Dexron 3 is inferior to SPIII used in most Japanese/Asian cars which runs cooler in the D2 autobox as is used in Asia as their boxes run hotter in any event. US and UK autoboxes were 'designed down' to the Dexron 2 or 3 (GM) spec for compatibility of ATF. I will use SPIII (also JASO spec) in my D2 when I change the ATF next time. Worth reading up on the ATF specs for future reference. Don't mix these ATF's though if you do a top up as they have different properties.

 

Thanks for the reply!

So I went ahead and pumped in almost 2 qts more and a bottle of lucas stop slip...

When doing this, the new fluid I put in yesterday already looked brown...I guess as you said there is a lot of fluid still in the cooler/torque converter...makes me wanna drain and put in new fluid again...

 

Hows it driving now that you pumped two more quarts in?