Transfer Case - Blue Devil Stop Leak
#1
Transfer Case - Blue Devil Stop Leak
My T-Case is leaking pretty bad, I've read on here that several used Blue Devil Stop lead to fix it or slow it down. I see Blue Devil for motor oil and transmission oil but not specifically Transfer cases. For those that have used this in your T-case did you use the transmission version?
Thanks,
Troy
Thanks,
Troy
#2
Troy, it is a good product, costs about $20 and works pretty well to a point. I just bought a bottle for my t/case with a wet but rarely drip sort of a leak.
You can try it but if your leak is pretty bad, then it will most like be time for a reseal. If you do try the additive, put a half bottle in with new gear oil.
Have you actually crawled under to look for the exact leak? By the way, make sure you use a 85/140 to refill as well as the diffs.
You can try it but if your leak is pretty bad, then it will most like be time for a reseal. If you do try the additive, put a half bottle in with new gear oil.
Have you actually crawled under to look for the exact leak? By the way, make sure you use a 85/140 to refill as well as the diffs.
#5
Something just to check as a "CYA", but on my recently acquired 04 D2 the transfer case seemed to be leaking pretty good. Upon draining it only about 3/4 of a qt came out. It was black, but no debris or metal. I filled it up with fresh 80/90w (had it already laying around), and it started to seep pretty bad again. After doing more close inspections for melted SAI vacuum lines I found the transfer case/transmission vent lines completely melted shut and resting on the RF cat. I repaired the vent lines, and after that my transfer case hasn't leaked a drop. I'm guessing it was building up pressure and since it couldn't vent it was pushing the 80/90 out the lower seal.
Just something to check while your down there.
Just something to check while your down there.
#6
#8
It was sitting for 6 months, before I bought it. It was dark 3/4 of a qt to 1qt of brown/black gear oil vs a nice clear honey gold for sure but it was not burnt smelling.
If it takes a dump it takes a dump, but I'm not driving it much due to me fixing other things. When I did drive it the TC was smooth with no noise at all. CDL is smooth, and so is 4Hi to 4Lo.
I'd have been concerned if it had metal in the fluid or was burnt but it wasn't.
My 98 D1 which had perfect and clean fluid howls like a 707.... and refuses to die.
I had asked a LR tech about using 75/140 or 85/140, but they said stick to 80/90w for a bit, and do a flush on my next oil change to check it.
If it takes a dump it takes a dump, but I'm not driving it much due to me fixing other things. When I did drive it the TC was smooth with no noise at all. CDL is smooth, and so is 4Hi to 4Lo.
I'd have been concerned if it had metal in the fluid or was burnt but it wasn't.
My 98 D1 which had perfect and clean fluid howls like a 707.... and refuses to die.
I had asked a LR tech about using 75/140 or 85/140, but they said stick to 80/90w for a bit, and do a flush on my next oil change to check it.
Last edited by Best4x4; 08-07-2015 at 08:43 PM.
#10