Transfer Case Issue
Hello guys,
I believe I have an issue with the transfer case on my 2000 LR Disco II, while reversing from a parking spot, the truck stopped and would not go forward or backwards, not even pushing in neutral. When the flatbed towed the truck, the front wheels were locked up while the rear turned freely. No lights were lit other than the 3 amigos (which have been on for over 2 years no with no solid diagnosis). Car has 126K miles and the transmission fluid, filter and seals were just replaced last year @ 118K miles.
The problem is, the truck broke down in a small rural community 180 miles away from a “Certified” Land Rover mechanic. I do not wish to pay the $800 tow bill so I am trying to assist the best small town mechanic I could find in fixing the first Land Rover he has ever touched.
Questions are: 1) Could a low fluid level cause this and would fluid remedy the situation? 2) Could a malfunctioning transfer case control box be the problem, and if so how would you distinguish between the control box malfunction and the transfer case going out/locking up? 3) If it is the transfer case, can it be removed along with the front drive shaft so that it can be driven to a “Certified” Land Rover mechanic? I would think it could run on rear wheel drive only, considering improvised repairs that are common when off-road trekking.
Thank you for your input,
John
I believe I have an issue with the transfer case on my 2000 LR Disco II, while reversing from a parking spot, the truck stopped and would not go forward or backwards, not even pushing in neutral. When the flatbed towed the truck, the front wheels were locked up while the rear turned freely. No lights were lit other than the 3 amigos (which have been on for over 2 years no with no solid diagnosis). Car has 126K miles and the transmission fluid, filter and seals were just replaced last year @ 118K miles.
The problem is, the truck broke down in a small rural community 180 miles away from a “Certified” Land Rover mechanic. I do not wish to pay the $800 tow bill so I am trying to assist the best small town mechanic I could find in fixing the first Land Rover he has ever touched.
Questions are: 1) Could a low fluid level cause this and would fluid remedy the situation? 2) Could a malfunctioning transfer case control box be the problem, and if so how would you distinguish between the control box malfunction and the transfer case going out/locking up? 3) If it is the transfer case, can it be removed along with the front drive shaft so that it can be driven to a “Certified” Land Rover mechanic? I would think it could run on rear wheel drive only, considering improvised repairs that are common when off-road trekking.
Thank you for your input,
John
John, just so you know as well as your mechanic a Land Rover is FULL TIME FOUR WHEEL DRIVE, there is NO transfer case control unit of any kind, the entire driveline on this truck is all gears, no clutches anywhere like on a Jeep or a Chevy.
If you remove the t-case the truck will not go anywhere under its own power.
On a Jeep for example, the rear driveshaft comes out of the transmission, on a LR the transmission drives the t-case which then drives the driveshafts.
Check the fluid level in your t-case, looking at the parking brake drum on the back of the t-case at the 10 o'clock position is the fill/check plug.
The transfer case use's gear lube NOT ATF.
The fluid level should be right at that hole with the truck level.
If the t-case is fried because you ran it low on fluid then you need a new one.
It could be that your front differential seized, check the fluid level in that, remove the front driveshaft and then see if the front wheels will spin on their own.
If you remove the t-case the truck will not go anywhere under its own power.
On a Jeep for example, the rear driveshaft comes out of the transmission, on a LR the transmission drives the t-case which then drives the driveshafts.
Check the fluid level in your t-case, looking at the parking brake drum on the back of the t-case at the 10 o'clock position is the fill/check plug.
The transfer case use's gear lube NOT ATF.
The fluid level should be right at that hole with the truck level.
If the t-case is fried because you ran it low on fluid then you need a new one.
It could be that your front differential seized, check the fluid level in that, remove the front driveshaft and then see if the front wheels will spin on their own.
1- Yes, low fluid could cause this and, no. oil will not fix anything locked up.
2- the "control box" is just a shifter. The little one just forward of the gear shift. As stated, put the t-case in N and see if it will roll. DO NOT START THE TRUCK OR TRY TO SHIFT GEARS. If it still won't, see if it will move with the front prop shaft removed.
3- odds are that you are not driving anywhere. If your front shaft tweaked somehow on the centering ball and is binding up your front end (totally possible), you can drop the front shaft, lock the t-case and drive home. Get the shaft re-built and pop it back in. If it is the shaft, you are one lucky SOB that it didn't fail going down the road.
4- PM Mike with your telephone number. He is a plethora of knowledge and very willing to help. Do not hesitate to call. He will even try to help the mechanic..
2- the "control box" is just a shifter. The little one just forward of the gear shift. As stated, put the t-case in N and see if it will roll. DO NOT START THE TRUCK OR TRY TO SHIFT GEARS. If it still won't, see if it will move with the front prop shaft removed.
3- odds are that you are not driving anywhere. If your front shaft tweaked somehow on the centering ball and is binding up your front end (totally possible), you can drop the front shaft, lock the t-case and drive home. Get the shaft re-built and pop it back in. If it is the shaft, you are one lucky SOB that it didn't fail going down the road.
4- PM Mike with your telephone number. He is a plethora of knowledge and very willing to help. Do not hesitate to call. He will even try to help the mechanic..


