Well I've been posting about replacing the transfer case output seal the last couple of days. It was leaking pretty bad from that location. took it all apart and found hardly any of the seal left. also found remnants of rubber gasket crap all over the inside metal ring that sits in front of the bearings so who knows what the last person did . installed the seal and when I torqued it to speck the flange was impossible to move by hand. I backed it off just to barley hand tight to where the flange now turned freely as it did before I took it off. went to test drive it and it's whining like crazy with some clunking so now I.m sure what the heck to do next! it ran fine before I took it out and the prop shaft is newly rebuilt from the last owner. supposed to have the emissions done by today and the temp runs out so now I'm panicking on what to do???
possible still to tight? to loose? wrong seal ? though I verified it ten times. I marked everything and it's back to exactly where it was before I took it off.
thanks for any immediate input!!!!!

 

These are the parts that could impact your efforts. Make sure they are all in place, especially the spacer, #2

 

sorry it's the Front output shaft seal! so the front flange is the issue!

 

Do you have the RAVE or Workshop manual downloaded yet? These are pulled from it:

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...LT230seals.jpg
In this cross section drawing, it shows how the seal rides on the sides/outside of the flange body, not behind it or touching the clip holding the bearing in.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...utexploded.jpg
Here's an exploded view of the front output. There's not much to it. #11-17 are all the parts - nut, felt washer, steel washer, flange, mud shield, oil seal (the one giving you fits), and the circlip, bearing and spacer. That's it. Once you figure out you're missing something or something is installed in the wrong order, it should make sense and work out.

You may have to break down and take it to a shop if you can't figure it out.

 

If you're in Parker, maybe I could find some time this weekend to swing by and take a look. Though, I have my own Disco drama to address first. Off to do that now!

 

Hey thanks! Yea i do not have a mud shield ring unless that is the con-caved part that is that built directly into the flange ( or at least appears to be) ?
and my part #17 is a large solid ring and I do not see any holes to put in a cir-clip tool or any space between any of the edges indicating a spacer. it almost seems like a giant metal washer or a solid metal ring built into he sides of the t-case housing. that would make no sense thought because there would be no way for the bearing to come out???
drained the gear oil again just to test to see if I had put it the right amount, it was already black from just putting it in and taking it out. I put in nearly two new quarts mixed with Lucas engine stabilizer and test drove again. the whining is only here and there but now I'm getting a series of clicks and a little clunking while accelerating up a hill or decelerating at higher speeds. re-greased all the fittings too before the test drive.
man here I thought my Audi was a PITA to own and drive what part of town u in?

 

oh and yes I have down loaded the rave .... the first time I joined the sight!
great stuff!!!

 

do u know if the rear of the flange ( part that goes into he t-case housing) makes contact with the bearing #15 or spacer #16 ? if not then cranking the nut has to compress the mudguard ring into the seal and then into the cir-clip right? I don't see how it could not unless it bottoms out on the bearing or spacer. if so then maybe my spacer or bearing is worn?

 

On for land rovers only site there is a d2 with cdl for $175 in Anderson in

 

I'm in south Aurora. The flange may (can't remember for sure) get torqued against the spacer, not the seal or bearing. The mud shield should not be making contact with the seal. The shield should stay on the flange unless you force it off.