Transfer Case Nose Cone Swap?
I'd like to get a CDL on my 02 and it sounds like I just need the nose cone off of a transfer case that has it. Does anyone have a link to a write up of this? It sounds like it's considerably easier than an entire transfer case swap.
The actual job is much more than just doing the swap of the nose. You have to remove the central console and the transmission cover plate for both approaches, and working through that hole to change the nose is something of a hassle.
Curious, did you use some kind of attachment on a floor jack to move it?
Thanks for the replies! Part of why I'm interested in a nose cone swap is I'd be pulling either a t-case or the nosecone from a junkyard car. The entire t-case sounds like it's heavy and hard to deal with sans transmission jack. Does anyone have tips for pulling the t- case from a junkyard vehicle without a jack?
Thanks for the replies! Part of why I'm interested in a nose cone swap is I'd be pulling either a t-case or the nosecone from a junkyard car. The entire t-case sounds like it's heavy and hard to deal with sans transmission jack. Does anyone have tips for pulling the t- case from a junkyard vehicle without a jack?
1/2" metric and SAE sockets (shallow and deep well)
3/8" metric and SAE sockets (shallow and deep well)
ratcheting wrenches (SAE and metric)
variety of swivels, extensions, reducers
stripped screw/bolt extractor set (may not be necessary, but may be required if you encounter rounded/damaged bolt heads)
1/2" drive electric impact
3/8" drive electric drill
vice grips
dykes (AKA diagonal cutting pliers, if you are woke)
BFH
variety of pry bars
drill bits (you will need to drill out the rivets that hold the upper access panel underneath the center console)
variety of bits (Phillips, flat head)
special driveline socket/extension (not necessary, as wrenches will do, but the special socket helps if you want to use the impact)
impact screw driver (I did not have this, but it would have come in handy when removing the parking brake drum. I managed to remove the parking brake drum screw by using the BFH to strike the end of a robust Phillips screw driver while simultaneously applying counterclockwise rotational pressure to the screw driver)
zip ties (used to hold the parking brake drum off to the side after removal)
mats to set on the ground and lay on (not necessary, but helpful to increase comfort)
knee pads (not necessary, but helpful to the aging knees)
gloves with knuckle protection (not necessary, but helpful to protect the hands)
ZYN 6 mg
caffeinated beverage
This video helped me prepare ahead of time:
The guy in the video suggests using a modified bolt (remove the head) to use as a guide bolt to keep the transfer case from drooping before you intend it to, but I did not need to do this since I had a helper.
Good luck.
Last edited by HopeItsNotAMoneyPit; Dec 2, 2025 at 03:46 PM.
I just removed a transfer case this past Sunday from a salvage yard 2004 Discovery because I, too, intend to add the locking center differential to my 2003. I did not have a jack but I did have a helper. The job took us about 3 hours. I could have done it solo but it would have been a major PITA and would have taken longer. Since it was in the salvage yard, it was up pretty high on old stacked/welded rims so the high ground clearance helped. You will want enough ground clearance to turtle yourself underneath the vehicle to lower the transfer case when you reach that point. I used the following tools:
1/2" metric and SAE sockets (shallow and deep well)
3/8" metric and SAE sockets (shallow and deep well)
ratcheting wrenches (SAE and metric)
variety of swivels, extensions, reducers
stripped screw/bolt extractor set (may not be necessary, but may be required if you encounter rounded/damaged bolt heads)
1/2" drive electric impact
3/8" drive electric drill
vice grips
dykes (AKA diagonal cutting pliers, if you are woke)
BFH
variety of pry bars
drill bits (you will need to drill out the rivets that hold the upper access panel underneath the center console)
variety of bits (Phillips, flat head)
special driveline socket/extension (not necessary, as wrenches will do, but the special socket helps if you want to use the impact)
impact screw driver (I did not have this, but it would have come in handy when removing the parking brake drum. I managed to remove the parking brake drum screw by using the BFH to strike the end of a robust Phillips screw driver while simultaneously applying counterclockwise rotational pressure to the screw driver)
zip ties (used to hold the parking brake drum off to the side after removal)
mats to set on the ground and lay on (not necessary, but helpful to increase comfort)
knee pads (not necessary, but helpful to the aging knees)
gloves with knuckle protection (not necessary, but helpful to protect the hands)
ZYN 6 mg
caffeinated beverage
This video helped me prepare ahead of time:
https://youtu.be/AhzVk7F4LlY?si=p7GJvLvSSnCiCBO2
The guy in the video suggests using a modified bolt (remove the head) to use as a guide bolt to keep the transfer case from drooping before you intend it to, but I did not need to do this since I had a helper.
Good luck.
1/2" metric and SAE sockets (shallow and deep well)
3/8" metric and SAE sockets (shallow and deep well)
ratcheting wrenches (SAE and metric)
variety of swivels, extensions, reducers
stripped screw/bolt extractor set (may not be necessary, but may be required if you encounter rounded/damaged bolt heads)
1/2" drive electric impact
3/8" drive electric drill
vice grips
dykes (AKA diagonal cutting pliers, if you are woke)
BFH
variety of pry bars
drill bits (you will need to drill out the rivets that hold the upper access panel underneath the center console)
variety of bits (Phillips, flat head)
special driveline socket/extension (not necessary, as wrenches will do, but the special socket helps if you want to use the impact)
impact screw driver (I did not have this, but it would have come in handy when removing the parking brake drum. I managed to remove the parking brake drum screw by using the BFH to strike the end of a robust Phillips screw driver while simultaneously applying counterclockwise rotational pressure to the screw driver)
zip ties (used to hold the parking brake drum off to the side after removal)
mats to set on the ground and lay on (not necessary, but helpful to increase comfort)
knee pads (not necessary, but helpful to the aging knees)
gloves with knuckle protection (not necessary, but helpful to protect the hands)
ZYN 6 mg
caffeinated beverage
This video helped me prepare ahead of time:
https://youtu.be/AhzVk7F4LlY?si=p7GJvLvSSnCiCBO2
The guy in the video suggests using a modified bolt (remove the head) to use as a guide bolt to keep the transfer case from drooping before you intend it to, but I did not need to do this since I had a helper.
Good luck.


