Transfer case stuck
Yep, I figured that out after moving it around. I didn't make the sound until today...
I tried to change where I had the linkage mounted on the splined shaft but it only really seemed to be "right" in one spot. Put it back together, went for a ride. Got about 100yards and the t-case went into neutral.
I tried to change where I had the linkage mounted on the splined shaft but it only really seemed to be "right" in one spot. Put it back together, went for a ride. Got about 100yards and the t-case went into neutral.
The t-case shifter needs to be back and to the right for normal driving not just back, so that might be your problem.
All the solenoid does is keep you from shifting into low unless the trans is in neutral, it does not keep the gear shifter in place.
All the solenoid does is keep you from shifting into low unless the trans is in neutral, it does not keep the gear shifter in place.
yeah the solid tone you hear is to indicate that you are not fully engaged into either hi or low range... if you put too much force on the linkage when you were trying to get it working moving it forward and backward you may have caused the metal to fatigue on the end that attaches to the t-case, i did this to mine and had it tig welded back together and reinforced by a friend of mine... if you mess with the position of the splined shaft and where you attach the linkage to it you should be able to get it to stay in hi range... the reason it keeps popping out of gear like that is bc you are not moving the gear selector on the transfer case far enough to fully engage the gears... adjust it to where you can get a little more rearward travel from the shift **** and you should be good...
I tried to adjust the linkage to splined shaft point. I installed it to where it felt/sounded like it hit both ranges correctly throughout the throw range. I hope I didn't screw up the end.
I have the t-case shifter back and to the right... hi range position.
Thanks for all the help, much appreciated.
I have the t-case shifter back and to the right... hi range position.
Thanks for all the help, much appreciated.
I have a 97 DI 110k. I have had it for three years now. When I first got it, the transfer case shifter would not move. I removed the console, took it all apart, greased everything real good, replaced all the little linkage clips, lubed it up real good.
It shifts from hi to low no problem. It moves side to side, but never locks the diff lock. No lights on dash. I got a new switch (the one beside the solenoid cover). The old switch reads open circuit no matter which position the shifter is in (right or left).
I even cut a hole in the floorpan to gan access to the switch. The nut on the old switch is bigger than the nut on the new one and I cannot get the connector off or get the nut to budge to unbolt the old switch. What Gives? See Pics: All help appreciated.
It shifts from hi to low no problem. It moves side to side, but never locks the diff lock. No lights on dash. I got a new switch (the one beside the solenoid cover). The old switch reads open circuit no matter which position the shifter is in (right or left).
I even cut a hole in the floorpan to gan access to the switch. The nut on the old switch is bigger than the nut on the new one and I cannot get the connector off or get the nut to budge to unbolt the old switch. What Gives? See Pics: All help appreciated.
If you look at the pics I posted, you can see one side of the solenoid cover and two boltheads beside the switch I am having trouble with. I opted to make the cutout rather than unbolt the transmission shifter to access the switch and solenoid area.
I saw it was wide open on inside of the tunnel sidewall, so I drilled four holes that i thought were far enough apart to get my hand in, cut with aviation snips, then enlarged the opening by continuing the cuts at the corners and peeling the top and bottom further open. I can see and reach the switch, but cannot get the darn nut to budge or even get the connector off the top. I have the replacement switch, but have a concern regarding the difference in size beteen the two nuts. If I pull the solenoid will that do any good? The switch reads open circuit regardless of tc shifter position. I know there is a ball device in the end of the switch, what does it take to activate this in the mounted position?
I saw it was wide open on inside of the tunnel sidewall, so I drilled four holes that i thought were far enough apart to get my hand in, cut with aviation snips, then enlarged the opening by continuing the cuts at the corners and peeling the top and bottom further open. I can see and reach the switch, but cannot get the darn nut to budge or even get the connector off the top. I have the replacement switch, but have a concern regarding the difference in size beteen the two nuts. If I pull the solenoid will that do any good? The switch reads open circuit regardless of tc shifter position. I know there is a ball device in the end of the switch, what does it take to activate this in the mounted position?
Jay,
Thanks for the offer. All help is always appreciated. Allow me to invite you to join the Fort Pitt Land Rover Group (FPLRG). We are a loose knit group of Rover nuts in the greater Pittsburgh and surrounding areas.
Visit fplrg.org for more info. We try to get out together as often as we can and have monthly meetings. We have a big variety of different vehicles represented, both new and older models. I think you would enjoy it.
Thanks for the offer. All help is always appreciated. Allow me to invite you to join the Fort Pitt Land Rover Group (FPLRG). We are a loose knit group of Rover nuts in the greater Pittsburgh and surrounding areas.
Visit fplrg.org for more info. We try to get out together as often as we can and have monthly meetings. We have a big variety of different vehicles represented, both new and older models. I think you would enjoy it.


