Transmission Fluid Change (or not!)
Thanks everyone! I plan to go ahead and perform the Drain, Filter and Refill using the Atlantic British kit - I'll do the D2 first, all being well I'll do my D1 afterwards.
Many thxs,
Ian
Many thxs,
Ian
I've opened up plenty of HP22/HP24 pans with low to high mileage. Some have looked black with a good blob of microscopic metal on the magnet, while others have looked silver with hardly anything on the magnet. Both were shifting perfectly fine as well. I personally change drain/filter/fluid. I do not do 100% flushes. Then say on your next oil change or slightly before (if it was really nasty inside with burnt smelling fluid) drain/fill again, and then you should be good to go.
FWIW - I has having the same dilemma with a new to me D2 with 180k miles. I ended up just dumping as much fluid as I could (about 4 quarts) and refilled, drove 100 miles and did it again. All is good so far after 2k miles. Next time I may crack the pan and change the filter too.
Changing the filter is a breeze on a D2 vs a D1. However if you live up north I would soak the bolts holding the pan. Then it's pretty straight forward. Pan drops, clean magnet, remove filter (more fluid will pour out), make sure you remove the filter and get both o-rings with it. Re-install the new filter and o-rings, then place the gasket on the pan (no RTV), tighten it up, and then fill it, and check the level.
Based on the past few transmission courses l've taken, over the last couple years (one was trans manufacturer and the other a ATF supplier)...there seems to be a new way of thinking concerning transmission fluid changes on high mileage or transmissions with unknown service history or usage (severe duty).
They talked about the "shock value" of changing all of the fluid and filter on high mileage transmissions and how this could cause issues. They recommended doing a partial fluid change, drive the vehicle for a few hundred miles and then doing a complete fluid/filter change.
This has been my practice for the last few Dll's l've owned, since there was no previous history available. Recently, on my 04 -170K, was planning on dropping half the fluid...but it only had half the fluid in it...lol. Little under three quarts came out and was very dark. So, l was forced to refill entirely with new fluid. I've put about 100 miles on it so far, shifting improved considerably, naturally...correct level will do that, and it will get filter and fluid soon.
Brian.
They talked about the "shock value" of changing all of the fluid and filter on high mileage transmissions and how this could cause issues. They recommended doing a partial fluid change, drive the vehicle for a few hundred miles and then doing a complete fluid/filter change.
This has been my practice for the last few Dll's l've owned, since there was no previous history available. Recently, on my 04 -170K, was planning on dropping half the fluid...but it only had half the fluid in it...lol. Little under three quarts came out and was very dark. So, l was forced to refill entirely with new fluid. I've put about 100 miles on it so far, shifting improved considerably, naturally...correct level will do that, and it will get filter and fluid soon.
Brian.
Last edited by The Deputy; Apr 22, 2020 at 05:37 AM.
Resurrection time… did anyone do this with jack stands and not a lift?
Even at the highest I can get my stands (probably more a limitation of the jack than the actual stands - ) it’s a bit tight under there for me.
I’d love some tips for not burning the $&@% out of myself when doing the second fill while the truck is running.
Even at the highest I can get my stands (probably more a limitation of the jack than the actual stands - ) it’s a bit tight under there for me.
I’d love some tips for not burning the $&@% out of myself when doing the second fill while the truck is running.
Yeah, I get under at stock height as well. You could use a piece of cardboard to lay on instead of a creeper. That will give you a couple of inches. Another hack would be to double up some long 2x6’s to drive up on.
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