I disagree with Mike on this, drain and fill FIRST, then do the filter, and here is why.
When you put the new fluid in it will clean the crud, the old filter will catch it. This should dislodge 90% of your crud.
When you replace the filter you will remove all the crud and then the new fluid and filter will clean/catch what is left.
If you replace the filter first you will clog the NEW filter with the OLD crud thus making the new filter no better than the old one.
That is my reasoning.
And I do agree with Mike not to do the power flush, just the two fluid changes and the filter change.
And then after the new filter do a drain and fill every 20,000-30,000 miles.
I change my trans fluid every 2 years no matter what.

 

I think I am going to do a filter change both times, because if the old one has never been changed I think it will fail to function properly, or will easily get clogged.

I honestly have no problem spending time dropping the sump etc., if it will help the job come out better. I can't drop all sorts of money on the rover, but I can spend time.

 

Way to be diplomatic. Good job.

Maybe add some SeaFoam to the first change, drive a thousand miles and then change it again this time without the SeaFoam.

 

Im not sure what effect the trans temp has on the zf4hp22 but is criticle on the 24r. ie the disco I vrs the II. if you are going through the task of dropping the crossmember to change the filter you might as well thow in a trans oil temp sensor. if the 22r operates mechanically anything like the 24r than im sure they engineered a temp circuit into the shifting/warm-up cycle of the transmission. maybe its stuck in a cold position and is confused about its intended shift points?

 

i'll look into getting one...

what do you guys think about this, discomike and spike?

 

Disco mike is absolutely right in suggesting the filter change the first time for a basic hydraulics reason.

Your existing filter is clogged at best. It may be causing a pump cavitation at very low temperatures because your fluid has the viscosity of molasses and the filter is loaded with debris.

With that said, presently your valve body and the governer pressure control circuit is not in the normal range to allow shifting to happen according to the set rpm / torque / throttle / speed / gear matrix.

So, you need to put in a new filter to make sure that the flow rate through it is normal and not restricted, you will not need a filter 200 miles later unless you discover that pieces of your frictions and steels are sitting in the bottom of your pan in a sludge.

I have a good feeling that you are going to revive this transmission and get another 50 K miles out of it.

 

I dont know, the DI tranny is not electronic like a DII, so I dont think it cares what its temp is, it will do what it was meant to do no matter how cold it is.
It is a 100% mechanical transmission, the onlything electic on it is the temp sensor and as far as I know that is only to warn you of a overheat situation.
There is no trans ECU, just a shift cable.
Maybe wait and see what progress is made after the first fluid and filter change.

 

Spike has a point, filter change after the first fluid change would make more since.

 

Alright... done but I cheated

haven't put the crossmember back yet, haven't put exhaust back yet (love that sound of the V8, neighbors don't )

Obligatory Pictures:


Old VS New


initial impressions:

1. It does not shift smoother, however when it does shift the RPMs go lower after the shift than before the fluid change
2. The Car will not "stick" in gear anymore, previously it would feel like I wasn't "taking the clutch up, if it was a standard" now it will coast MUCH better
3. My idle issues seem to be better, however that is tempermental, so only time will tell if this was the tranny (I doubt it)


I filled it with new stuff, and after driving a couple miles and checking the dip stick it looked a dark red already, kind of like it is always supposed to look, and it was a little above the max line... should I drain a bit?

 

No, do not drain any out, just keep going, it is supposed to be as red in the trans as it is in the bottle.
This might take several fluid changes to really clean the tranny out good. Nothing worse than a dirty tranny.

I suspect that it will get better as time goes on, I think it will shift better on Fri than it did today.
Change the fluid again this coming weekend, then again in another week, keep doing this until the fluid is still clean after a week and then change the filter again and call it good.
May take 3-4 fluid changes.