I am sorry Guys I think I have misled ya'll on which sway controller I was refering to. This is the one I say to have if making a long road trip
Pro Series Friction Sway Control Assembly w/ Fastners Trailer Receiver Tow Hitch




Friction Sway Control uses friction to resist pivotal movement and thereby works against the effects of induced sway. It operates on the principle of "stiffening" the coupling between the tow vehicle and trailer. The degree of "stiffening" or friction is adjusted to suit various trailer weights and towing conditions. Its operation is simple and uncomplicated. It doesn't prevent the generation of sway; it simply works to resist the forces once they have started.

 

I knew exactly what you meant by sway control.
You dont want it to tight or to loose either, to tight and turning tight corners will be a b!tch, to loose and it will sway everywhere.
You will just need to adjust the tension by trial and error.

 

I was reading over the user manual again last night.

So much hedging on any really useful information that might guide me (or any other interested person) in the right direction, all due to liability!

Thanks for all of your information, if I decide to go ahead and set up my truck for towing, I'll pass along how it performed.

 

Have the brake controller professionally installed.
Hook up the trailer, hook up the sway bars, put rear tires at max. psi, call it good and have fun.

 

Thanks again to everyone who weighed in on the topic.

I am now going through hell trying to figure out the wiring for the standard north american 7 blade rv conversion. I went to my local Rover dealer and they told me to remove the rover 7 pin round and install the 7 blade North american kit they provide - install according to the directions.....

Well, if I do that I end up with the same connections as a small flat 4 pin set-up..... Looking into the right taillight connections there are 3 wires (blue, red and orange) that are NOT connected to the adapter...

I have the Rave Manual and I cannot make hide nor hare of the diagram.
Any idea what these would be for? Could the blue be for the brake controller? Red? Orange???

I can't believe it is this difficult to find someone that has done this successfully.

Thanks for the help - Paul

 

@Spike555
I have a Prodigy RF Wireless controller. So I do not have to hook up a brake control module. All I need to do is set up a trigger.... I might be able to pull directly off of the brake light feed?

I feel as though I am the only one that has really tried to go away from the regular flat 4 pin and I must really be blazing a trail here!

 

Take that crap back. Get the adapter that is plug and play from Atlantic British!!

 

@ oilspotLR.

So this is what I have:
Land Rover Trailer Wiring Kit (Same Fit As Genuine Part # HIL-734)

It connects to the 7 pin round that this( Trailer Connector - 7-Way European Round To Flat-4 Conversion - Land Rover wiring\fuses\horns from Atlantic British ) connects to leaving me with the flat 4 connector.

What I want to convert over to to connect to the brake module on the trailer is this type of 7 pin:
Adapter 4 Pole to 7 Pole and 4 Pole w/Test Lamps Curt Wiring C57674

I messaged Atlantic British and they told me they did not know how to do that.

All they have is what I already have.

 

Have you been to a actual travel trailer store where they sell trailers, install hitches and wiring?
I think that would be your best bet, or at the very least buy the wire kit you need and have them install a brand new one and delete the current one.

 

with the 7 pole connector you have 4 extra wires, 1 goes to reverse light, 1 goes to brake controller (brake controller ties into brake then sends signal to trailer based on level of braking), 1 goes to ground and i believe the 4th needs to go to an ignition source (on when vehicle is on) for charging the braking battery on the trailer.

Post a picture of the wiring diagram from the 7 pole.