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I’ll look on mine when I get home, I could have sworn it had a section for it. I use it mainly on the LR3 as it had the ability to reset the maintenance reminder & a few other LR3 specific things.
I updated my iCarsoft LR II to 12.20 - Still no specific SRS codes
I disconnected the battery and pulled the airbag fuse - SRS code came back
I bought a new battery and let the system discharge - SRS code came back
I wiggled the seat belt tensioners - SRS code came back
Next steps - remove drivers seat and check seatbelt tensioner wiring & connections
Some additional history about this issue
The code started to appear after running the seat heater for an hour
Sometimes, the SRS light will go out and stay off but, by the end of the day it comes back on.
Sometimes, I start the truck to warm is up and the SRS light does not come on. After a few minutes it comes back
I removed the seat and checked all the connections and it all looked good. So I plug in the iCarsoft LR II and with the seat out and disconnected from the truck I got a code for open circuit in the seatbelt tensioner.
I then disconnected the battery
Pulled airbag fuse
Disconnected airbag wires
Put seat back in truck
Hooked airbag wires back up
Replaced fuse
Hooked battery up
Cleared existing codes
SRS P00000 came right back on
With the truck running, I went back and cleared the SRS P0000
So far it has not come back on
Last edited by Friday Night Disco; 09-28-2019 at 01:43 PM.
Reason: Trump said he would withhold my money
Just got back, drove the truck for about 20 miles and SRS light came back on and getting the P0000
I am at a loss as to what the issue is.
Any thoughts?
I am going to try this below next...
Originally Posted by mln01
Problem solved! Before I ordered the overlay harness I wanted to confirm I would be able to remove the two driver airbag wires from the DCU multiconnector so I unplugged the connector. The wires were easy to remove, and while I had them out I decided to test continuity again. To my surprise the short was gone!. I reinserted the leads into the connector and the short returned. That meant that the short was occurring inside the connector, despite it being designed to prevent shorts and despite there having been no problem with it for 16 years. And despite there being no other shorts among the other 13 wires in the connector.
I decided to take two approaches. First, I tried to figure out how to clean the connector caviities. It turned out that l used a pipe cleaner to run through the cavities. The white pipe cleaner came out clean; there was no visible sign of any corrosion or other contamination. In retrospect I wish I had used some kind of solvent on the pipe cleaner, perhaps electrical contact cleaner.
Because no contaminants were obvious inside the connector I next looked at trying to add insulation to the exposed ends of the two wires. Each wire in the connector has a bare metal terminal that clicks into the connector. Somehow current was passing between the two terminals in cavities 1 and 2. The terminals fit fairly snugly into the cavities so there wasn't much clearance to try to add insulation. Not enough clearance for the thickness of electrical tape, for example. I decided to try something very unconventional. I wrapped each terminal with Scotch brand Magic Tape, the kind you use to wrap gifts.
After taking both steps I reinstalled the wires and the connector and connected the battery. When I turned the key to position II the SRS light illuminated briefly and then turned off.
I wish I had tested the system after I cleaned the connector but in the interest of time I went ahead with adding the Scotch tape before testing. I expect that there was some sort of chemical contamination causing the short because there was no sign of physical damage to the connector or the terminals.
The moral of the story - diagnose, diagnose, diagnose.
(I apologize that I don’t have better photos or more of them. It was getting dark and I was short on time.)
Last edited by Friday Night Disco; 09-28-2019 at 04:28 PM.
You could use wire bridges to begin effectively jumping wire pairs together to rule them out one by one, assuming that a closed circuit is "normal" and an open throws the code.....at least a moderately quick process even if it sounds silly. Just a thought.
I have the steering column torn apart waiting for the part
FYI - This is not that difficult to do, my tip would be remove the instrument cluster and get a T30 1/4" drive from Harbor Freight (will post a picture later in my final write up)
UPDATE
I replace the rotary coupler, that I got used from Will Tillery, and that resolved the SRS issue.
Here is the tool I used to get the screws off the back of the steering wheel. You do not have to remove the instrument cluster but, I did anyways since I needed to replace a bulb on the odometer.
UPDATE
SRS came back on and I was going to ram Tricky Dick into a tree to see if the airbags worked...I decided, as I was driving down the road and going insane by this rattling coming from my glove box area that I would go ahead and check out the passenger side airbag.
Couple of things....
I found a lot of loose nuts behind the glove box that was causing the rattling. If you have a rattle that will not go away I would suggest pulling of the glove box and looking inside to the upper right and left. My bolts were 1/4 unthreaded.
I unplugged the airbag while truck was running, immediately got the electrical fault code from the passenger side. Reconnected, cleared codes, and the SRS light has not come back yet. I am crossing my fingers that the passenger side airbag was the issue and a loose connection was causing the SRS light to come on.
Summary
Disconnect seatbelt tensioner on driver side and get an immediate open fault
Disconnect seatbelt tensioner on passenger side and get an immediate open circuit fault
Disconnect passenger side airbag and get an immediate open circuit fault
Disconnect drivers side airbag and get an immediate open circuit fault (I even replaced the rotary coupler)
I did read that the SRS light can be caused by a bad ECU but, unclear as to how that would have happened (side note...my diff lock gear does not appear on my gauge cluster any more when I start truck or engage CDL)
What else am I missing or what else should I be testing?
Last edited by Friday Night Disco; 11-16-2019 at 05:45 PM.
I faced a similar issue. Replaced the rotary coupler five years ago. The SRS light would intermittently come on and off. Nanocom says it was an open airbag circuit. The truck was at the shop for a bigger repair job. So, I asked them to check into the problem. The shop replaced the rotary coupler and the light continued to come on and off. The shop did more checks and indicated it was most likely an issue with the ECU. It was replaced over a year ago and no more issues.
08-28-2019, 12:27 PM
