Turbo Charger
#11
The Rv8 is a great engine to boost, mainly because the ports and valves are not well sized for making big hp numbers from the outset. It is also a very hard engine to get to produce big numbers (in comparison to a SBC for example).
Turbocharging is a lot lower stess than making the same hp with a nat-asp engine, and when done properly, and using a pair of widebands to monitor fuelling should be very easy to set up, monitor, and will perform reliably.
A pair of junkyard GT1752 turbo's from the Saab 93/95 would be a great match to the 40 and 4.6 - these are modern, low-inertia units that'll start making usefull boost at 1500rpm, and full boost by 2500 rpm est.
Given the CR of the stock engine, I'd definately intercool it, and limit it to 8, maybe 10psi. Use the torque of the engine, not red-line RPM's and it'll hold up well.
NOTE: If you aren't willing to spend $320 on two AEM wideband O2 sensors, another $1000 on an ECU to control the sparks and fuel, and another $600 or more on setting up, then it will end in failure. Lean mixtures and incorrect ignition is why forced-induction RV8's have a bad rap. Any engine whether it's a RV8, Subaru Boxer, Bugatti W16, or a geo-metro 1 litre, will melt pistons and quit running if it doesn't recieve sufficient fuel or has bad ignition timing... Anyone who says otherwise, is simply un-educated. Forged pistons are not neccesary either - the stock 4.0/4,6 pistons look like a pretty good design IMO. Forged is no better than cast for resisting detonation - they are just stronger - but RPM's is what'll kill them (or bad mixture/timing), not the application of a litte boost (yes, I consider 10psi to be pretty small boost all said and done).
I don't care what anyone else says, I wouldn't trust the stock ECU to provide enough fuel for even 3psi of boost. The ignition might accomodate - it does have knock sensors after all; but I suspect it might push outside of the parameters and it'll throw a code.
Personally - I'd piggy back off the stock crank sensor, throw resistors across the stock injector sockets (so the Bosch ECU thinks it is still driving the injectors) and use an aftermarket ECU to supply the fuel. This way, the tach will still work, Cruise will still function, and the various modules will still talk to each other thinking all is good.
With some jiggery pokery, you could feed through the stock airflow meter too, but apply a few tricks to keep this also thinking all is good and it is simply supplying a nat-asp v8 so it won't throw a code.
That's enough for now. If the OP is serious, I can provide a lot of pointers and assistnace if needed.
Turbocharging is a lot lower stess than making the same hp with a nat-asp engine, and when done properly, and using a pair of widebands to monitor fuelling should be very easy to set up, monitor, and will perform reliably.
A pair of junkyard GT1752 turbo's from the Saab 93/95 would be a great match to the 40 and 4.6 - these are modern, low-inertia units that'll start making usefull boost at 1500rpm, and full boost by 2500 rpm est.
Given the CR of the stock engine, I'd definately intercool it, and limit it to 8, maybe 10psi. Use the torque of the engine, not red-line RPM's and it'll hold up well.
NOTE: If you aren't willing to spend $320 on two AEM wideband O2 sensors, another $1000 on an ECU to control the sparks and fuel, and another $600 or more on setting up, then it will end in failure. Lean mixtures and incorrect ignition is why forced-induction RV8's have a bad rap. Any engine whether it's a RV8, Subaru Boxer, Bugatti W16, or a geo-metro 1 litre, will melt pistons and quit running if it doesn't recieve sufficient fuel or has bad ignition timing... Anyone who says otherwise, is simply un-educated. Forged pistons are not neccesary either - the stock 4.0/4,6 pistons look like a pretty good design IMO. Forged is no better than cast for resisting detonation - they are just stronger - but RPM's is what'll kill them (or bad mixture/timing), not the application of a litte boost (yes, I consider 10psi to be pretty small boost all said and done).
I don't care what anyone else says, I wouldn't trust the stock ECU to provide enough fuel for even 3psi of boost. The ignition might accomodate - it does have knock sensors after all; but I suspect it might push outside of the parameters and it'll throw a code.
Personally - I'd piggy back off the stock crank sensor, throw resistors across the stock injector sockets (so the Bosch ECU thinks it is still driving the injectors) and use an aftermarket ECU to supply the fuel. This way, the tach will still work, Cruise will still function, and the various modules will still talk to each other thinking all is good.
With some jiggery pokery, you could feed through the stock airflow meter too, but apply a few tricks to keep this also thinking all is good and it is simply supplying a nat-asp v8 so it won't throw a code.
That's enough for now. If the OP is serious, I can provide a lot of pointers and assistnace if needed.
#14
#16
Is your check engine light disconnected? When you turn the key on you should see it light up in the top left corner of your gauges. If it doesn't light up then you may have some other issues that are hidden, I've been there.[/QUOTE]
Yep my engine light doesnt come on when i turn the key. was wondering about that where do i check to see if its disconnected? also should i have it checked for codes?
Yep my engine light doesnt come on when i turn the key. was wondering about that where do i check to see if its disconnected? also should i have it checked for codes?
#18
#19
#20