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Turn the key, no start DI

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  #11  
Old 03-20-2010, 06:28 PM
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Danny, its your starter, you need a new one.
They get "hot spots" on them and when you try to turn the engine over if the starter has stopped on that spot it wont work, next time it happens tap the key a few times.
My truck does the same thing but not as often as yours.
This is common on DI's and a new starter will solve the issue.

You can remove your starter and take it apart and clean up the hot spots with a wire brush.
I am going to have mine rebuilt at a electrical shop.
 
  #12  
Old 03-20-2010, 07:48 PM
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I would either say bad started solenoid or dirty electrical connections. To test the first one make sure the rover is in park with the key on. Either crawl under it or have a buddy crawl under it with a screw driver. Try jumping from the power in terminal on the starter relay to the power out, there are three connections, two with big wires and one with small. Jump between the two with the big wires using the shaft of the screw driver. Careful so the screw driver does not weld itself to the bolts or touch anything else that is metal. If it starts you need a new starter, or starter solenoid. Once again, make sure the disco is in park when you do this, otherwise you could run yourself over.
 
  #13  
Old 03-21-2010, 08:51 AM
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Thanks again for the inputs. I have seen the screwdriver across the terminals trick used before. My dad did that on some of his older hotrods.

I plan to clean everything good, and if that doesn't work, I'll drop the starter. Anyone know best price for getting a replacement?

I looked at the rave and it looks a bit of a PITA to pull these starters.
 
  #14  
Old 03-21-2010, 11:39 AM
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I went out and took a second look this morning. I decided to take the battery out to get a better look at the ground connections. They were terribly corroded. I put the ohmmeter from the black terminal to the first small bolt on the ground wire, read 0.5 ohms. Could not reach the final termination with the lead, but I read same half ohm to a new bolt head where I replaced the Bumper mounting bolts.

Why is the strap grouded in two places? Since the main termination is kind of a PITA to get too, I am tempted to relocate to a different place to ground a new cable. I am considering using that new bumper mounting bolthead to install new cable. Any Opinions?

Hopefully a new cable will resolve it while I look for replacement starter.

Anybody on here ever use one from AutoZone, NAPA or other source?

Or Should I bite bullet and order from a Rover place? Will post pics later when completed. Thanks again everyone.
 
  #15  
Old 03-21-2010, 03:19 PM
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How good are the starters from the autoparts stores?
I dont know, but I do know they all come from the same place just have different branded boxes.

And I can tell you from personal exprience that their alternators are pure junk.
Spend the money and get a brand new one or a used Rover one.
I went thru 4 alts in under 2 years before I finally got a good one.
 
  #16  
Old 03-22-2010, 09:27 AM
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Yeah, I kind of knew that, but thought I would ask just in case. I plan to drop the starter, but first I think I need to check Ignition Switch X134.

I remember it was a little touchy when I first got the vehicle, and I have the binnacle loose and can see in there. I need to get familar with it before I go probing around further. If it checks out, I'll drop the starter. Can they be rebuilt?

I also plan to check with local salvage and other Disco Owners to see if they have a spare one. If not then I'll go with one of the major Rover suppliers. I have dealt with RN in the past, but will check around.

I replace the negative cable yesterday, the old one looked rough, but no change in the beast with the new cable. Guess a lot of stuff need updating, so I am refreshing as much as possible when I do replace parts.

Once again, all input appreciated. If anyone has pics of ignition circuit stuff, I would like to see them.
 
  #17  
Old 03-22-2010, 09:43 AM
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Anything else not working? I had a leaky windshield and it was leaking right onto the fuse box. It is relatively easy to pull and you can find them on e-bay. I could see a little bit of water traces under the MFU on the back.

I had the same symptoms, only to add that if I left the key on in the ignition, it would start on it's own if I was parked on a hill...
 
  #18  
Old 03-22-2010, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by okdiscoguy

I had the same symptoms, only to add that if I left the key on in the ignition, it would start on it's own if I was parked on a hill...
Man how did you figure that one out?
Did you come outside one day after lunch and the engine was running?
Parked on a hill is pretty specific, must have been a fluke huh?
 
  #19  
Old 03-22-2010, 11:18 AM
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I had already been through everything else. My rear wiper worked on and off. The key had to be turned on for it to start. Scared the crap out of me. I just had the key on listening to the radio, parked the opposite direction in the drive that I normally do. It just started. Pulled the fuse box, and there was a good amount of water inside. I could have cleaned it and glued it back together, but got another good one for $50 from a local guy.

I had already been through the MFU and the rear wiper circuit was not getting voltage all the time from the MFU. I jumpered in a fused lead bypassing the paower to the relay so the wiper worked. I already knew something was fishy in the fuse box, just not how bad it was...

No probs since.
 
  #20  
Old 03-22-2010, 11:27 AM
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Sweet.
 


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