That was when I first got her. I learned a lot through Rave and tering into things. Now I juat need to wait on my neighbor. He has a 97 RR HSE and is dead set on putting a GM engine and drivetrain it. He is going to GIVE me the block. 100K on it, no leaks. My D2 should be running by fall.

 

Latest Update:

Located a used starter at local import salvage yard for $35 plus 10 core charge, so my son is running me down later this afternoon to pick it up.

Went out this morning, son turned key and it fired right up, so I pulled it up further in the driveway onto a nice level paved section and shut it off. It cranked right back up, but I am leery of trusting it so I plan to go ahead and drop in the used starter and take old starter to local rebuilder to take a look see about rebuilding it and keeping as a spare.

Still need to look at ignition switch position 3 circuit. If it fails to start prior to replacement I will attemp continuity readings, as I have not done that yet.

Have pics to post but I have a problem downloading onto this pc.

Thanks again for all input.

 

im trying to understand what you mean here when you say this.
do you mean while turning the key the lights(overhead) stay bright or do they dim down while turning the key?
or, do your lights go out completely when turning the key but come back on after your done trying to turn it(crank it)?

ive had so many cars with problems starting and only had to replace an ignition switch and starter once, the starter was because fuel was leaking onto it and ugh.. im glad to be alive so to speak.
the rest were just loose/corroded connections at the starter and battery.

 

What it does is it worked fine at times, then turn the key next time, dead silence, as if there were absolutely no juice to starter, other times it turned right over and fired right up.

Finally got around to looking at the existing starter, looks like the original and very nasty and corroded from what I can see. I have the windshield washer reservoir out, and can access things much easier.

I will remove the heat sheild first chance I get and drop the old starter out and put in the used one I picked up locally. I wanted to run the used one thru a local electrical shop first, but I'll do that with the removed one. The used one looks pretty good, it was from a 96 DI.

I started a new thread with questions regarding starter removal. Rave says to jack up vehicle and drop front prop shaft, I plan on going at it front above since I have the reservoir out. Wish I had done it when I had the exhaust manifolds off, it would have been so much easier to get to.

 

Danny, here's what I would do:

Check small term @ starter solenoid for 12v with key in "crank"

if good, the starter comes out, it's a dead spot on the armature or a bad solenoid.
(will cause random "no crank")

If no good, it's the neutral safety or the ign switch

This is aSSuming good batt, electrical conn, etc.


luck,greg

 

danny lee i have a 97 disco also and im having the same problem i went to see what i else i needed to do to get an inspection sticker got ther shut it off and went to move it to the garage and nothing vip auto went to start it to move it later that day and it started i went to pick it up and same thing nothing they said my battery, alt, and starter showed good on there test machine so if you find the fix for this problem please let me know so i can try it good luck and if i find anything ill give you a hollar thank armyeng.

 

Today I was going to replace the starter. The damn allen cap screws that hold the starter in would not budge.

I ended up changing the frame end mounting point for the negative cable, the original point was very dirty and corroded. New ground, it works steadily. Will get a better allen extension and replace starter later.

 

I really don't think the starter is your problem. If it was the solenoid, it would still tick when cold, and maybe nothing when warm, but the whole "hot spot" theory is not applicable. That just means in some places it will spin, and in the "hot spots", it will just tick.

 

Aren't those bolts little stinkers?

I put my 2ft long snap-on screwdriver on the head of the top one & "boxed it's ears" so to speak - it co-operated after that. (similiar with the bottom)

After 50 years, I still don't follow instructions, I suggest following the rave cd re: starter removal to the letter (although I did the top bolt from above)

That would have saved me over an hour trying to do it "my way"


luck,greg

 

Is there any real need for the use of the damn cap screws? Wouldn't a standard bolt head do? What advantage is the cap screw?

I am not a fastener expert, but unless there is a definite advantane I was planning on replacing with a standard bolt.

Anyone?

The starter may not be the cause, it is working steady since redoing it's ground connection, but I hate to get stranded again............