Hi Everyone,

After trying to mess around with the (very) worn out 4.6 in my 2003 Disco, I have decided to buy a Turner short block from England. Working out a plan:

Purchasing:
Turner 4.6 short block with Kent Camshaft
Lifters, pushrods

Bought:
ARP Head Studs
Elring Head Gasket / Gaskets
Spark Plugs / Wires
Coils
Oil Pump
Waterpump

Planning on reusing:
Heads (resurfaced, new valve guides, port & polished)
Rockers
Front Cover (from a 4.6 out of Vin Range)
Oil pan (cleaned)
Valve Covers (painted)
Intake (painted)
Injectors
Cooling System (replaced entirely 100 miles before engine blew)

Questions:

1. Should I re-use the old rockers? The machine shop said they look good.

2. Should the front cover work from the old engine or should I spend the extra for a new one? The oil pump was not damaged when it was removed.

3. What are the torque specs on the ARP Studs? I've read 20-40-60 and 25-50-80?

Any other thoughts? Planning on buying the short block tomorrow.

 

I believe I've read that the 60lb torque sequence is correct. At 80lb people were pulling threads out of the block.

New oil pump on your list?
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Good to know about the ARP. I already have a new oil pump from Atlantic British. Had it as a backup.

 

Keep the old front cover but DEFINITELY put the new pump in. Don't keep it for a backup. Replace it every 80k miles.

When they go in these engines they go hard. And they do go even outside the VIN range.

 

Check the rocker shafts for diameter, scoring, clogged oil holes. Replace if needed

For the rocker arms, the factory ones are aluminum and pretty much all aftermarket ones are steel. The aftermarket ones look ghetto as heck, but I've read that steel is better and quieter? Who knows. If I were replacing the rods and lifters, I'd probably drop the $70 or whatever for new arms as well.

 

Get a bottle of Comp Cams cam lube to use for all the valve train touch points (valve to rocker arm, rocker arm cup to rod, lifter to rod
Make sure to set the preload correctly on all the lifters

The overhaul manual has some specs for testing the front cover for wear.

 

When re-assembling the engine use a proprietary assembly lubricant on ALL bearing surfaces which preps the surfaces until the oil pump lubes them properly with sump oil.

Assembly Oils, Greases and Lubes - Engine Builder Magazine

Engine Assembly Lube | eBay

 

You are going to love the Turner! I ended up going with the long block because once I priced out redoing the heads, new front cover, water pump, gaskets, etc. it wasn't too far off in price. Not to mention, they had everything lubed and assembled. Take care to break in the cam and new engine properly. Best of luck! It's nice to have a quiet, smooth engine that should last a long time.

 

I agree totally. New pump in box is ready to go. This engine went very, very hard at the end.

The rocker shafts are in specs. I'm just going to reuse them. Ordered the Comp Cams lube with the engine. I'll definitely check out the overhaul manual.

Noted. That was a good article from Engine Builder. Thanks for sending.

I read your entire thread and I am glad to hear you are happy with it! I already had the heads redone a long time ago in case I ever needed some quickly. The Rover engine in the truck has been anything but quiet and smooth lately; it will be a welcome relief.

Thanks for all the advice guys! Engine should be ordered by the end of the day!

 

When buying a long / short block like that, what's the total cost look like for core + shipping and such?

Or is a core even needed?

Just trying to get an idea of what total investment is SHOULD a disaster happen to me lol