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  #11  
Old 10-16-2013 | 08:25 PM
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I would go on and order it and get it replaced. You don't have to drain your coolant empty to replace the thermo. You lose maybe a gallon.

If you're tight on money I wouldn't wait to buy hoses and thermo together. I have well over 200k on a stock set. I know that's frowned upon by some, but I have replaced all the clamps with good stainless steel clamps from napa and haven't blown a hose.

I would wait til the next time I needed to do a complete coolant flush before getting hoses. Just my opinion though, because hoses, thermos, and coolant adds up quick.
 
  #12  
Old 10-16-2013 | 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Madlands
I would go on and order it and get it replaced. You don't have to drain your coolant empty to replace the thermo. You lose maybe a gallon.

If you're tight on money I wouldn't wait to buy hoses and thermo together. I have well over 200k on a stock set. I know that's frowned upon by some, but I have replaced all the clamps with good stainless steel clamps from napa and haven't blown a hose.

I would wait til the next time I needed to do a complete coolant flush before getting hoses. Just my opinion though, because hoses, thermos, and coolant adds up quick.
It does indeed which is why I have not got around to doing it yet. With my engine ticking all the time Im thinking it may be a good idea to just replace all the hoses and thermostat now (well in afew weeks) and get the tires after. I also live on very step hill and my truck is fully loaded so more stress on my engine. I have not installed the thermostat I ordered, but ill keep it as a backup in case i need it. Im going to order to RN 180 degree stat and use that right off. Thanks for the tips.
 
  #13  
Old 10-16-2013 | 08:46 PM
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I got a 180 motorad too, works fine. If I were you I will take rusty offer right away. And just to let you know my temp reach 212 (highest) with heavy (mean extra heavy) traffic and when cruising it gets from 195-204.
 

Last edited by san988; 10-16-2013 at 08:49 PM.
  #14  
Old 10-16-2013 | 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by ZGPhoto

No sir... it is PEL500110, the one you listed is an atlantic british part number, and G means OEM, not GEN which is genuine.
That's OEM land rover grey one, the part number is off bputah. Sorry for the confusion.
 
  #15  
Old 10-16-2013 | 09:01 PM
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No worries, I just want people to know the part number so there's less confusion. This has been a long ordeal haha. As you can see in those photos on BP's site there's no G in the part number. Not sure what the point of adding a G is...
 
  #16  
Old 10-16-2013 | 09:09 PM
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Yeah I just copied it right from the website. I'm not sure why the g either. Haha but thanks for clearing that up I hate giving wrong information.
 
  #17  
Old 10-16-2013 | 11:23 PM
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Good info.. Help me understand.. What does replacing the thermostat do exactly? Is it just more accurate readings, or does it actually somehow help reduce the overall temp of the engine? Pardon me if this is a newbie question, but I am not a wrencher.. At least not yet!
 
  #18  
Old 10-16-2013 | 11:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Eldonkey
Good info.. Help me understand.. What does replacing the thermostat do exactly? Is it just more accurate readings, or does it actually somehow help reduce the overall temp of the engine? Pardon me if this is a newbie question, but I am not a wrencher.. At least not yet!
As simple as I can think to explain it...Your disco comes with 190* thermo meaning it doesn't open until coolant reaches that 190*. Switching to a good 180* thermo gives you the ability to possibly drop engine temps by around 10*, which is a pretty big difference once your motor is above the 200* towing or idling.

In short cooler engine temp = longer engine life! and these old motors need all the help they can get to keep cool.
 
  #19  
Old 10-17-2013 | 12:07 AM
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I see. So the thermo opening releases coolant 10 degrees earlier, thus helping prevent overheating and eventual engine failure?
 
  #20  
Old 10-17-2013 | 06:40 AM
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Exactly
 


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