Updating electronics in 2000 disco - HELP
#1
04-04-2015, 07:45 PM
Updating electronics in 2000 disco - HELP
First, I'm a new owner. Driving this vehicle is fun but you need to be very good at driving this beast. I've done the front brakes (pads & rotors), plugs, wires, and coil pack on Monday.
Sidenote- the brake light is on 65% of the time. And no, the parking brake is not on and fluid is full! Replacing calipers and possibly brake cylinder????
And check engine light is on too! Hopefully replacing coil packs end my sleepless nights thanks to that check engine light.
-Sidenote over!
I'd like to add a pioneer double din head unit and rig a rear view camera to the unit. Suggestions on where and how to run or install this camera is welcomed.
Also, I'd like to add two led work lights. My first thought was to add the lights to aid with being able to see. I was intending to connect the lights to the backup lights. But I could imagine a scenario where I would want some bright light to appear. So, should I run the lights on a relay switch?!
I'd really appreciate if someone could lead me to a diagram or video on how to remove a headliner in this vehicle. Really trying to avoid the headliner sag. The headliner sag is worse than the jean sag!
Seriously, I need help and lots of it.
Sidenote- the brake light is on 65% of the time. And no, the parking brake is not on and fluid is full! Replacing calipers and possibly brake cylinder????
And check engine light is on too! Hopefully replacing coil packs end my sleepless nights thanks to that check engine light.
-Sidenote over!
I'd like to add a pioneer double din head unit and rig a rear view camera to the unit. Suggestions on where and how to run or install this camera is welcomed.
Also, I'd like to add two led work lights. My first thought was to add the lights to aid with being able to see. I was intending to connect the lights to the backup lights. But I could imagine a scenario where I would want some bright light to appear. So, should I run the lights on a relay switch?!
I'd really appreciate if someone could lead me to a diagram or video on how to remove a headliner in this vehicle. Really trying to avoid the headliner sag. The headliner sag is worse than the jean sag!
Seriously, I need help and lots of it.
Last edited by Ranu2222; 04-04-2015 at 07:49 PM.
#2
04-05-2015, 09:17 AM
#3
04-05-2015, 09:59 AM
Camel Trophy
Ok, I'm going to try to address everything at once.
As for the brake line, there's a sensor that pretty commonly messes up that tells you whether or not your Park brake is on. Mine does the same thing, nothing to worry about. Just annoying.
As for codes, go get them read, or better yet order a cheap Bluetooth OBD2 reader from Amazon (I have the blue one) and then use it with the torque app ($5.99) on an android device. You will not have a fun time just throwing parts at it until it's fixed. Unless you have a misfire, your problem isn't coils.
The factory radio is 1.5 din, going double din will require cutting and fabricating which won't be fun. You can do it, but I recommend going single din from Crutchfield so you get everything you need all at once.
Reverse camera would be nice. I recommend running the wires under the headliner. Theres not really much other place to hide wires. If you want the display down low then you can run the wire down the a pillar and back behind your dash.
Reverse lights, this is a mod I'll be doing in the future also. LED work lights draw a decent amount of power, definitely run a relay and just have it turn on with your reverse lights.
Head liner is simple, but time consuming. You'll need a cup, a socket set, a knife, a drill, and a long Phillips drill bit. Start in the front, remove the visor, 3-4 screws each. Then do the top pockets. Theres a bunch of screws, then pop the light cover off of the front light. Theres, I think, a nut in there. Might be another Phillips screw. Then you'll have to unhook the buttons and light wires. Then there's the pieces that the visor clips to, you're probably going to break these. Use your knife to pop the little tabs open, then unscrew them. Did the tab break off? Yep, thought so. Ok, moving back, now we're doing handles. These shouldn't break like the visor clips, pop the tabs and unbolt them. Moving to the back seat, same deal as the front "Oh sh*t!" handles. Then pop open the light, remove the screw/nut/bolt/whatever. You'll also need to pull out the sun roof button, unhook it, and remove the screw that was above it. Okay, moving to the back. Pop the light cover, remove your nuts. Finally, the last pieces of trim. Starring from the front, pop out the a pillars. You should be able to just pull these, but you may need to pry them. Now to the b pillars, you'll first need to pull your door seals. Just grab on and pull, and only pull enough so that you can see the clips holding on the b pillars. Those are pretty simple to get out. Now we're moving back to the back. First needs to be the top center piece in the very back of the rood. This has the same type of clip as the front a pillars. Finally, the two pieces of trim around the rear windows. Theres a whole bunch of push buttons that need to be pulled and a few screws with covers you'll have to pop open with your knife. Now, if you were smart you've already put all your screws, tabs, and buttons in your cup. Pretty simple, just time consuming. Best of luck!
As for the brake line, there's a sensor that pretty commonly messes up that tells you whether or not your Park brake is on. Mine does the same thing, nothing to worry about. Just annoying.
As for codes, go get them read, or better yet order a cheap Bluetooth OBD2 reader from Amazon (I have the blue one) and then use it with the torque app ($5.99) on an android device. You will not have a fun time just throwing parts at it until it's fixed. Unless you have a misfire, your problem isn't coils.
The factory radio is 1.5 din, going double din will require cutting and fabricating which won't be fun. You can do it, but I recommend going single din from Crutchfield so you get everything you need all at once.
Reverse camera would be nice. I recommend running the wires under the headliner. Theres not really much other place to hide wires. If you want the display down low then you can run the wire down the a pillar and back behind your dash.
Reverse lights, this is a mod I'll be doing in the future also. LED work lights draw a decent amount of power, definitely run a relay and just have it turn on with your reverse lights.
Head liner is simple, but time consuming. You'll need a cup, a socket set, a knife, a drill, and a long Phillips drill bit. Start in the front, remove the visor, 3-4 screws each. Then do the top pockets. Theres a bunch of screws, then pop the light cover off of the front light. Theres, I think, a nut in there. Might be another Phillips screw. Then you'll have to unhook the buttons and light wires. Then there's the pieces that the visor clips to, you're probably going to break these. Use your knife to pop the little tabs open, then unscrew them. Did the tab break off? Yep, thought so. Ok, moving back, now we're doing handles. These shouldn't break like the visor clips, pop the tabs and unbolt them. Moving to the back seat, same deal as the front "Oh sh*t!" handles. Then pop open the light, remove the screw/nut/bolt/whatever. You'll also need to pull out the sun roof button, unhook it, and remove the screw that was above it. Okay, moving to the back. Pop the light cover, remove your nuts. Finally, the last pieces of trim. Starring from the front, pop out the a pillars. You should be able to just pull these, but you may need to pry them. Now to the b pillars, you'll first need to pull your door seals. Just grab on and pull, and only pull enough so that you can see the clips holding on the b pillars. Those are pretty simple to get out. Now we're moving back to the back. First needs to be the top center piece in the very back of the rood. This has the same type of clip as the front a pillars. Finally, the two pieces of trim around the rear windows. Theres a whole bunch of push buttons that need to be pulled and a few screws with covers you'll have to pop open with your knife. Now, if you were smart you've already put all your screws, tabs, and buttons in your cup. Pretty simple, just time consuming. Best of luck!
The following users liked this post:
Ranu2222 (04-07-2015)
#4
04-05-2015, 04:12 PM
Ok, I'm going to try to address everything at once.
As for the brake line, there's a sensor that pretty commonly messes up that tells you whether or not your Park brake is on. Mine does the same thing, nothing to worry about. Just annoying.
As for codes, go get them read, or better yet order a cheap Bluetooth OBD2 reader from Amazon (I have the blue one) and then use it with the torque app ($5.99) on an android device. You will not have a fun time just throwing parts at it until it's fixed. Unless you have a misfire, your problem isn't coils.
The factory radio is 1.5 din, going double din will require cutting and fabricating which won't be fun. You can do it, but I recommend going single din from Crutchfield so you get everything you need all at once.
Reverse camera would be nice. I recommend running the wires under the headliner. Theres not really much other place to hide wires. If you want the display down low then you can run the wire down the a pillar and back behind your dash.
Reverse lights, this is a mod I'll be doing in the future also. LED work lights draw a decent amount of power, definitely run a relay and just have it turn on with your reverse lights.
Head liner is simple, but time consuming. You'll need a cup, a socket set, a knife, a drill, and a long Phillips drill bit. Start in the front, remove the visor, 3-4 screws each. Then do the top pockets. Theres a bunch of screws, then pop the light cover off of the front light. Theres, I think, a nut in there. Might be another Phillips screw. Then you'll have to unhook the buttons and light wires. Then there's the pieces that the visor clips to, you're probably going to break these. Use your knife to pop the little tabs open, then unscrew them. Did the tab break off? Yep, thought so. Ok, moving back, now we're doing handles. These shouldn't break like the visor clips, pop the tabs and unbolt them. Moving to the back seat, same deal as the front "Oh sh*t!" handles. Then pop open the light, remove the screw/nut/bolt/whatever. You'll also need to pull out the sun roof button, unhook it, and remove the screw that was above it. Okay, moving to the back. Pop the light cover, remove your nuts. Finally, the last pieces of trim. Starring from the front, pop out the a pillars. You should be able to just pull these, but you may need to pry them. Now to the b pillars, you'll first need to pull your door seals. Just grab on and pull, and only pull enough so that you can see the clips holding on the b pillars. Those are pretty simple to get out. Now we're moving back to the back. First needs to be the top center piece in the very back of the rood. This has the same type of clip as the front a pillars. Finally, the two pieces of trim around the rear windows. Theres a whole bunch of push buttons that need to be pulled and a few screws with covers you'll have to pop open with your knife. Now, if you were smart you've already put all your screws, tabs, and buttons in your cup. Pretty simple, just time consuming. Best of luck!
As for the brake line, there's a sensor that pretty commonly messes up that tells you whether or not your Park brake is on. Mine does the same thing, nothing to worry about. Just annoying.
As for codes, go get them read, or better yet order a cheap Bluetooth OBD2 reader from Amazon (I have the blue one) and then use it with the torque app ($5.99) on an android device. You will not have a fun time just throwing parts at it until it's fixed. Unless you have a misfire, your problem isn't coils.
The factory radio is 1.5 din, going double din will require cutting and fabricating which won't be fun. You can do it, but I recommend going single din from Crutchfield so you get everything you need all at once.
Reverse camera would be nice. I recommend running the wires under the headliner. Theres not really much other place to hide wires. If you want the display down low then you can run the wire down the a pillar and back behind your dash.
Reverse lights, this is a mod I'll be doing in the future also. LED work lights draw a decent amount of power, definitely run a relay and just have it turn on with your reverse lights.
Head liner is simple, but time consuming. You'll need a cup, a socket set, a knife, a drill, and a long Phillips drill bit. Start in the front, remove the visor, 3-4 screws each. Then do the top pockets. Theres a bunch of screws, then pop the light cover off of the front light. Theres, I think, a nut in there. Might be another Phillips screw. Then you'll have to unhook the buttons and light wires. Then there's the pieces that the visor clips to, you're probably going to break these. Use your knife to pop the little tabs open, then unscrew them. Did the tab break off? Yep, thought so. Ok, moving back, now we're doing handles. These shouldn't break like the visor clips, pop the tabs and unbolt them. Moving to the back seat, same deal as the front "Oh sh*t!" handles. Then pop open the light, remove the screw/nut/bolt/whatever. You'll also need to pull out the sun roof button, unhook it, and remove the screw that was above it. Okay, moving to the back. Pop the light cover, remove your nuts. Finally, the last pieces of trim. Starring from the front, pop out the a pillars. You should be able to just pull these, but you may need to pry them. Now to the b pillars, you'll first need to pull your door seals. Just grab on and pull, and only pull enough so that you can see the clips holding on the b pillars. Those are pretty simple to get out. Now we're moving back to the back. First needs to be the top center piece in the very back of the rood. This has the same type of clip as the front a pillars. Finally, the two pieces of trim around the rear windows. Theres a whole bunch of push buttons that need to be pulled and a few screws with covers you'll have to pop open with your knife. Now, if you were smart you've already put all your screws, tabs, and buttons in your cup. Pretty simple, just time consuming. Best of luck!
I took her to CaribbeanRovers.com and Ricardo was a lot of help but he charged me for the reading... $80!!!! I've got multiple misfiring going on. They feel if I change the coil pack the check engine light will go off!
What's the name of the sensor for the brake light?
These simple fixes are making me feel much better about buying a Land Rover with NO car facts!
Again, any recommendations for sensors or wiring I should be wary of is always welcomed.
Thanks again!
#5
04-05-2015, 06:27 PM
Camel Trophy
Thanks, I give it my best!
That's crazy. For future reference, parts stores will read codes for free, I just like having my own scanner because it's handy and I can do it on the fly. I recommend not riding it with a misfire, misfires eat catalytic converters for breakfast.
Honestly, I can't remember off the top of my head. Ok, I just checked google. I just glanced, but looks like there's some more info here (http://forum.landrovernet.com/showthread.php/234574-Red-handbrake-warning-light-on-dashboard-of-discovery-2).
Haha, most fixes are simple, and at least they're relatively easy trucks to work on. Every once in a while you get one that's a real b*tch, but that's true with any vehicle.
MAF sensors are a common wear item when these trucks get high miles, same with O2 sensors. Also brake petal switches, which when they go out can prevent you from shifting out of park. I had that issue for a while before it miraculously fixed itself. Obviously head gaskets are an issue on these trucks, as well as cam and lifters if you don't use oil with a high zddp (zinc) content. Most guys run Shell Rotella. Other than that, there's not a lot I can think of. Just generally going through the high mileage maintenance sticky when you get one is a good idea, prevents a lot of head ache down the road.
Edit: Just saw you are from Puerto Rico, I'm not sure if the parts stores scanning for free is true there, all the rest should be though. Is yours the gas V8?
That's crazy. For future reference, parts stores will read codes for free, I just like having my own scanner because it's handy and I can do it on the fly. I recommend not riding it with a misfire, misfires eat catalytic converters for breakfast.
Honestly, I can't remember off the top of my head. Ok, I just checked google. I just glanced, but looks like there's some more info here (http://forum.landrovernet.com/showthread.php/234574-Red-handbrake-warning-light-on-dashboard-of-discovery-2).
Haha, most fixes are simple, and at least they're relatively easy trucks to work on. Every once in a while you get one that's a real b*tch, but that's true with any vehicle.
MAF sensors are a common wear item when these trucks get high miles, same with O2 sensors. Also brake petal switches, which when they go out can prevent you from shifting out of park. I had that issue for a while before it miraculously fixed itself. Obviously head gaskets are an issue on these trucks, as well as cam and lifters if you don't use oil with a high zddp (zinc) content. Most guys run Shell Rotella. Other than that, there's not a lot I can think of. Just generally going through the high mileage maintenance sticky when you get one is a good idea, prevents a lot of head ache down the road.
Edit: Just saw you are from Puerto Rico, I'm not sure if the parts stores scanning for free is true there, all the rest should be though. Is yours the gas V8?
The following users liked this post:
Ranu2222 (04-06-2015)
#6
04-06-2015, 10:40 PM
Thanks, I give it my best!
That's crazy. For future reference, parts stores will read codes for free, I just like having my own scanner because it's handy and I can do it on the fly. I recommend not riding it with a misfire, misfires eat catalytic converters for breakfast.
Honestly, I can't remember off the top of my head. Ok, I just checked google. I just glanced, but looks like there's some more info here (http://forum.landrovernet.com/showthread.php/234574-Red-handbrake-warning-light-on-dashboard-of-discovery-2).
Haha, most fixes are simple, and at least they're relatively easy trucks to work on. Every once in a while you get one that's a real b*tch, but that's true with any vehicle.
MAF sensors are a common wear item when these trucks get high miles, same with O2 sensors. Also brake petal switches, which when they go out can prevent you from shifting out of park. I had that issue for a while before it miraculously fixed itself. Obviously head gaskets are an issue on these trucks, as well as cam and lifters if you don't use oil with a high zddp (zinc) content. Most guys run Shell Rotella. Other than that, there's not a lot I can think of. Just generally going through the high mileage maintenance sticky when you get one is a good idea, prevents a lot of head ache down the road.
Edit: Just saw you are from Puerto Rico, I'm not sure if the parts stores scanning for free is true there, all the rest should be though. Is yours the gas V8?
That's crazy. For future reference, parts stores will read codes for free, I just like having my own scanner because it's handy and I can do it on the fly. I recommend not riding it with a misfire, misfires eat catalytic converters for breakfast.
Honestly, I can't remember off the top of my head. Ok, I just checked google. I just glanced, but looks like there's some more info here (http://forum.landrovernet.com/showthread.php/234574-Red-handbrake-warning-light-on-dashboard-of-discovery-2).
Haha, most fixes are simple, and at least they're relatively easy trucks to work on. Every once in a while you get one that's a real b*tch, but that's true with any vehicle.
MAF sensors are a common wear item when these trucks get high miles, same with O2 sensors. Also brake petal switches, which when they go out can prevent you from shifting out of park. I had that issue for a while before it miraculously fixed itself. Obviously head gaskets are an issue on these trucks, as well as cam and lifters if you don't use oil with a high zddp (zinc) content. Most guys run Shell Rotella. Other than that, there's not a lot I can think of. Just generally going through the high mileage maintenance sticky when you get one is a good idea, prevents a lot of head ache down the road.
Edit: Just saw you are from Puerto Rico, I'm not sure if the parts stores scanning for free is true there, all the rest should be though. Is yours the gas V8?
I also noticed my coolant is blue. Isn't supposed to be red??
Can't wait for my next day off! I got me some work to do.
#8
04-07-2015, 10:17 AM
Super Moderator
#9
04-12-2015, 06:47 PM
Replaced my coil pack and now my guy is saying the 02 sensors fault codes are showing up. It looks as if the sensors were previously replaced along with the catalytic converter. Mechanic also is questionable of the aftermarket sensor and converter.
She runs great, but the check engine soon light is driving me nuts! Can I just unplug the light?! Or should I spend another 300 bucks and replace the 02 sensors?! Is it a DIY kind of job for a beginner mechanic like myself?!
All I want to do is buy a car tent, put my double din in and hit the mountains or beaches of Puerto Rico without my check engine light! Is that too much to ask for?!
Help!
She runs great, but the check engine soon light is driving me nuts! Can I just unplug the light?! Or should I spend another 300 bucks and replace the 02 sensors?! Is it a DIY kind of job for a beginner mechanic like myself?!
All I want to do is buy a car tent, put my double din in and hit the mountains or beaches of Puerto Rico without my check engine light! Is that too much to ask for?!
Help!