So I had a mechanic get deeper into my engine to find the internal coolant leak after changing gaskets and messing around with it. (Original post if anyone cares: https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...-me-cry-63319/ )

First he had good news saying that it wasnt a head gasket after doing a compression test and finding no cylinder leaks.

Then he dropped the pan and pressurized the cooling system.......


...the verdict....slipped sleeve(s). Coolant dripping from cyl 7 and 8. My guess is it happened when my front cover sprung a nasty leak over the summer. I thought I caught it early but with the false readings on my UG due to no actual coolant running over the sensor (and the stupid hot day) it is probably what did it in.


So options now? Any idea of the cost of a cannibal v8 or GPR long block (4.0 non-sai) shipped? Worth it to get a used motor and do HGs myself?

 

Getting a used motor is only inviting more problems, I would only use a block that has been recondition and had flanged liners put in. I have a replacement block in my rover and because the company that replaced the engine before I bought my rover were idiots they used a block with the standard sleeves. Now I have to spend a lot of money fixing their mistake.

I do plan on getting a cannibal long block. After talking with both companies I think that cannibal will do a better job. However since I haven't used either engine don't take my word for it. Just some food for thought.

 

If your radiator isnt new and you are gonna dump the block anyway, you can bypass the heater core and run some Irontite through it.

If it works, get a new Nissen or Silla radiator (<= $200), an OEM 180 stat from Rovers North and you should be good to go.

If it doesnt work, the block was trash anyway, so you are only out a 10+ year old radiator.

 

ya its the original radiator, I was tempted to try some mechanic in a bottle fixes but where it's leaking I dont think gets hot enough to seal most of the products you can buy. At this point I cant really do any worse, it's pretty much dead.

 

Im no mechanic, but I assume if you are getting over-pressurization from exhaust in the coolant then the leak is somewhere near a combustion area. i.e. there should be plenty of heat.

Youll know pretty quick if it works too, cause once exhaust starts going through the crack itll seal (or not).

This was my thinking exactly.

Irontite you can only get from the company site. I got the flush and red seal.Irontite Sealers and Additives

If you dont want to deal with multiple drains of the cooling system, this stuff intrigues me and you can get it at any parts store. If youve seen a shirt with nanofibers vs. liquid, you know nanotech is no joke.

K&W Products/FiberLock head gasket and block repair (401224-6) | | AutoZone.com

Anyway, good luck with whatever you decide to do!

 

Mr Br0keit - put in Barr's leaks. You can't lose as the engine is toast anyway.

As long as you get an engine which was never overheated, you'll be OK.

These Rovers are going for $2,500 to $3,500 now in California.
Just come to California and plunk down cash and drive a rust free Discovery II home.

No sense spending any money on that truck now.
Get another one and run it around. Put parts from your current truck onto the new one or visa versa.

Yes, you need to get a cheap truck with a good engine and build a good Rover.

 

All good advice but do yourself a favor and call Steve at Cannibal and GPR.. if you can stomach the cost you will be much happier. Used stock motors are a total timebomb ....

 

I put a Complete GPR 4.0 in my 2000 Disco II. I'm very happy with my decision.

The motor has all of the necessary upgrades to solve the common failures...

Top Hat Sleeves
Ceramic Lined Coolant Passages
ARB Head Studs
Mild Cam that improves engine performance slightly

Due to time constraints, I had them supply a complete engine from the oil pan up, including a new oil pump and front cover. I just bolted everything from the lower intake plenum up.

Motor performs well.

Was a little expensive, but I had already made so many other repairs to the Rover, that I couldn't justify just letting it die.

 

I went over to the shop this morning to take a look at it, he put 10psi in the cooling system and that was enough for a steady stream to come dripping off the crank in the rear.

He also tried to pitch to me a block seal procedure he uses with pure water, drain, fill, drain, fill, let it run, let it sit, etc etc for like $300. I think for that money I'll take my chances and do it myself.

I'd love to get a new long block for the thing but cost is a factor right now (damned student loans!). But certainly rebuilt with top hats, and since I have a perfect interior and exterior and live in a state very well maintained roads I should get like 10 years at least out of a new engine.

I've already put in a new fuel pump, rear calipers, rotors and pads all around, new maf, new coolant hoses, cam pos sensor....

Non engine issues: needs new front ball joints, possibly 1 front hub, 3 Amigos need to be reset (I believe tripped due to frozen caliper which caused a shredded pad/rotor), new fuse panel due to blinker failure

After that I'd have a 0 scratch body, no body rust (undercarriage surface rust only), spotless interior (except I spilled some power steering stop leak in the "trunk" area). Oh, and it's green so there's that.

Worth getting an engine or should I cut and run at this point?


Ps I'm still going to at least try a really aggressive block seal at this point. The standard Barrs didnt help, no K-Seal but apparently (and despite the package instructions) if you use it with coolant, it keeps things from sealing properly. I'll try that ceramic seal and bypass my radiator and heater core while it does its work.

 

If you absolutely love the truck then I'd say just fix it. Find a bare block, put liners in it and swap all of your engine guts in it.