Greetings fellow Rover fans. Its been a while since I posted. Quick question... my water pump looks like it is giving up... leaking. Just wondering how hard the job is? I know I will replace pump, fan & clutch... am I missing anything for those who may have done this job already?

Cheers

 

easy,took me about an hour, in all. no need to replace fan, just the clutch. remove fan while drive belt is on. I stick a leather sheath or glove under belt to tension. cresent works. that nut is 36mm. its pretty easy to strip those water pump threads, i forgot the torque specs, but I found 2 sets of numbers....go with the smaller number if torquing. the high number has caused me to get out the taps. be sure belt is routed correctly.

 

Dusty is right, pretty easy job. I have had better luck hitting the 36mm wrench with a hammer to knock the fan loose.

 

Just did mine a couple of weeks ago. The hardest part of the job is getting all of the old gasket off of the block. I bought the special 36mm wrench at Napa, it wasn't that much.

As mentioned, the torque specs in the Rave manual are WAY too friggin' high. I don't know why that is because if you use them you will literately squash the gasket out. If you use the Permatex water pump sealant (which is RTV) just follow those directions which is - finger tight, wait one hour then additional 1/4 to 1/2 turn.

For some unknown reason my brand new OEM water pump leaked through the nose seal as soon as I started the engine to check for leaks. AB was very good about it and sent out a replacement pump overnight with a return shipping label and no questions. Replacing it the second time was a breeze since I had the procedure down pat and there was no old baked on gasket to remove.

So if the mean time between manufacture defect failure rate on those pumps is 1 in 100,000 I got the "one" and you guys are probably pretty safe for now. d:-)

I also replaced my idler pulley and tensioner as they were making some squeaky noises and put on a new belt. I did my heads about two years ago and replaced all of the hoses, thermostat and fan clutch at that time (probably should have replaced the water pump back then too but since it was good I decided to wait) I also flushed out the Dexcool and changed over to regular anti-freeze at that time, which is something I'd recommend if you haven't already done it. That orange stuff is nasty and caused all sorts of problems.

Anyway, running like a champ now

 

You might as well replace the viscous fan. Also may consider swapping out the tensioner, and serp belt... I was able to borrow the 36mm wrench from O'reilly for the weekend at no cost.

It took me 2 hours start to finish. I watched a few YouTube videos on how to do the job prior to beginning.

 

May want to use thread sealant on the long bolts. Rave doesn't say so, but I think they penetrate the water jacket.

 

X2 of sealant on long bolts. I also use a simple straight razor blade with no holder, just in my hand, and drag it backwards to remove old gasket sealer as not to cut the metal face of the housing. Also, cheap wrench to remove fan bolt here Performance Tool Fan Clutch Wrench Set — Ford Models, Model# W80585 | Specialty Tools| Northern Tool + Equipment

 

Thanks All!

I was out of pocket this weekend and away from the computer.

Cheers

 

I replaced my water pump this weekend and wanted to see if anyone has had a similar pump failure. I am not sure the reason for the port, but it appears to be a mini freeze out plug in the side of the pump. The arrow shows where I had water leaking from.

 

that little dude is like a warning weep hole. when the inner seal fails it will start peeing. supposed to be a heads up, replace me, before my other seal fails and I really screw things up, feature