Yes another one........ I did a bit of searching but did not find anything specific to my question.

I noticed my temps on the UG started to fluctuate a bit last week (up to 227 at stops/back down to 197-204 at cruising speeds). I initially suspected the heater core since it was the first time the heat has been blasted, but I later noticed a slight leak near the water pump. I traced the leak up the timing cover just to the right of the water pump. While removing the bolts for the water pump, coolant poured out of the lower right bolt for about a minute or so (this was one of three longer 11mm bolts, the others were a bit shorter and 10mm). This was after I had removed the lower radiator hose to drain it. Is this common or is it possible that there are issues behind the timing cover? The water pump itself seems to be ok, shaft has no play and the propeller spins smoothly with little resistance. Based on a conversation with DM, my viscous fan clutch is definitely shot as I was able to turn it by hand about a quarter turn when cold and nearly a full rotation while hot.

There also appears to be an oil leak, see pool of oil at top of timing cover. I tightened the exterior valve covers last month which stopped oil from leaking on my garage floor. I'm hoping this is some residual from that. I'm really hoping to avoid pulling the timing cover, but there may be no way around it. My parts list so far: wp gasket, motorad 439-180, Serpentine Belt, new coolant cap, D1 Fan & New Clutch kit. To be continued.......

I have attached pictures for reference:




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Looks like you valley pan gasket may be leaking, a bad fan clutch can make a water pump crap out and putting a new one on can also kill a old water pump.

The oil puddling up there could be from valve covers but it puddles the more from a valley pan leak. 227 is pretty high temp for this engine and if that did not warp your heads you could consider yourself pretty lucky in my opinion.


As for the water pouring out when you loosened the bolts yeah that's going to happen.

 

Thanks, I'm starting to also consider pulling the heads to inspect and replace all associated gaskets just in case.

 

That top right corner must be a weak spot. I am having to change my timing cover seal as well for a leak in the exact same spot. No other issues, no overheating but a good steady leak when running.


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Updated RoverParts.com list: Timing Chain Kit, Thermostat PEL500110, Oil pickup O-ring and Intake Manifold Valley Gasket. I will be searching locally for a good used Fan Clutch Assembly. Still haven't inspected for head gasket failure, but I'm hoping they are intact and will hold up until Spring.

 

did you get an oil pan gasket kit and a front crankshaft seal? you need to drop the oil pan to get the front cover off.

also some of the bolts go into the water jacket which is why the rave telles you to use sealer on certian bolts.

ps. I would leave the heads for now unless you know there is a problem. nothing you are doing now will have to be removed if the heads have to be done later

 

Thanks, the timing chain kit includes the oil pan gasket and front seal. Appreciate the tip in reference to the sealant on the bolts, I have yet to read the complete installation procedure. I have however identified the placement of the longer bolts.

 

an easy way in the future is to lay the gasket on a piece of cardboard and spray it with a lite coat of sealer then push the bolts threw the holes in the outline.

 

Finally tore down my Disco and ready for reassembly and have issues with my parts. I nor the assistant who helped me with my parts list thought to add valley pan end seals and there is a tear in my timing cover gasket. I was hoping to have it back on the road this weekend but look like its on hold another week. Well, unless Atlantic British decides to comp overnight delivery (hoping & praying)!

 

Finally got all of my parts in and put some serious time into my D2. The experience was definitely worth doing it myself. I anointed my hands with Holy Oil and worked on it straight 19 hours. A lot of time was used referencing the RAVE and ensuring I lay all the removed parts out strategically for re-installation. Also only used hand tools. All of the breaking bolts and ratcheting was a good work out.

End result, a happy D2 running consistent 183/185 while cruising and up to 196 sitting in traffic (it was 77 degrees out). More importantly, no leaks from any of the gaskets I installed.

Next up, replace the front prop shaft. It appears to have been replaced with a factory unit.

Thanks to all of those that provided info and those that asked questions that were related to my issues.