bleed or not to bleed?..some posts say yes/no....i have added some more coolant and am now unsure of what to do ...id rather not bleed the line if i dont have to only because as i mentioned, i am by no means a wrench....now that i have added more coolant should i drive the truck for a bit and see what happens to the coolant level/temp gauge? im not just not sure what the next step is...thanks

 

you really should bleed the system, go to our "write ups " section......easy but detailed thread on bleeding a D2 cooling system. IF you decide not to.......don't drive anywhere yet. You could start it up and let it idle and come up to temp with the heater on....if you have heat , thats a good sign but no guarantee that the system is bled completely.
there is a least a small chance that you have leak somewhere and that is the reason for your current situation.........if it leaks enough you can overheat the engine and cause major damage. take your time...you can do this !!

 

It is time you do your home work and sit on the passenger side while some one else drives it. Yes, it can be in the door but that is unusual. If it is not there then it is a plugged a/c drain,

 

And, to chime in even more clearly with everyone else: your truck has an engine with aluminum block and heads: if you overheat it too badly *just once*, you can crack the block or warp the heads -- both very expensive repairs.

 

ok- still confused as to what i should be doing. I have put more coolant in the reservoir since it was low. I drove it a bit and still am getting the 'water' rushing noise as i turn and/or accelarate. The heat works fine and my temp gauge is dead center. What does bleeding the coolant fluid do? Its not going to tell me where the leak is correct? Why wouldnt I just top off my coolant, drive for a few days keeping an eye on the temp gauge and then see if I have lost coolant to determine if there is a leak? Im not sure what bleeding does. Some have mentioned clogged A/C drains, but I am not sure how to check those. Help? Having said that, my coolant level was low which would lead me to think otherwise....I rely on this truck for work so im trying to resolve as quickly as possibly. Thanks

 

Careful. We weren't talking about A/C drains. We were talking about *door rainwater drains*.

The reason you should bleed your cooling system is threefold:

• The air in the bubbles is the actual contributor to corrosion.
• The air bubbles can compress, keeping coolant away from places it's supposed to go, and
• One of those places might be the coolant temp sensor, which can have several bad effects -- it not only feeds the gauge, but the ECU.

Go find the sticky posting in the Discovery model section, which contains a link to a step by step explanation of how to deal with this (as it's been suggested that you do a couple of other times upthread), and see if that writer explained it to you better than we seem to be doing.

 

dude, seamuspg, you need to take your truck to a good local independent mechanic.

have him bleed your coolant system, check your A/C drains, and do a pressure test.

if you overheat your engine, you will do serious ($$$$) damage to your truck.

 

Here is what you need to do.
Drive your truck to a mechanic and have him do the work.
He needs to top off the cooling system and then check for leaks.

When there is air in the system your heater wont work as well and there will be parts of the engine that overheat because they are not being cooled.
The engine coolant removes heat from the engine thus keeping it cool, if it over heats it blows up, simple as that.

There is no way you can get water trapped inside a car door, there are 2 big drains in the bottom of every car door in the world.
The window seals are not water tight, if they were you could not roll your windows down.
So every time it rains that water has to go somewhere, runs down the window, past the window seal and out the bottom of the door.

Bleeding the cooling system lets all of the air out.

But you need to take it to a shop, today.

 

I wasn't entirely sure, Spike; the door sill's not actually above the rated fording depth, is it? You wouldn't want water getting *into* the door in such circumstances.

I admit, I haven't looked at my doors, but RAVE mentions only a "Water shedder" on the tail door, and doesn't even show that.

 

It is possible to get water trapped in a car door. If your car had a rustproofing treatment the stuff used clogs the drains and water fills the door. Dirt can probably clog drains too. It's very funny to hear a water sound when closing a Caravan sliding door.