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Old Jan 1, 2014 | 02:13 PM
  #1  
FlyingZebra34's Avatar
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From: Aberdeen, Washington
Default Well I did a stupid

I went and broke one of the nuts that is welded to the frame that you bolt the cross arm thing on that is right under that cats, not the one under the t case.

Anyone have this issue and know of a way around it??
 
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Old Jan 1, 2014 | 02:36 PM
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You mean one of these in the last picture on this link www.discovery2.co.uk / Transfer Box Oil change , to the left of the blue bottle cap? I'm not sure but there appears to be 4 bolts and nuts but I'm not sure whether this cross member is cosmetic or really structural. You may be able enlarge the slot in the corner and feed in a new nut and glue into place with Araldite on a small steel plate but you will need to get a flat ring spanner http://www.google.fr/imgres?imgurl=h...QEwBg&dur=1280 through the enlarged gap to hold it when you tighten up the bolt.

Tip: Always soak chassis and rusty nuts/bolts in release oil/fluid a few hours before you work on them otherwise you can end up in the s***. https://www.google.fr/search?q=plusg...E6Ok0QXG-4GIDQ

Brake fluid works fine if they aren't too rusty but you need to wash it off afterwards.
 

Last edited by OffroadFrance; Jan 1, 2014 at 02:44 PM.
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Old Jan 1, 2014 | 02:37 PM
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Are you talking about the box tubing frame cross brace?
If so mines been removed for 6 years, since my lift.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2014 | 03:12 PM
  #4  
FlyingZebra34's Avatar
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Originally Posted by OffroadFrance
You mean one of these in the last picture on this link www.discovery2.co.uk / Transfer Box Oil change , to the left of the blue bottle cap? I'm not sure but there appears to be 4 bolts and nuts but I'm not sure whether this cross member is cosmetic or really structural. You may be able enlarge the slot in the corner and feed in a new nut and glue into place with Araldite on a small steel plate but you will need to get a flat ring spanner Résultats Google Recherche d'images correspondant à http://2.imimg.com/data2/WU/PR/MY-3750541/flat-ring-spanner-double-ended-250x250.gif through the enlarged gap to hold it when you tighten up the bolt.

Tip: Always soak chassis and rusty nuts/bolts in release oil/fluid a few hours before you work on them otherwise you can end up in the s***. https://www.google.fr/search?q=plusg...E6Ok0QXG-4GIDQ

Brake fluid works fine if they aren't too rusty but you need to wash it off afterwards.
Yes it's the one that's closer to the front of the truck. I guess I have my work cut out for me again

Also, is that a straight pipe??
 
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Old Jan 1, 2014 | 03:13 PM
  #5  
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From: Aberdeen, Washington
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Originally Posted by BackInA88
Are you talking about the box tubing frame cross brace?
If so mines been removed for 6 years, since my lift.
I'd like to keep it on, it's saved me from rocks a few times... I just can't get it off now haha.

Glad to know it isn't too important.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2014 | 04:59 AM
  #6  
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Mudding
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From: Troy Michigan
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With the lift my drive shaft would hit it if I drooped the right front tire. The rig has done a lot of trails and its never been a problem.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2014 | 05:42 AM
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Yep, that's a straight through stainless steel exhaust pipe on a D2 TD5. 'Naughty but nice' but in most countries they never check what the exhaust noise is producing in dba's and rarely check out emissions on a diesel (too complicated) and it doesn't actually effect emissions. In europe we take off the egr valves or blank them as they ruin the engine once it's older and also cost a fortune to replace($250-$300) because they clag up with exhaust rubbish and stop working, particularly on diesel. They also ruin fuel consumption and they certainly don't save the world from carbon emissions. It was another EU edict from Brussels by the numbskulls.

We also fit a decat pipe like this PM420 | Stainless Steel DeCat Pipe - TD5 Def and Disco with flexi to reduce back pressures which also increases bhp and decreases fuel consumption and then saves buying a new cat/filter.

www.discovery2.co.uk /workshop - EGR removal

In summary, a decat pipe with a straight through exhaust and no egr valve with a performance air filter (optional) can gain you up to another >15 bhp and up to another >10 mpg. Cheap tuning and better economy without even 'tweeking' the engine or ECU.
 
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