I took off the engine shroud below the engine so I could more easily see the suspected from crankseal lead, and I notice a large bolk right next to the oil filter housing that wasn't completely seated. I attached a pict. Does anyone know what it does, and if it should be seated, what Torque?

(as you can see from the pict, the motor is getting a good leak up front there, so I am planning on fixing the front crank seal, water pump, oil pump. Possibly the timing chain too, but not sure on that one... any thoughts on that?) Also, in looking at it, it appears the front of the timing cover actually mates to the oil pan... any issues with causing more leaks by pulling the timing cover off?

Thanks!

 

I think that is a bolt plug that the 2000-2002's had oil cooler lines routed to the front cover.
On 2003-04 models they did away with the engine oil cooler and only left the transmission cooler. Just tighten that bolt up, it can work loose over time. Look for another one similar bolt higher up too, on the passenger side. Its where I mounted my after market oil pressure guage.

If you are going to remove the front cover. You have to remove the oil pan. There are 2 studs on the front cover that go through the oil pan. So basically you cannot pull the front cover away from the engine until the oil pan is removed. Sucks!

 

That does suck... fair enough... thanks for the info though... anything else I want to get at while I have the oil pan off... I will clean out any gunk thats in the screen on the oil pick up, but didn't know if there was anything else I should do while there?

 

You'll probably find a lot of RTV sealant in your oil pan. Nothing to be worried about. I do recommend that you replace the timing chain while you are there. Takes no time really. My truck has a little over 80,000 miles and timing chain had a lot of play.
Also order new "O" ring for oil pickup and cam positioning sensor. If you do not replace the little "O" ring on the oil pickup (which you have to remove in order to remove front engine cover) once you put everything back together and that old "O" ring does not seal properly, you will lose oil pressure.

That's all I can recommend. Also mark where each bolt goes on the front engine cover because some of them are longer than the others and if you mix them up, you can crack your engine cover.

 

If your going to clean the oil pan. Get a gallon of simple green let your oil pan soak over night in your utility sink. Then powerwash it super clean. I didnt find any RTV in mine b/c i think it was the first time it was removed. Label the order of bolts on the oil pan according to the RAVE manuals specs with a Sharpie for retorquing order. If I remember correctly 22nm final torque on each bolt. 2 sets of wheels ramps are a bounus + a 2" lift makes it really easy to work on. Here is a crazy video when I did it last winter....to change out my crankshaft seal...and the oil pan gasket

Pressure washing Land Rover Discovery oil Pan - YouTube

 

you will have to remove the front frame cross member 8 bolts, and have a jick handy.
I found the higher I could get the body the easier the pan came out. Also the rave is incorrect on the bolt count, i think it say 14 bolts and there are really 16. What ever it says there are 2 more bolts than the rave tells you.

 

I could not get the cross member unbolted. IT IS A PITA!!!!! I ended up removing the "rear" tierod shaft and it came out super easy. I just removed the passanger side and ended up swinging it around the a bit. Much easier that shiering off the bolts from the cross member.

 

thats called a track rod

 

And, while you have the cover off, replace your oil pump with a new kit, they have a very high failure rate, might as well protect your self. Also be careful where you buy your parts, there are a lot of parts coming in from China and other countries that are of the poorest quality, buy only US, UK or German made pumps, gear sets and water pumps.

 

Make sure to line up your timing marks BEFORE you take the chain and gears off...

I just did mine a few weeks ago...

I applied sealer, very thin amount rubbed on by my finger to the timing cover, and then applied the gasket. I then applied another very thin coat to the back of the gasket and put the cover on the motor.

There are 4 places on the pan gasket that need to be gunked up with RTV. If you buy a decent kit there should be a page of instruction to explain this.

Its been a month or so and I still have no leaks or issues there.

Timing went pretty easy and I have picked up 2 MPG with the new gaskets and timing gears.

I am thinking about doing the intake gaskets in spring just to do them.