Got around to fixing the intake air hose where the cheap plastic hose fitting to the idle air control valve hose snappedoff.

Used a 1/2" i.d. brass to 1/2" i.d. cpvc adapter (available at any home center in the plumbing aisle), a 1" O-ring (also available at most home centers in the plumbing aisle), a 1/2" i.d. female cpvc adapter (again, common plumbing part, can be had anywhere), and some clear latex based caulk. I got everything at Lowes this morning.

To proceed, cut the threaded portion off the female cpvc adapter to make the equivalent of a 1/2" i.d. npt nut. Using a file, file a groove or two around the circumference of the cpvc portion of the brass to cpvc adapter -- these grooves will function as hose barbs when you go to clamp the iacv hose onto it.

Slip a 1" o-ring over the male portion of the 1/2" brass male adapter and screw the adapterinto the hole in the intake air hose (where the cheap plastic iavc fitting broke off from -- it will be a tight fit, but it will thread in there). Coat the "nut" you just made inside and out with clear latex based caulk sealant and thread it onto the male threads of the brass fitting which is now inside the air intake hose. The caulk will help to seal the fitting as well as ensure the cpvc "nut" inside theintake air hose doesn't loosen up and get sucked into the engine. Tighten it up good and tight, smooth away any excess caulk, allow the caulk to dry and you are done -- you now have a bullet proof fitting on the intake air hose that you can clamp the idle air control valve hose to.

The cpvc is good with heat, so it should be OK there in the intake hose. I used clear latex based caulk instead of a silicone based sealant as I have been told that even the silicone "vapors" from any silicone sealant getting into the intake will screw up the cats.

Total time to make the repair:about 10 minutes.

I have a few pictures if anyone can tell me how to upload pictures without getting a "file too big" message (the files are only about 30k so I don't know why I can't upload them).

Cheers.

 

 

I was able to just use a lot of force and push it through from the back.

 

super glue and clamp, and it went back together for me.
didn't work as well for the air filter box top clamps though.

 

Cool, yea after I "fixed" it 1 time with just RTV it came off.
After pushing it through the inside I actually feel the repair is
better then the original design.

Maybe the should just make them that way...

Selvol

 

holy crap this is the first GOOD luck i've had with my rover since i bought it, that photo is so well done. this is exactly what happened to me last night when taking a look at my t-body to see if i should try and clean it. when i reconnected the air intake hose it went together pretty well but i would love to reseal it. i drove it around a ton after it happened and it has been fine. about 200 miles home today, no trouble thankfully.

 

As in the digram, I believe there is no need for the 3mm slits to be.

Just push it through as jafir states.


SElvol

 

Open your picture with paint then click tools and stretch and skew. Reduce the percentage to 50 close and save

 

I'm curious if a leak/tear at this section of the air intake would cause any issues with fuel/air mixture and thus engine misfires? Maybe additional air is being sucked into the system and the ecu is make alterations to the fuel mixture to compensate for the extra air... very curious indeed.

 

Spray some carb spray on it & if the idle changes = it's leaking. If it doesn't change you're okay. I had to repair that connection on an 02 I had and I simply inserted it in thru the back as mentioned above and used a very small amount of black RTV and then attached the rubber hose very snug so it couldn't move in/out. Then whenever I needed to remove the intake I always removed the rubber hose at the IAC vs at the intake. I've done that ever since and I've never broken another intake hose.