Thanks.

So going with 4.2 ohms as nominal.

Yeah, I think that it must be the clutch plate then, and not the coil.

BTW, at the risk of a 101 circuit design lecture, there is another failure mode on a coil other than an open circuit: lower resistance and higher drawn current because of a short.

Most coils are made of a winding of cheap thin lacquer (as in paint) coated copper. The lacquer can wear/thru and fail, causing a short to an adjacent winding in the coil rather than an open, shortening the overall length of the winding and reducing the resistance of the coil. And depending on where this short happens, it could result in part of the coil being bypassed and weaker or dead, resulting in an inconsistent inductance pattern.

Further, given V=I*R, if V stays the same and R goes down, then I goes up, and more current can blow a fuse or fry a relay.

I know this from personal experience on a 924S I have as the coil resistance dropped from a nominal 12 ohms to 6 ohms because of an internal coil short, causing more current to run thru the energizing circuit and frying the "AC amplifier", basically a really complicated and expensive (and stupid -- the English have no monopoly on poor electrical design) relay. I fried three of those AC amplifiers -- expensive because they don't make them anymore, and they are getting rare to find as this resistance drop eventually happens on all AC compressor coils on all those cars -- before figuring it out.

 

BTW, Extinct, I thought I had solved my loss-of-power and stalling issue by fixing the vacuum leak at the EVAP purge valve-to-intake manifold elbow, but apparently I still have an issue.

As I've renewed most everything else (include a new MAF sensor to replace the other new one), I've ordered a new TPS as the RAV seems to indicate that failure of that component could cause the symptoms I am seeing.

And I'll smoke test it again while waiting for the TPS.

Only thing left after that is the CMP sensor, which could a bitch to get at, depending upon how easy or hard it is to get the crank pulley off (when my son did the rebuild 6-7 years ago, it slide off smooth as butter and I am sure he put grease or anti-seize on it before putting it back on).

Can the camshaft sensor cause these kinds of problems? The Forum seems to be a bit split on this.

 

Cam sensor and TPS sensor almost never fail. 18 trucks and I have never had a cmp fail, one bad TPS. CMP is not bad to get to.

 

Good data set on TPS and CMP, thanks for sharing that.

I smoke tested again and found another leak at the throttle body shaft. I think this second leak was overwhelmed by smoke from the bigger leak I found on the other side of the throttle body at the purge valve connector.

It's clearly visible at 5psi of positive pressure and even more visible when the shaft is loaded laterally as it would be when the accelerator cable has tension.

Can you rebuild the throttle body (specifically, the bushing/seal on the shaft) or should I just pick up a new, used throttle body?

 

How many miles does the truck have? I have never heard of a throttle body wearing out and I have two with over 225k on them. Should be able to get a used TB for next to nothing since they never wear out.

 

I used to have 50 or more spare TB's in my parts bin back in the day. Those puppies were replaced as entire units when the TBH Plate leaked when they were just a few years old. They had different revision #'s on them. Eventually LR started stocking just the TBH Plates so later on those were simply replaced vs the entire unit.

There is no seal that I'm aware of on the shaft itself. Austin Roverworks probably has some spare TB's laying around from parts cars or try LKQ or Wrench A Part.

 

50? Wow! Wish Austin was closer to Beaumont.

There are no D2s with engines still in them currently lying in the yards of the recyclers around Austin, so I ordered a relatively low mileage one from LKQ on eBay.

Bit-by-bit I am going to have a fully renewed D2 by the time I am done.

What I am going thru reminds me of that Johnny Cash song "One Piece At A Time" about building a Cadillac.

 

Really I had a friend just go by a Wrench A Part (Belton Location) and there were several D2's from 00-04 and even a 00 P38. He said they were mostly all there minus the usual bits n pieces that vanish quickly if in good shape. I come up to Austin/Taylor often to see my LR buddy and help him on some of his LR jobs.

AC Clutch wise you need to remove the outer plate and inspect it's condition. Then you could hit the Belton yard, pick n choose which outer plate looks good (make sure to keep the spacer which goes with it). If your inside pulley surface looks good you should be able to just install the outer. If not 2 C-Clips and you can remove the entire clutch pulley. I highly doubt the electrical part is INOP but if you remove the pulley you'll be staring right at the clutch coil as well. 10mm, strap wrench, and a decent C-Clip tool and it should come right off.

 

I think I've met the guy you mentioned in Taylor at the Wrench-a-Part in Dell Valley. We once politely jointly scavenged a recently arrived D2 there :-)

And I know the D2s in Belton, thought the engines had been puled in them.

While I was under the hood replacing the TPS today, ran the engine and noticed that the clutch seems a bit slower than the other pulleys and wobbly as well. So I finally pulled the cover off the belt and look what I found -- no bolt holding the compressor clutch onto the compressor shaft spline . No wonder it was making such a racket and not fully engaging at it should have. How often does that happen. I wonder if the spines on the shaft are stripped? (I put the white marks on it with nail polish while the cover was still on in order to be able to see whether it was engaging.).

This explains a lot. Any idea as to the size of that bolt? M6 x 1.25? x 10mm?

 

Should be M8x1.25 30mm long and I'd put some blue loctite on it.