Gotcha, OKDiscoGuy. My bad, then. Thought the inspection was akin to LR's "certified" inspection. My Saab mechanic performed thorough inspection on last Saab that I bought used, and provided me with detailed list of fix it yesterday/fix it today/fix it tomorrow items. Guess I thought this would be the same kinda deal. I assume the wires he used are okay, but I couldn't find the specs online. I'm definitely using DiscoMike's list as a guide for the remainder of the service job. I won't touch bleeding the brakes or doing the transmission service. Might go for some of the easier stuff, though.

 

I know what you mean. I would expect the same thing from a $90 inspection. Is this guy a regular Rover guy? Sounds like you may want to persue other mechanics in the area. You are getting close to dealer prices, but it might just be your area. My local guy did mine for free, but he just wanted the return business...

 

Not sure what LR Dallas, Frisco or Fort Worth rates are, but I've been told to expect about $1,150.00 for 60K service. This is an indy Rover shop in Fort Worth -- owner was service manager at Autobahn Fort Worth (Land Rover, Jaguar, BMW, Porsche, Volvo and VW dealer) for I think 13 years. Been in business about five years or so. I really don't know what average prices are. I'm used to what most consider "high" repair costs due to owning Saabs for 20+ years (which I why I performed a lot of my own repairs). Once I get my feet wet I will have a better idea of what I consider a fair price for work performed. In the meantime, I guess I should go ahead an invest is some new Rover tools and extra parts to have on hand.

 

Brake bleeding is one of the easiest things you can do, so don't be intimidated by it. Get yourself one of these: http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w..._391590_391590

And just make sure to use DOT 4 fluid, being careful to keep topping up the reservoir while you bleed the systemso it doesn't suck air.

Start with the wheel farthest from the master cylinder (eg. right rear), loosen the bleed screw and attach the line from the bleeder tool. Squeeze the trigger until thefluid reservoiris just about empty (but not empty!), top it off with new fluid and go back and squeeze the trigger until fresh, clean fluid comes through the line. Tighten the bleed screw before removing the line from the bleeding screw. Then move to the next closest wheel to the master cylinder, etc. Piece of cake.

Dave

 

When you buy a used rover, replace everything that could need replacing. I did the 60K service at about 40K and needed most of it, people who own during warranty just don't do maintenance so you end up buying a big deferred maintenance job. If you don't change and inspect every fluid in the vehicle you will miss other issues like bad seals or clogged breathers. (in fact check every seal and hub, and blow out every tube and breather you can, including the A/C drain tubes, sunroof drain tubes, and axle breather tubes. and you'll probably eliminate at least one future headache)